will an ECU or a tune of sorts be needed for 8 PSI

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emperor_lunchbox
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Like the title says, I plan on running about 8 PSI. Is an ECU or e manage necessary at that level of boost? Are there any timing issues at this level?Thanks.


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GEO
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lol.. details.. you running 8psi on one of those electric ebay battery powered supgerchargers or a t88 turbo?

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emperor_lunchbox
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sorry. I am debating a t3 super 60 or a t3/t04e 50 trim.I would like to have about 300-350 at the wheels ultimately. Im shooting for about 230 at 8 PSI. I was thinking about running an emanage ultimate, but not initially.

chrislis
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hey man i would highly suggest either an emanage or try and enthalpy ecu.

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virus77
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Id say if your into doing it yourself and see tuning as step you would like to take then get an ultimate emanage. If you want to get the car running right but dont care for tuning it yourself get an enthalpy ecu.

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emperor_lunchbox
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which would be more economical?I have found e mangae ultimates for $200-400.What does an enthalpy run?

1WheelWonder
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About 500 bucks. If I had to do it again I would go the tuned ecu route, instead of the SafcII and BTM route I took.

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emperor_lunchbox
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now, I am interested in purchasing a wideband, do either of these perform better than the other in that respect?

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Chezedik
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+1 for enthalpy, he will have 500 bux of my money, when the gov't gives it to me. Want to be turbo in a month.

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teddy
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+2 for enthalpy. His ecu's will save you a lot of time and hassle. His tunes are almost always spot on, and if they arent he typically sticks by his work and will fix it for at you no charge.

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emperor_lunchbox
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cool, as long as budget permits I will prolly go enthalpy.I am concerned with growth though. Will an enthalpy ECU allow me to tune after my budget grows. I don't want to keep paying $500 everythime I get a new part.

Joeygsxr
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+3 on the enthalpy ecu, just tell him exactly what parts you are plannig on using, and the tune he sends you is awesome, i have had my car running for a week so far with it, and i love it, i am even running an open dump on my BOV, and low throttle city driving is great no prob's, and i live in new york, so traffic can be a pain, and its been great so far, and retunes are fats and easy and very well priced

fabio420
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+4 for enthalpy. I have to say that having a retuned ecu is the best route. It has the car running smooth and the fuel consumption is great. However, if this is the first stage of a definetly multiple step processin engine upgrades, you might consider doing the tune of the ecu only when u get the final mods. until then run an SAFC or emanage. You'll have to do something in tuning for 230rwhp.(gonna have to use bigger injectors) I mean iether way, some other kind of reprogramable piggyback will be needed (or cheaper than retuning the ecu multiple times). I don't know if u got all that, cause I'm kinda lost too

scarboroughdub

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i would go the emanaga ultimate route. for the fact that you can make changes on the fly and not have to wait for a ecu shipment from enthalpy.

thats not to say he's bad because you are paying for r & d behind each tune that he sells, but i like to do things myself. so it would depend on you.

prersonally youll spend 500 on an enthalpy or around that price get an emanage ultimate and u have unlimited control options but with enthalpy you gotaa send back if changes are made.

enthalpy= trusted tunes

emanage = full control for your needs + self tuning + maf to map swap

pick which one your comfortable with.

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Chezedik
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I would still run enthalpy, and pay for the retune. It isn't full price, because he only has to adjust the tune a little.

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emperor_lunchbox
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I just got some 450cc DSM injectors from a GSX eclipse. Those should be good for some decent power. I think what I might do is get the ECU and get a retune later, I will most likely stay at my current power level until I get some more money for some really good components.

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david200095367
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+5 on the enthalpy ecu. i have it on my setup with a t3 super 60. i love the ecu!!

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sunnys14
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+6 for enthalpy... just cuz everyone else said so

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Edub1
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If you have a DOHC you should check out BikiRom. Much cheaper and it will give you controll over your tuning.

Once you increase boost you will want to dyno tune your car. By the way, the super 60 is only good to 300HP so If you plan on more, better go with the T3/T4.

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emperor_lunchbox
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what is the spool time on a t3/t04e 50 trim?I don't want too much lag, but I don't want to run out of steam at the top. What are the differences between a t3/to4e and to4b? besides housings. Thanks.

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Edub1
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I haven't used one but most say the T3/T04E has little lag. A super 60 is instant from what I understand.

The T04b is a different compressor. I think I made a post called "choosing a turbo" or something that explains how to read compressor maps. I hear the b is an older unit that is less efficient. If you plan of being much over 250HP you are going to want the T04E unless you want to pay huge P Diddy money for a GT series BB turbo.

I have a super 60 and a T04E. I'm planning on about 270HP as the absolute limit. If I don't sell the T04E before then I might just compair the two. There should be some brief lag with the T4 but they say it's not much.

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savatoge
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Edub1 wrote:I haven't used one but most say the T3/T04E has little lag. A super 60 is instant from what I understand.
T3/T04E's are pretty good as far as minimal lag is concerned.
Edub1 wrote:The T04b is a different compressor. I think I made a post called "choosing a turbo" or something that explains how to read compressor maps. I hear the b is an older unit that is less efficient.
This is true...I just looked at some plots I have done in the past, and when the stock KA24DE is concerned (ie stock cams, no substantial head work, compression close to stock, no juice, etc.) the T04B is a very poor choice. Depending on what the target boost is, you would most likely be off the map completely at certain RPM points (often in surge) and for the RPM points where you are on the map, you are in the lowest effeciency islands.

If you can provide some specific turbo specs that you are considering, I can compile some plots and post them.

As far as what to do on an 8 PSI setup, you can get away with running an SAFC and maybe retarding timing just a tad at idle. That way you will already have some timing pulled when the car is boosting at PSI. Not optimal, but safe. Definitely need to figure out what you're going to do for fuel delivery here though.

On the Enthalpy topic, if you have not done business with him in the past, ie you don't currently have an ECU and tune in your ride, it might be tough to get one. From some posts I have seen over on FA, it seems Scott has taken a full time job, which he is devoting a great deal of his time towards. During his off hours, he is prioritizing his time to fullfilling orders he had prior to taking the job and to helping retune those people who have already payed him money. I have been trying to contact him for over two weeks now and no response. Supposedly he is anwsering in the order in which he receives e-mails...

So if you can wait a long time, the Enthalpy ECU is best for your situation. If you can't, I'd look into getting a JWT ECU and fine tune with an SAFC. Or if you want to learn to tune yourself, I'd consider a BikiROM or PLMS type of setup...however this will require you to devote a great deal of time to learn...and learn...and learn some more...and might take more time and money than you are ready to devote to. Just have to figure out what your goal is and take steps towards reaching it.


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