A non-technical guy needs advise:My '91 Q vibrates pretty violently (for a few seconds) in a non-consistant manner. I typically feel it when ascending and with the wheel slightly turned, and only during acceleration, but there is no rhyme or reason and it seems to be a hard condition to duplicate. It's the same type of vibration one might experience when driving over expansion joints on a bridge or on grooved pavement. Anyone have any ideas as to the cause and possible solutions???
As always, thanks for any help.-Bruce
Wild vibrating 1991 Q45!
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jtesensky
- Vendor
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- Car: 2005 Infiniti QX56
2002 Infiniti QX4 - Contact:
Four possibilities come to mind:Mounts (engine & transmission)Wheel balanceDrive shaftCrank pulleyCheck these first, I would probably start with the wheel balance (since it's the cheapest) and then move on to the driveshaft & mounts. The driveshaft has a center bearing that will wear out and is pretty easy to spot with the car in the air, same goes with the mounts. Crank pulley is a long shot but I've seen it more than once.-Joe
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trackfactory
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wild Vibration
Hello all. I am new to this forum.
I had my 91 Q45 for about 5 years now. It was involved in a car accident about a year and a half ago, and I just got it back on the road after shelling out all the money to have the body damage repaired myself. I'm still fighting with the insurance company.
Anyway, I'm just getting back into the swing of things and thouught I would re-accociate myself with all the Q45 issues.
I was reading through the discussions and I noticed this one because I had a similar problem two years ago. The car would sometimes feel like I was going over those "Wake Up" strips in the road before you get to a toll. I was told that my tourque converter was bad and had it replaced. The problem has not returned since.
I look forward to getting some good advise from this forum as my Q is going to need some work after sitting for over a year in storage.
Thanks:
I had my 91 Q45 for about 5 years now. It was involved in a car accident about a year and a half ago, and I just got it back on the road after shelling out all the money to have the body damage repaired myself. I'm still fighting with the insurance company.
Anyway, I'm just getting back into the swing of things and thouught I would re-accociate myself with all the Q45 issues.
I was reading through the discussions and I noticed this one because I had a similar problem two years ago. The car would sometimes feel like I was going over those "Wake Up" strips in the road before you get to a toll. I was told that my tourque converter was bad and had it replaced. The problem has not returned since.
I look forward to getting some good advise from this forum as my Q is going to need some work after sitting for over a year in storage.
Thanks:
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Hello list,
Bought a 91 Q last Sunday, installed new trans on Tuesday. (new slightly higher stall converter, kevlar clutches, valve body mods)
I had a cyclical vibration around 40mph that I thought was associated with the transmission, it seemed to go away after shifting into 3rd gear over 40mph.
Turns out one or both rear wheel bearings are bad. The diff itself is ok, (backlash within spec) and to my surprise the bearings list for $220 (lh?) $190 (rh?)
Hope that helps, this is not a car you want to throw parts at until a problem goes away. =)
Bought a 91 Q last Sunday, installed new trans on Tuesday. (new slightly higher stall converter, kevlar clutches, valve body mods)
I had a cyclical vibration around 40mph that I thought was associated with the transmission, it seemed to go away after shifting into 3rd gear over 40mph.
Turns out one or both rear wheel bearings are bad. The diff itself is ok, (backlash within spec) and to my surprise the bearings list for $220 (lh?) $190 (rh?)
Hope that helps, this is not a car you want to throw parts at until a problem goes away. =)
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
As we warn, the depreciation truely reflects the cost of things needing replacement..[rubber and rotating things].....If a car has depreciated $30,000 expect about $15,000 worth of work [parts and labor]. Couple weeks of inefficient work.
If you had all the parts [with INET discount] and paid a technican to work 4-5 full days, you could save significant money by doing it all at once.............probably save $5,000. [spend $10k]
The starting, the stopping,..........strip down to bare metal and change the thing that should be changed in mass rather than $300-$500 at a time.
By the time the rear bearings need changing the dif front bushing/bearing is probably worn. So are the rubber isolator mounts. Gotta have some special drifts for the bearing change out.
