Will a 17x10 +12 fit on an s13 front?

[a_ahmed]

As the title says. Will it fit? If not, what needs to be done. a 255/40/17 is the plan. maybe a 265 or 275 as well, but I am opting for 255 for now.

No doubt that'll be just fine on the rear, but I am wondering about the front. I want to run a 17x10 +12 on the front.

According to tirerack's offset calculator, and this is purely theoretical of course and probably not accurate hence the reason I'm asking. It says that if I had a 6" +45 rim (well I put in the stock rim sizes, I am not running stock rims, I'm running gtr 16" rims) and I jump to a 10" +12 that I'll be losing 18mm on the inside. This is all theory so I don't know.

Help me out guys.Edit/Delete Message

[AZhitman]

Well, the tire size will be fine, as I'm running 255/40 in front... It'll touch the inner fenderwell at full lock, but only if you're slammed.

As far as the wheel fitment, I think you'll be way too wide... I'm at 17x8, 35 offset, with a 10mm spacer, and flush.

[bone_stock_240]

it also says that the wheel will extend an extra 84 mm outward. since you are losing the 18 mm on the inside, if you have coils, it seems that you might have to run a spacer so it doesn't rub, so you are looking at the wheels extending outward between 94 - 104 mm over stock. I think that will look pretty ridiculous, because I had 7.5 + 32 with no spacer and I was pretty close to flush. So you will be sticking out another 50 - 60 mm from a flush position.

You would probably be better with going for an 8 inch wide wheel on the front. Sure you wouldnt be able to rotate your tires, but at least your steering wouldn't be messed up, and it wouldn't look like an RC car.

[a_ahmed]

Well I want some insane grip front and rear, for what I plan. I've decided to go LS1, I like NA power too much, so the rear will definetely need that sort of power and the front well, the way I drive and intend to drive it, definetely. I am not going to run lower than 255 up front. I might go with 315 or maybe even 335 in the rear... I have lightened the car by alot as well, about 120kg lighter (last time I calculated all the weight removed, it was at 90kg, so the 120 is an estimate since the stuff i did)... I will need that extra grip front and rear... as things stand now, i've lost traction with the lighter weight, but gained better response, turn in and acceleration/braking... but less grip.. although it may be due to the tires thread getting lower and lower as well.

I will run wide overfenders front and rear so how much it's going to stick out is not a problem for me. I want to make the track wider.

[bone_stock_240]

2 words for you. Scrub radius. There is no point in having all that power and traction if your steering becomes super unpredictable and jumpy under braking.

[Swedish Mike]

I plan 9" front and 10" rear on my S13, can´t see the reason to go 10" front.The german´s often use wider rims than tires to get that stretched look but I don´t know... All about taste.

[AZhitman]

How about getting the car built first, then you can plan on stuff like wide wheels.

300+ mm tires will cost more than the car is worth, and wno't help you put the power down much better.

[a_ahmed]

2 words for you. Scrub radius. There is no point in having all that power and traction if your steering becomes super unpredictable and jumpy under braking.

How would it become super unpredictable and jumpy under braking? Wouldn't wider tires make braking better for example have less chance of lock and have more surface to grip on to slow down better and not lock.

[Swedish Mike]

I´m confused. You say wider tires/wheels because the car lost grip after making it lighter? Something else must be wrong.

[bone_stock_240]

When cars have a higher scrub radius, then the steering becomes much more sensitive to braking inputs. Scrub radius is the distance from the centre of the contact patch of the tire, and the point where the steering axis line would contact the ground.

[sultan]

this won't really help but i test fit a 18x12 +0 wheel on the front of my s13, only needed about 2-3mm of spacing to clear the tanabe sustec pro ss coilovers.

whenever my aero gets here i'll be fitting 18x11 +0 up front, scrub radius and power steering be damned.

[AZhitman]

Sounds like you've made up your mind, so just do it.

There's a reason I never ask "Will this fit?" because I know I'm gonna try anyway.

Very few people thought I could tuck 275's in the rear with coilovers - they were wrong.

[nismofly]

itll probably need around a 5mm spacer up front, youll have to test it when they come

if youre going to run overfenders anyway you might as well run a wider tire to use up the space and let you have less of a stagger in tire widths...with what you mentioned the car would have such bad understeer it wouldnt even be worth taking anywhere but the drag strip

[a_ahmed]

well i'm curious then, what kind of negative braking and handling issues will i see? According to the stuff people are saying in this thread, I want to know...

