will the apexi power fc eliminate the maf?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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leesredgt
Posts: 3945
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Car: 1992 Toyota MR2 N/A
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo

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rb25drag wrote:Currently im running the MAF on the filter side of the turbo. Seems to work fine. But im eliminating the MAFS, Knock sensors, TPS, and all that B.S with the Propane setup.

leesredgt- Add up all those prices, from the MAFS to the Stand alone unit just to tune with. There jacking up the prices on all that, Thats just to tune with, Now add all the injectors, fuel rail, throttle body, ETC along with that and your looking into the 3,000$ + range not counting tune. If you got the money thats cool but im not going to work another year to save 3,000 just to get all that crap, Switching over to propane is going to cost me less than 1000$ and the power is limited to my turbo size. There is no maps, MAFS, or anything. Propane is simple and EASY to tune.

I might be coming up with a Cheaper alternative to getting that power. So keep in touch with me, We are starting the propane coversion beginning of march.
Let me know how that turns out i wouldnt mind seeing that, and learning how it works, and i already like the sound of it being 2000 dollars cheaper.


rb25drag
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.

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Next time you close to my town hit me up! I would like to talk with you.

Mute
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Ok, just thought i'd throw in some info for some of you guys who may be able to use the information straight for the horse's mouth.Some may know me on here as that dude that keeps posting about those videos (RB build DVD still in production) and a couple of you may know me from my job as Marketing and Sales for Apex Integration Inc. So there is my qualifications real fast before anyone sets out to digitally crucify me for what they think are my opinions and not facts.

Power FC for the RB25 for some reason or another was never made in a D-Jetro (MAP) format, only L-Jetro (MAF) (I am working with my boss to convince Japan to make an rb25 D-jetro a reality for the future)

The Apex Power FC however did come in D-Jetro format for the RB26.

Now a group of Apex employees went to the motherland for this year's Auto Salon, what they brought back was a little easter egg for those of you with enough know how to make it happen. The fact that an RB26 D-Jetro box can be made to work as a D-Jetro system for an RB25. The only catch is, none of us here have done it, tried it, or verified it, but according to Japan, it's a fact. Now get to work RB boys and girls and figure it out.

Here's the part where you all get annoyed and upset. The RB box though NOT DISCONTINUED is still very very hard to get. Whether it's for a 25, 26, or luck be with you, a 20 (those never come through). There is a reason for this, the company sourced in Japan which was making a few of the internal chips discontinued production due to it being old tech, as a result, Japan has been slowly sourcing other companies to obtain the same type of chips, however the technology has actually moved forward and a full reprogram of the system would also have to take place. As our company had begun to focus primarily on new product development, the RB box has been put on temporary back-burner status as a result, but not dumped in any way. Might be 6 months, could be a year, but it will be back in full production.

I know that went beyond the D-jetro, L-jetro question, but thought I'd put it out there to get the word out on whats going on.

Feel free to email me ([email protected]) with any questions or call the Apex office at 714.685.5700.

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leesredgt
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rb25drag wrote:Next time you close to my town hit me up! I would like to talk with you.
For sure man ill let you know when im around that area.

Yellow4g63
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91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
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Mute wrote:Ok, just thought i'd throw in some info for some of you guys who may be able to use the information straight for the horse's mouth.Some may know me on here as that dude that keeps posting about those videos (RB build DVD still in production) and a couple of you may know me from my job as Marketing and Sales for Apex Integration Inc. So there is my qualifications real fast before anyone sets out to digitally crucify me for what they think are my opinions and not facts.

Power FC for the RB25 for some reason or another was never made in a D-Jetro (MAP) format, only L-Jetro (MAF) (I am working with my boss to convince Japan to make an rb25 D-jetro a reality for the future)

The Apex Power FC however did come in D-Jetro format for the RB26.

Now a group of Apex employees went to the motherland for this year's Auto Salon, what they brought back was a little easter egg for those of you with enough know how to make it happen. The fact that an RB26 D-Jetro box can be made to work as a D-Jetro system for an RB25. The only catch is, none of us here have done it, tried it, or verified it, but according to Japan, it's a fact. Now get to work RB boys and girls and figure it out.

Here's the part where you all get annoyed and upset. The RB box though NOT DISCONTINUED is still very very hard to get. Whether it's for a 25, 26, or luck be with you, a 20 (those never come through). There is a reason for this, the company sourced in Japan which was making a few of the internal chips discontinued production due to it being old tech, as a result, Japan has been slowly sourcing other companies to obtain the same type of chips, however the technology has actually moved forward and a full reprogram of the system would also have to take place. As our company had begun to focus primarily on new product development, the RB box has been put on temporary back-burner status as a result, but not dumped in any way. Might be 6 months, could be a year, but it will be back in full production.

