Will it be safe to drive her back home after motor break in?

[240sxvaj]

ok so the guy who built my motor installed my racing cam shaft wrong by putting the intake on the exhaust side and now i have to bring it back to him to redo it because it wouldn't start. after he swap the cam shafts around i will break in the motor. his shop is about 1 hour 30 minutes away from my house or longer. im gonna be towing the car to his shop friday and picking up the car saturday but then was wondering instead of renting the u-haul again to tow it back home would it be safe for me to drive her home or should i just tow it again?

im sure i can driver her back home but then since its a freshly built motor it just doesnt feel safe to me.

have anyone done this before or know if it would be ok?

LMK!

Thanks!

[Ekinchheng]

You could drive it home but I would make sure everything is safe before you take it out of the road (No leaks,overheating,etc) If its a freshly build motor and you haven't driven it, I would warm up the engine and drive it around the block a couple times and change the oil. That way there won't be no metal shaving left over from the rebuild. Then you should be safe driving it home. Just try not to stay a a certain rpm and your good.

[240sxvaj]

You could drive it home but I would make sure everything is safe before you take it out of the road (No leaks,overheating,etc) If its a freshly build motor and you haven't driven it, I would warm up the engine and drive it around the block a couple times and change the oil. That way there won't be no metal shaving left over from the rebuild. Then you should be safe driving it home. Just try not to stay a a certain rpm and your good.

yea i know the break in procedure and thanks for reminding me about keeping my RPM moving.

thanks!

anything else from others?

[Samurai C]

red line ever gear on the way home

your mechanic should be test driving it befor he hands it over. i test drive the motors i install for almost a day to make sure there are no problems. im sure you will be fine and like Ekinchheng said make sure you change your oil at like 500 to 1000 miles on the new motor

can i ask what cams you put in im looking to upgrade. i was looking at the BC stage 2 or JWT

[240sxvaj]

red line ever gear on the way home

your mechanic should be test driving it befor he hands it over. i test drive the motors i install for almost a day to make sure there are no problems. im sure you will be fine and like Ekinchheng said make sure you change your oil at like 500 to 1000 miles on the new motor

can i ask what cams you put in im looking to upgrade. i was looking at the BC stage 2 or JWT

hahaha hummmmmm maybe i should lol!my mechanic has a different way of breaking the motor in and i go by the MOTO MAN way.

i was told first 10 minutes of first start up and then oil change.first 20 miles and then oil change and then continue til i think it was 250 or 500 miles and then oil change and then from there on change it the normal way rite?

i have BC stage 2 cam shaft

[480sx]

I personally wouldnt do this for a few reasons.

1- You want to do a few oil changes in the first 100 miles, and with your 1:30 hour road trip thats not gona happen.

2- Iv always heard you want to heat cycle your engine a few times to break in the bores and everything else. Short trips, bursts of mid range hard accel and decel, then fully cool down and repeat.

3- Things can fail on a new motor.. You never know, trusting it on a long road trip for starters isnt the best idea.

Id just tow it man, with the cash you just dropped on the motor there is no reason not to. You would probably get away with driving it, im just really picky when it comes to breaking motors in.

[sunnys14]

I drove my car 15 mins after I started it up for the first time. Just let it idle for a little while to check for oil and coolant leaks. After that it took it on the road. Changed my oil about 100 miles later.

10,000 miles later it's still good as new

[Ekinchheng]

Hey sunny I've seen your thread when you talked about the rb flywheel and 350z clutch I was wondering what you use for the throw out bearing?

[240sxvaj]

I drove my car 15 mins after I started it up for the first time. Just let it idle for a little while to check for oil and coolant leaks. After that it took it on the road. Changed my oil about 100 miles later.

10,000 miles later it's still good as new

One problem, car is running rich asss helll!. black smoke and kind of low idle, little lopie idle im guessin maybe it's the BC 264 cams. Enthalpy ecu, 740cc nismo injectors. stock t25 from sr(upgrading after break-in).

DOnt know if i should start a new thread.

[480sx]

WBO2 sensor confirmed?

Running a new motor rich is really, really bad. The rings arnt sealed and the excess fuel will pollute your oil in a quickness which will ruin your motor. I know from personal experience.. Dont drive the thing until you lean it out.

[sunnys14]

Do you have an SAFC? If so, use it to lean out.

Check for boost leaks and such. You should have broke it in NA so it's less problems to look for while breaking it in.

[sunnys14]

Hey sunny I've seen your thread when you talked about the rb flywheel and 350z clutch I was wondering what you use for the throw out bearing?

I used the 350z throw out bearing.

[240sxvaj]

WBO2 sensor confirmed?

Running a new motor rich is really, really bad. The rings arnt sealed and the excess fuel will pollute your oil in a quickness which will ruin your motor. I know from personal experience.. Dont drive the thing until you lean it out.