[AZhitman]

Wider track = "tramlining".

Bigger wheels / tires = more unsprung weight.

Too much stagger = understeer.

Frankly, 450hp doesn't warrant such an "over the top" setup. I'm around 400hp with 275/40/17 and 255/40/17.

You should be spending your money on GOOD tires, as opposed to WIDE tires.

A sticky 235 will outbrake a normal 275 all day long.

Like I said, build the car first - You have a lot of work to do before you worry about wheels.

[hannibal]

You should be spending your money on GOOD tires, as opposed to WIDE tires.

A sticky 235 will outbrake a normal 275 all day long.

Like I said, build the car first - You have a lot of work to do before you worry about wheels.

QFT!!!

[a_ahmed]

I don't want to run a staggered setup, that's why I would like to run front and rear the same, so I'm not too worried about that.

Tramlining, I assume that has to do with bump steer of sorts? Can you discuss that a little more?

Unsprung weight, that is true, but going to the rims I plan to get, from the current rims I have, my unsprung weight shouldn't go up too much. Even the stock 15" were around 18lbs, the current gtr rims im running are about that maybe a little lighter as well... and according to 5zigen the 17x10 should be around 18-19lbs.

I plan to run Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 they go up to 275/40/17 for sure, I believe they even have a 335. they are awesome tires. That is, other than R compounds.

How does your car road hold and handle with the described setup that you run? You run 255/40/17 front on a 9" (what offset) and 275/40/17 on a 10" in the rear?

[AZhitman]

You stated above you were going with a staggered setup. So which is it?

Tramlining = front tires follow grooves or unevenness in the pavement. Can be annoying, even dangerous.

Your unsprung weight will double going from a stock tire size to a 275, and double AGAIN going to a 300+ mm width. Do the math.

Eagle F1 GS D-3's are NOT "awesome", I have them on the rear of my 240 (275/40/17). They're not very sticky at all.

My car is a bit of an anomaly, so don't base yours off mine. However, it does quite well with the 255/275 setup and a lot of aftermarket tweaks.

if you were terribly concerned about handling for auto-X or road racing, you'd be looking at a different powerplant and lightweight wheels / tires.

I'm guessing you're not quite sure what you want this car to be yet.

[bone_stock_240]

Tramlining = front tires follow grooves or unevenness in the pavement. Can be annoying, even dangerous.

My goodness! That was the biggest suprise ever when I went to a wider rim and smaller sidewall. There is this one road near my work where I almost crashed the first time because the lane has a big ridge in the centre of it.

[a_ahmed]

Well I want to do more serious auto-x and track racing, while still driving the car on the road. I don't mind the extra ride harshness and noise honestly.. but yeah ...

What would you consider a better tire other than an R compound. I haven't driven a better tire than the GS-D3s. Not yet anyways. I've considered Advan Neovas, however I heard they are heavier and not as responsive as the GS-D3, at least that's what an M3 owner told me.

[chitownguy]

Neovas, RT-615's, and RS2's

[AZhitman]

Again, you're thinking of tires, when the car isn't even built yet.

Hell, by the time your car is done, there will be new models released.

Toyo Proxes, Michelin Pilot Sport and RT-615's are my favorites.

[nismofly]

i think like a couple other people mentioned, your best bet would be to sit back and plan out your build over a period of time, not do stuff now (like 315 rear rubber) that you wont be using for a couple years

a 450 rwhp ls1 on top of all the supporting mods in the rest of the car youre going to need doesnt happen overnight, its going to take time and a lot of money

you might try planning your build in stages and having certain mods that all work well with each other at each stage, and each stage works its way up to the next...this is what im doing and its well worth the effort because you have a car that makes the most of what you have at every step along the way, instead of only being something you enjoy right at the end after everythings done

no offense but the way you casually mentioned running a 255 front with something 60 - 80mm wider in rear, among other things, says to me that you havent researched much into this and youre going to be in deep **** before you know it...the other thing planning a build lets you do is learn about stuff along the way, which will let you build a better, faster, and more fun to drive car in the end

[AZhitman]

^ Well-said. Thanks Chris.