Wierdest ***** Overheating Problem EVER.

[janda240sx]

Heres the deal: First off Compresion test netted 155-160 across all cylinders. Changed water pump. T-stat numerous times. CTS sensor. New radiator I'm out of options.

The car can sit and idle for hours with no problems. I even held it at 3 grand for about a minute straight while sitting still and it ran fine. As soon as you put the damn thing in gear to drive off the temp starts to climb immediatly and pegs out very quick, HOWEVER the car NEVER boils over. I know the t-stat is good b/c I have 2 240's and have swapped them between the cars. Same with the water pumps and CTS'.

Any body got any input? I was about to tear the engine apart and have the head inpected and do that whole deal but I just don't thnink thats the problem.

[theother1wstolen]

i would try hooking up a manual water temperature gauge to make sure its not some sort of weird voltage short or crossfeed somewhere.

[locoluna825]

try looking into the temperature switch

[janda240sx]

Gunna try that tomorrow. Also ordering an autometer electric water temp- gauge and stuff. Its my fiances car and its been sitting now for about 6 months cause we thought it had a blown HG, But as said earlier,don't think thats the prob.

EDIT: Found out some new info @ 4:00 This morning. Jeez I gotta start sleepin some. Only 3 hours in 3 days. Anyway..........I've got a bypass switch wired to fan controller. If I turned the fans on I could watch the temp gauge climb. When I turned them off the needle would fall back to normal. It wasn't a drastic change but you could see it. All of this is W/O a t-stat in the car.
Modified by janda240sx at 5:04 AM 5/11/2009

[tyrodtom]

Most dc motors will run in either direction. It just depends on which wire you ground. Are your fans running in the right direction?

[DrJuice164]

Is the system bleed properlly. I had a similar issue before but it would randomly build heat until I held revs at 4k and then the temp would fall. Turrns out I had an air pocket.

[Cone Junky]

Gunna try that tomorrow. Also ordering an autometer electric water temp- gauge and stuff. Its my fiances car and its been sitting now for about 6 months cause we thought it had a blown HG, But as said earlier,don't think thats the prob.

EDIT: Found out some new info @ 4:00 This morning. Jeez I gotta start sleepin some. Only 3 hours in 3 days. Anyway..........I've got a bypass switch wired to fan controller. If I turned the fans on I could watch the temp gauge climb. When I turned them off the needle would fall back to normal. It wasn't a drastic change but you could see it. All of this is W/O a t-stat in the car.

Modified by janda240sx at 5:04 AM 5/11/2009

So the temp gauge goes up as the fans come on? I don't think it is actually a temp issue. Some how your "bypass" is backfeeding voltage or shorting to groud your temp gauge.

[janda240sx]

So the temp gauge goes up as the fans come on? I don't think it is actually a temp issue. Some how your "bypass" is backfeeding voltage or shorting to groud your temp gauge.

My thoughts exactly... I'm waiting on the new gauges and everything to get here and I'm gunna try that.

Is the system bleed properlly. I had a similar issue before but it would randomly build heat until I held revs at 4k and then the temp would fall. Turrns out I had an air pocket.

I knew someone would say it. Its not an air pocket. Everybody b****es about air pockets in these engines. In my car I can change the water pump and t-stat, then bleed the system all in under 15 min. Oh, and yes the fans are pulling in the right direction.

[bruinbear714]

Heres the deal: First off Compresion test netted 155-160 across all cylinders. Changed water pump. T-stat numerous times. CTS sensor. New radiator I'm out of options.

The car can sit and idle for hours with no problems. I even held it at 3 grand for about a minute straight while sitting still and it ran fine. As soon as you put the damn thing in gear to drive off the temp starts to climb immediatly and pegs out very quick, HOWEVER the car NEVER boils over. I know the t-stat is good b/c I have 2 240's and have swapped them between the cars. Same with the water pumps and CTS'.

Any body got any input? I was about to tear the engine apart and have the head inpected and do that whole deal but I just don't thnink thats the problem.

When the car "overheats", is the radiator extrremely hot?

My guess is you have the wrong dash sensor harness for your chassis.

I keep saying this and here it is again:

S13 chassis requires S13 dash sensor, despite the fact that it goes in the engine bay.

S14 chassis requires S14 dash sensor.

S13 dash gauge temp sensor

s14 dash gauge temp sensor

[Slide_Society]

Bad wires in the harness?

[janda240sx]

When the car "overheats", is the radiator extrremely hot?

My guess is you have the wrong dash sensor harness for your chassis.

I keep saying this and here it is again:

S13 chassis requires S13 dash sensor, despite the fact that it goes in the engine bay.

S14 chassis requires S14 dash sensor.

S13 dash gauge temp sensor

s14 dash gauge temp sensor

Hahaha...... Its still the factory ka that came in the car 189,000 miles ago. Nice try and thanx for that kittle bit if info. though

[fun240]

Whats up josh man?

<- Anthony

You still drivin the bronco????

Hope you get the s14 worked out brother

[janda240sx]

Yeah

Still got he bronc. Tryin to get ambers s14 together. Actually just relisted my s14 for sale again. lower price this time.

[Ka24de240sxS13]

if that doesn't work out, you should try burping the system. jack up the front end of the car take of the radiator cap and wait for all the bubbles to come out of the antifreeze.

[janda240sx]

Haha......As stated before. I can change the t-stat & w.p. and bleed the sys. in under 15 min. That is not the problem here. Read before you post.