2 of us changed the rear subframe, the dif, all the rubber, adjustment eccentrics, and bushing/hubs, etc and both rear bearings in 8 hours and I only helped half the time.
Save up $2,000 worth of discount and junkyard parts and make a day of it......spend some time planning the process don't jump from end to end haphazardly. Remember they build the whole car in less than 20 hours plus paint.
If you had all the parts [with INET discount] and paid a technican to work 4-5 full days, you could save significant money by doing it all at once.............probably save $5,000. [spend $10k]
The starting, the stopping,..........strip down to bare metal and change the thing that should be changed in mass rather than $300-$500 at a time.
By the time the rear bearings need changing the dif front bushing/bearing is probably worn. So are the rubber isolator mounts. Gotta have some special drifts for the bearing change out.
2 of us changed the rear subframe, the dif, all the rubber, adjustment eccentrics, and bushing/hubs, etc and both rear bearings in 8 hours and I only helped half the time.
Save up $2,000 worth of discount and junkyard parts and make a day of it......spend some time planning the process don't jump from end to end haphazardly. Remember they build the whole car in less than 20 hours plus paint.
My philosophy with my darling old Q is to enjoy it while I have it, keep it running within reason of safety, and spend enough for an enjoyable ride without overspending for perfection.
Its a luxury item, and I have another car should it go sour.
$200-$400 every other month isnt bad considering the pleasure you get from it. Thats still cheaper than buying new (I crunched the numbers, and I save about 10 grand over five years vs. buying a new Sentra), and makes for a nice hobby anyway. Owning a Q isnt a very practical decision. But most fun things aren't that practical anyway.
-Jesda
Its a luxury item, and I have another car should it go sour.
$200-$400 every other month isnt bad considering the pleasure you get from it. Thats still cheaper than buying new (I crunched the numbers, and I save about 10 grand over five years vs. buying a new Sentra), and makes for a nice hobby anyway. Owning a Q isnt a very practical decision. But most fun things aren't that practical anyway.
-Jesda
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
I agree with both Q45Tech as well as Jesda in a sense of "pick an area & just do it" if you're going to keep the car for a couple of years, but, imho, if you have chronic problems everywhere, one has to be a little selective.
At first glance with mine I need;
ds window motor/regulatorps pump, pressure lineswheel bearingsstrutstension rodsbrakes (badly)hvac head unit
Once I get the major obvious stuff taken care of, I will address restoration style repairs front to back. That is, unless a surprise comes along like last night.......
Did I mention I just replaced my alternator a couple of hours ago? (ZERO volts output) Dammit! That wasn't on my list, but she left me on the side of the road last night cold dead.
At first glance with mine I need;
ds window motor/regulatorps pump, pressure lineswheel bearingsstrutstension rodsbrakes (badly)hvac head unit
Once I get the major obvious stuff taken care of, I will address restoration style repairs front to back. That is, unless a surprise comes along like last night.......
Did I mention I just replaced my alternator a couple of hours ago? (ZERO volts output) Dammit! That wasn't on my list, but she left me on the side of the road last night cold dead.
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elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
Helm doesnt sell FSM's for the Q.... (factory service manual)...... Neither does haynes or chiltons (pretty sure), thank GOD!!!
I have a 90Q service manual Ill sell......
Their all over ebay, and if someones parting a 90 I doubt it will still have the manual..... Possible, but I wouldnt count on it......
I have a 90Q service manual Ill sell......
Their all over ebay, and if someones parting a 90 I doubt it will still have the manual..... Possible, but I wouldnt count on it......
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Hey elwesso, sorry for the bad info guys. I bought my 91 SE-R FSM (factory, field, whatever) from Helm, but that's been yeeears ago.
1qckser, we have an inhouse (outhouse :pface ) transmission shop. We have curently been working on Acura TL-S/CL-S upgrades with better clutches (better material & more of them per set) & valve body work, hardened shafts, multiple choice stalls, depending on app, (high cr or stroked 3.5 or low cr stroked with forged pistons, Comptech s/c, NOS, etc.)