I know that went beyond the D-jetro, L-jetro question, but thought I'd put it out there to get the word out on whats going on.

Feel free to email me ([email protected]) with any questions or call the Apex office at 714.685.5700.
They had the PFCs for the 20's. AP made them.

Ljettro PFC's are really over priced crap. unless you have a 25 then your stuck with that or more. 20/26 realtime ECU tuning is way cheaper.

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matafied
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i know im jumping in here late lol but the only reason i had my maf their was because my ic piping was hooked to the tb and my turbo wasent hooked up so it was just metering the air going into my motor to start it for troubleshooting haha just had to clear that up,carry on carry on
leesredgt wrote:ok could i put the maf right after the turbo on the hot pipe like in the picture below and still use a power fc?also will any ordanairy cone filter go on the turbo?

REZAZ32
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Joined: Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:57 pm

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Awesome, thanks for all of your responses. I just got off of work and saw all of these replies. The RB thread sure isn't dead. Anyway, I think next time I'll have a little more rest and won't be trying to finish up some work late at night when I post.

So, I was relating pressure rise to Temperature, and if pressure goes up, temperature goes up as well, which does affect the MAF sensor (I did forget to explicitly relate them together). For the Ideal gas law, you're right, when you are trying to measure it and quantify a value, you will never get the correct answer unless you are at STP, but for illustration purposes, it still works. If pressure goes up, then so will temperature. So I think if you were to go with a blow through setup, then your best bet would be, as you said, to put it as far away from the engine bay as possible. 500hp and 22psi isn't really the "high horsepower" level I was thinking of, based on my frame of reference (everyone's is different). I'm not saying it isn't a substantial amount of power, but running a MAP setup will allow for higher increases in power, without having to change many other things with the engine, such as bigger or multiple MAF sensors that are better at reading higher volumes. I guess with a blow through setup, you could potentially run a dual MAF sensor setup, but I'm sure it would be a task.

As for the turbulence thing, try to run your car with an open MAF sensor in the front of the engine. Turbulence will cause the MAF sensor to innacurately read MAF values, maybe not under idle, but try to drive around 60mph, then put your car in neutral, and see what the engine does. It will want to die because turbulent air is allowing some air to go in unmetered. If turbulence has nothing do with it, then put an air filter on the MAF sensor, and see what it does. You're car probably won't want to die now (granted all else is good with the motor). The MAF is grated to produce a more even lateral flow across the wire, not necessarily turbulence.

I will admit I suck at putting things together late at night, which is why you guys are around. Thanks for the info and any corrections. I'm always open to new information, and it seems like you guys are on it. Thanks again.

Darius
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Mute - Very informative post. I think eh? was illuding to the fact that you can use the RB26 D-jetro with the RB25 in his post up above.

REZAZ32 - That is true. You can't just run an open maf, but that is what the screen helps to do is evenly distribute air across the housing as well as provide a firm foreign object screen. However, you CAN run an air filter directly in front of your maf as long as it has a cone shaped inlet like the Apexi or some others. The filter smoothes out the flow as it enters the maf housing. If it doesn't have that, then trouble can arise from turbulence.

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shally2186
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Darius wrote:he didn't just hook up a laptop and was able to change it to MAP. The RB26 PFC can be used on the RB25 if you do some rewiring and make sure all the sensors are connecting into the ECU in the right places. Plus you have to buy separate MAP sensor(s) that will actually send data to the ECU.

I think what you are going for is a Greddy IM and you're wondering how the MAF sensor works with that. In that case, people typically run the MAF in a blow-thru setup where the MAF is below the battery tray in the cold pipe. You can run a MAF in front of the turbo and get the same result, but the only difference is you won't be able to vent your blow off valve to atmosphere for that supa hawt fnf sound. There are ways to actually run the BOV to atmosphere, but you have to get the settings right or it will run rich and bog when you let off the gas under boost.
my car is bog'n when i stop,and has a hick-up when im shifting hard. would my MAF or BOV be the cause of this? i have my MAF on the intake of my turbo and my BOV open to the atmosphere on my hot pipe..

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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to run a 26 pfc on a 25 is very easy...doesnt take much work but if you're not mechanicaly inclined or are good with wiring its proly not a good idea.i ran a 25pfc on my 20 for quite a while there before i had issues with it, just had to swap a few wires to make it happen.

Mute
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Never said we didnt have the RB20 boxes, just we rarely come across any in the US office.

Swappedandboosted
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ive been down this road. Run the Maf and get your inlet air from down low. love it.


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