wierd noise coming from my brakes when i back up

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VeloceDrift
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1995 Nissan KA24DET

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Everytime i back up and apply my brakes they sound like a moaning whale... any ideas??


BOOMSHAKALAKA
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VeloceDrift wrote:Everytime i back up and apply my brakes they sound like a moaning whale... any ideas??
I had your problem before. Check your brake pads...might be time to replace them.

94_240sx
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topless94 wrote:
I had your problem before. Check your brake pads...might be time to replace them.
There's a little clip attached to the pad and when pad goes low it scrapes the rotor. I bet that's what happening. Time for Hawk pads!!

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DeXteR
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yeah, the sound is awful. my vert did it too. i never did get around to investigating further, but i'm sure you just need some new pads. time for an upgrade!

94_240sx
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94_240sx wrote:There's a little clip attached to the pad and when pad goes low it scrapes the rotor. I bet that's what happening. Time for Hawk pads!!
This is the clip that I was talking about. You will have 1-2mm pad left after you hear the sound. So get that thing taken care of ASAP.

ishkabibble
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My vert makes that sound... guess I need to look at the pads before I die. I was waiting till the temp is higher so I could paint the brakes while I'm fixing them.

slownslurious
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can also be a sticking e brake, but usually just bad pads. once the piston in the caliper extends so far the rear S13 brakes work very poorly.

just make sure you remember to turn the caliper in and not break all your C clamps trying to push it back in! getting the little box tool from autozone makes it far easier, or you can screw up your favorite set of needle nose in a pinch...

wirelessalpha
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yep

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zenkii
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Yup, it's the them brake pad that needs change. No need to look at the rotors because if they are bad, car should shake like hell and etc. Perfomance break pads shouldn't be too much higher than oem ones

ishkabibble
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zenkii wrote:Yup, it's the them brake pad that needs change. No need to look at the rotors because if they are bad, car should shake like hell and etc. Perfomance break pads shouldn't be too much higher than oem ones
Rotors can be too thin in addition to being warped.. so they should be checked out.

Performance rear brake pads are 3x the cost of OEM ($65). Thermoquiet pads are around the same cost as OEM ($22). More bang for your buck for the Thermoquiets.

guyaverage
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I 've had the moaning and groaning problem even with brand new pads and rotors, and regardless of pad lining type (standard, semi metallic, etc). The only thing I find that helps is to remove the pad and spray some "brake quiet" spray (its a blueish aerosol spray-on glue) on the shims and reinstall and the sound goes away. I have to do this about every 3-4 months regardless of how much pad wear there is. Its definitely worse on older pads but even newer ones dont seem to keep the noise away long. My hatchback never had this problem but my vert certainly does.

94_240sx
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Oh! There's sticky stuff you can apply on the back of the pads. It also eliminate the noise from the brake. If you pads are low, then the sound is from the clip scraping rotor. If not, it could be one of what other guys said. You should be able to tell how thick your pads are without taking off the wheels.

VeloceDrift
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i guess my best bet would be to try new pads. i really dont think that is it because it is not the high pitch sqeak its a low grown and my car is stopping fine. it only happens when gently applying my brakes in reverse. not really to big of a deal i guess only people give me the "damn that car is a piece" when im backing up How much better performance would i get out of upgraded pads in the rear??

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VeloceDrift wrote:How much better performance would i get out of upgraded pads in the rear??
Not much. Front ones do most work.

VeloceDrift
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ya thats what i figured..

BOOMSHAKALAKA
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VeloceDrift wrote:i guess my best bet would be to try new pads. i really dont think that is it because it is not the high pitch sqeak its a low grown and my car is stopping fine.
I think it is. When I reversed I heard that same low groan...like a creaking noise. Stopping was fine...if not longer than usual. I got some new pads and it stopped.

If you still doubt it, at least check the pads you have now.

VeloceDrift
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topless94 wrote:
I think it is. When I reversed I heard that same low groan...like a creaking noise. Stopping was fine...if not longer than usual. I got some new pads and it stopped.

If you still doubt it, at least check the pads you have now.
yeah true story. new pads are never a bad thing

slownslurious
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its a normal sound when the brakes get low because the calipers are extended all the way and they dont' work quite right like that... just go ahead and change the pads and put some brake quiet in behind them while you have em out. Pads are like $20 so consider it preventative maintenance. Technically you are supposed to flush the fluid every couple years anyway (with older nissan ABS units, which you dont have, its nearly a necessity) so this gives you a chance to flush out the dirty old fluid for some new stuff anyway. Its always surprising what a brake fluid change and 4 corner pad change will do to transform a cars braking.

One word of caution though, put a 2x4 under the brake pedal when you are bleeding the brakes, if it goes to the floor you can blow the seal on the master cyl, which is a more expensive and time consuming fix.

VeloceDrift
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yeah thats what im going to do.. thanks for the tip with the 2x4 it never crossed my mind. ive bled many brakes in my day but never flushed the lines.. how hard of a job is that??

ishkabibble
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flushing is siphoning out the brake fluid in your master cylinder, refilling the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid, then bleeding all of the lines a LOT (until they are full of fresh fluid.

slownslurious
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if you start with the line farthest from the MC (on the 240, oddly, the drivers side rear) and pump until there is barely any fluid left and fill it with new fluid, then you really don't have much left, as just regular bleeding (2 or 3 pumps) will flush the front lines, and only a couple more than that for the pass. rear.

A tip I learned from some racers is to alternate the color of your brake fluid (the good stuff comes in diff. colors) and that way you have a visual for when you have flushed all the old stuff out of the system.

Oh, and if any of your brake lines start to look cracked, replace them (spl parts braided lines are cheap and don't swell) and if your hard lines ever start to look rusted or corroded replace them, they will probably fail eventually (seen it happen several times).

and speed bleeders are awesome and save a ton of time... the vaccuum pump systems are the best but for most of us not worth the cash.

94_240sx
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^^Great info. Speed bleeders are $12 per pair from SPL Parts and stainless braided line is a good replacement for our 13+ years old verts.

Get a thin transparent plastic hose from home depot and attach it to the bleeder. Things get less messy that way. Bleeders are always on top of the calipers since air goes up.

VeloceDrift
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sweet thanks for the info guys.. im on it!

wirelessalpha
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you never fail to impress 94_240

94_240sx
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wirelessalpha wrote:you never fail to impress 94_240
Just saw this wireless. Thanks man...

Actually, I bled my wife's 3000gt today and took some pics for you guys. Tube is 3/8" from Home Depot. It was tedious job, but we finished all 4 corners with no problem. Rear passenger side was making small noise sometimes, so I decided to bleed them.

slownslurious said the driver side is the farthest on 240 and this is why.


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