I have an innovate lc-1/xd16 wideband, BUT havent install. so i have to get it installed. and i changed oil and clean out spark plugs, the car was only turned on and not driven yet. I do have afcneo hooked up but i guess i'll wait for the wideband before i start messing with it.

i was thinking about breaking it in n/a but i dont have stock injectors and dont have stock ecu. too many things that i am missing.

thanks for the help guys. i'll let you guys know how it goes.

[sunnys14]

No need to run stock injectors or stock ECU while NA.

I ran NA with Sard 850cc's, z32 maf and enthalpy ECU for about a month with no problems.

[240sxvaj]

No need to run stock injectors or stock ECU while NA.

I ran NA with Sard 850cc's, z32 maf and enthalpy ECU for about a month with no problems.

ok so i did the oil change and lean it.

i think i have a Vacum leak because my vac gauge is reading 10 something so imma check that out and see i really do have a VAC leak

i might be running stock again and then turbocharging it later on but then its too much work.

i might upgrade to top mount turbo too but then wanted to break it in with the bottom mount i have

i'll let you know how the car comes out

Thanks!

[240sxvaj]

new problem now

started up the car and check for leaks etc and there was none.

no vacum leak, FPR gauge was reading fine when it was fully warmed upi smell little gas from exhaust but then later one didnt smell anymore

drove the car to a stop and then the idle would go down to 500 and then come back up. did that a couple of times and then it diedafter that the car wouldnt start up

timing is correct and i know forsure isnt off.

what could it be?

[480sx]

You wont get good vac until the rings seat. Still, 10 is low, i had better than that with a fresh rebuild. SURE you dont have any vac leaks?

As far as your idle, problems, you got a VTA BOV? Try disconnecting your BOV and see if the problem is still there. Another thing that i have noticed from ka24 to ka24-t is that you have to bump up the IACV valve to have a higher idle than that of a N/A ka. I think the IACV system just doesnt work well with a turbo before it.

[240sxvaj]

Actually the car acted a little weird, my younger bro test drove it and i didnt get a chance to check the car since i'm away at school. The thing is it was around 10 for vac and today when he test drove the car, it was around 18 steady vac and steady fuel pressure around 36psi. idle was like normal on cold start and no black smoke(no sign of running rich) But then again still need to install the wideband. just dont understand if it's bad ecu or something else. the z32 maf is about 13inches away from turbo, when the car warmed up he put it to 20 for timing and it seemed to idle really really good. and then after it died it wouldnt start anymore as if something was disconnected.

as of right now we are not in the process of break-in until wideband is installed.

DO you guys think afcneo is causing problem? 2in 2out setting for afcneo as of right now. do you guys think that's right? Enthalpy ecu was set for z32 maf so i think thats right?

[sunnys14]

1-12-23-34-45-5

It should all work out the same.

This is why I hate breaking in the motor while turbo, so many other things to worry about while breaking it in...

[240sxvaj]

1-12-23-34-45-5

It should all work out the same.

This is why I hate breaking in the motor while turbo, so many other things to worry about while breaking it in...

thanks sunny, i'll try to fix it one more time and then go back to stock, how did you break-in at higher(around 4k) rpm w/ bigg injectors when turbo is out. wouldnt that flood the motor since theres no turbo and ecu set the injectors to flow higher during boost 2.5k+ rpm? also how did you work around w/ z32 maf on pipe?(forget it i have greddy FMIC pipe that i can use w/ that z32 maf to throttle body ). hummm...i would have to find a cap to seal off the egr hole thats in my stock exhaust manifold. all my egr crapp are off so i hope it doesnt give me any prob.

[sunnys14]

thanks sunny, i'll try to fix it one more time and then go back to stock, how did you break-in at higher(around 4k) rpm w/ bigg injectors when turbo is out. wouldnt that flood the motor since theres no turbo and ecu set the injectors to flow higher during boost 2.5k+ rpm? also how did you work around w/ z32 maf on pipe?(forget it i have greddy FMIC pipe that i can use w/ that z32 maf to throttle body ). hummm...i would have to find a cap to seal off the egr hole thats in my stock exhaust manifold. all my egr crapp are off so i hope it doesnt give me any prob.

I beat the crap out of the motor while NA and no I did not flood the motor at high rpms.

The tune is MAF based so once you get additional airflow from the turbo, the maf senses it and adds fuel and adjusts timing accordingly. Since there is no turbo, no additional air is being sucked through the maf (besides normal NA airflow) hence no extra fuel is going to be added.

I ran like this for over a month (3000 miles) then I changed the oil and double checked things to get ready to swap over to turbo.

For the Z32 maf, I used a reducer to make it fit my AEM intake I used when I was NA. I just used a pipe plug to plug up the EGR hole on the exhaust manifold (I forgot the thread pitch)

[240sxvaj]

i am gonna put everything back to N/A and then run it like that for a while.