We use the same parts & can perform (per request) modifications along the same lines as a well known shop in NJ. My builder has been hands on for 30 years. I didn't come here to sell trannies, but rather learn about my car. If someone needs assistance though, I'd be happy to assist them.
On mine, we didn't want to increase the line pressure too much (firmer shifts) becuase I'm waiting for my JWT ECU & TCU, which I believe will firm the shifts as well as 1st gear start, etc. If it's not firm enough after the TCU, we'll go back in & firm it up more.
The stall isn't bad at all, maybe 300rpm higher, but will be slightly higher with an increase in torque expected from the ECU upgrade. In Drive with my foot off the brake, it doesn't roll away like it used to, it takes (very) little throttle to smoothly drive away. Right now with stock ecu/tcu, it holds the gear a little too long, with more power up top it should pull nicely up top & not have the lag at the high end it does now.
1qckser, we have an inhouse (outhouse :pface ) transmission shop. We have curently been working on Acura TL-S/CL-S upgrades with better clutches (better material & more of them per set) & valve body work, hardened shafts, multiple choice stalls, depending on app, (high cr or stroked 3.5 or low cr stroked with forged pistons, Comptech s/c, NOS, etc.)
We use the same parts & can perform (per request) modifications along the same lines as a well known shop in NJ. My builder has been hands on for 30 years. I didn't come here to sell trannies, but rather learn about my car. If someone needs assistance though, I'd be happy to assist them.
On mine, we didn't want to increase the line pressure too much (firmer shifts) becuase I'm waiting for my JWT ECU & TCU, which I believe will firm the shifts as well as 1st gear start, etc. If it's not firm enough after the TCU, we'll go back in & firm it up more.
The stall isn't bad at all, maybe 300rpm higher, but will be slightly higher with an increase in torque expected from the ECU upgrade. In Drive with my foot off the brake, it doesn't roll away like it used to, it takes (very) little throttle to smoothly drive away. Right now with stock ecu/tcu, it holds the gear a little too long, with more power up top it should pull nicely up top & not have the lag at the high end it does now.
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SOCAL91Q45a
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- Contact:
"We use the same parts & can perform (per request) modifications along the same lines as a well known shop in NJ."
Excellent info, as I suspect my trans will need replacing as well ... and likely soon.
I already have the JWT ECU/TCU in my car, so ... what would a performance oriented trans rebuild/tweak run for a q45a in ballpark figures?
feel free to offline convo me [email protected]
Excellent info, as I suspect my trans will need replacing as well ... and likely soon.
I already have the JWT ECU/TCU in my car, so ... what would a performance oriented trans rebuild/tweak run for a q45a in ballpark figures?
feel free to offline convo me [email protected]
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elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
I wanna play too..... [email protected]
I already have a transmission out of the car and would be interested in letting you guys do the work, let me know what we are talking for price and also it would not be a rush on it, I want a higher stall, and just firm up my shifts a bit, im not going with the TCU because in the New england area a second gear start during winter is not a bad thing, other than that I shift it myself and have no problems with starting in first gear that way, let me know, Thanks
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
1qckser, fwiw, there's three different tcu programs, per Ben Pila @ JWT;
1- 1st gear start only2- 1st gear start & hold gears a little longer (kinda like sport mode used to be in Pathfinders)3- A three mode with a rocker switch a) first gear start only b) first gear start with sport c) second gear start stock mode
Let me get some info together & I'll get back with you guys today. Does anyone have a good core laying around?
Also, I probably should get the lowdown on 'advertising' here, like I said, it wasn't my intention to come here to hawk stuff but I'd be willing to contribute to the site if I do.
1- 1st gear start only2- 1st gear start & hold gears a little longer (kinda like sport mode used to be in Pathfinders)3- A three mode with a rocker switch a) first gear start only b) first gear start with sport c) second gear start stock mode
Let me get some info together & I'll get back with you guys today. Does anyone have a good core laying around?
Also, I probably should get the lowdown on 'advertising' here, like I said, it wasn't my intention to come here to hawk stuff but I'd be willing to contribute to the site if I do.