95 NA motor.i'm just testing things out before i go turbo. i do not have a SAFC yet ....
i took out the old o2 sensor and pluged the PLX stuff right in and wired it up...(not to sound retarded but whats the point of having the old one if i disconected it, is it because now i'm going to be able to adjust it myself(SAFC))...now for the questions....
-what is the goal that the motor should stay at...(14, 15 ish or what)
-in a turbo application do those #'s stay the same......
-when i let go of the gas and pop it into neutral to coast it...it stays at lean for a couple of seconds and then pops back up....is that ok....
-after driving for a while the A/F mixture dips into 13's and low 12's, whats up with that
if anyone can school me...please do so....
eric
wideband question (PLX-300 TEST)
i FREAKEN LOVE NICO
zerothread?id=124772
SO ITS BASICALY SAME FOR ME EXCEPT STAY AT 15ish AT WOT OR WHAT....YA CAN STILL ANSWER MY OTHER QUESTIONS....ONLY WOULD BENIFIT ME....
ERIC
zerothread?id=124772
SO ITS BASICALY SAME FOR ME EXCEPT STAY AT 15ish AT WOT OR WHAT....YA CAN STILL ANSWER MY OTHER QUESTIONS....ONLY WOULD BENIFIT ME....
ERIC
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DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
hmmm, i'm not tight enough to have a wideband o2 sensor, but i might be able to help you a bit from what ive gathered from my narrowband gauge, and what i can remember from my intern days dyno tuning.
you took out your old o2 sensor entirely? and is there anyway to hook up your wideband o2 to the car? is it an S13 or S14? maybe i dont understand what you have already done, but i was under the impression when you buy an o2 sensor you still have to use your old o2 sensor and leave that connected to the computer, and then you need to weld in a bung on your exhaust manifold to use your wideband o2 sensor.
the o2 sensor sees different things under different situations. it is my understanding that when cruising the afr jumps back and forth between being just rich and just lean, this is great for emissions because it basically stays stoich the entire time, or rather it has a stoich average (stoich = 14.7)
under hard deceleration, or compression/engine braking the car goes very lean, thats why it stays lean and then when you pop it into neutral it comes back up.
at wide open throttle or WOT the computer goes rich as hell and then sees its at WOT and ignores everything else and uses its own WOT fuel map. So it usually goes rich and then starts to lean up but it stays pretty stoich.
for turbo you definately want to go richer to keep things cool when youre gonna shove all that compressed air in there, so think high 11 to mid 12 to one.
i can't really tell with a narrowband gauge but if you go richer after you've driven for a while it might be an indication of something wrong, or maybe thats just what the computer does when things get hotter, like i said, i cant tell you much about that.
if i could think of anyone who could answer these questions better, and i'm sure there are a lot, i'd think deviousKA, but hes spending a lotta time at his new ecu tuning site. there a thread about it on the KA page so go visiti it, theres a good amount of usful info there
you took out your old o2 sensor entirely? and is there anyway to hook up your wideband o2 to the car? is it an S13 or S14? maybe i dont understand what you have already done, but i was under the impression when you buy an o2 sensor you still have to use your old o2 sensor and leave that connected to the computer, and then you need to weld in a bung on your exhaust manifold to use your wideband o2 sensor.
the o2 sensor sees different things under different situations. it is my understanding that when cruising the afr jumps back and forth between being just rich and just lean, this is great for emissions because it basically stays stoich the entire time, or rather it has a stoich average (stoich = 14.7)
under hard deceleration, or compression/engine braking the car goes very lean, thats why it stays lean and then when you pop it into neutral it comes back up.
at wide open throttle or WOT the computer goes rich as hell and then sees its at WOT and ignores everything else and uses its own WOT fuel map. So it usually goes rich and then starts to lean up but it stays pretty stoich.
for turbo you definately want to go richer to keep things cool when youre gonna shove all that compressed air in there, so think high 11 to mid 12 to one.
i can't really tell with a narrowband gauge but if you go richer after you've driven for a while it might be an indication of something wrong, or maybe thats just what the computer does when things get hotter, like i said, i cant tell you much about that.
if i could think of anyone who could answer these questions better, and i'm sure there are a lot, i'd think deviousKA, but hes spending a lotta time at his new ecu tuning site. there a thread about it on the KA page so go visiti it, theres a good amount of usful info there
i figured that i would have to install a seperate bung for the new O2. i was just playing around with my New PLX...i don't abuse my car right now so i'll keep watching those #...i minus well get in the habit of looking at it....i guess when i go turbo i'll install a seperate bung....i have this fear in the back of my head now that i'm getting close to going turbo, and seeing fellow nico members blow their motors and such......
I don't want to blow my motor.....watching the boost gauge(for boost spikes), PLX device, RPM's, and the freaken road sounds like a problem....i guess i'll just take my time learning how to look at all at a glance......
I don't want to blow my motor.....watching the boost gauge(for boost spikes), PLX device, RPM's, and the freaken road sounds like a problem....i guess i'll just take my time learning how to look at all at a glance......
the PLX-300 should tap into your old o2 line... it says this on the site..
"the second is a 0-1v output which will feed your stock ECU so you only have to use a single O2 sensor. You can put the sensor directly in place of your stock O2 sensor, which eliminates the need to weld a separate bung into your exhaust!"
so you only need 1 o2 bung... you should be able to put this in, and connect it to the stock wiring that goes back to the ecu... at least that's what i'm getting from it..
"the second is a 0-1v output which will feed your stock ECU so you only have to use a single O2 sensor. You can put the sensor directly in place of your stock O2 sensor, which eliminates the need to weld a separate bung into your exhaust!"
so you only need 1 o2 bung... you should be able to put this in, and connect it to the stock wiring that goes back to the ecu... at least that's what i'm getting from it..
Re: (lrb_2000)
is that true ya....it makes sense....they are both o2 sensors one is just newer and better......can someone find out exatly what wire to where....i don't want to fry the daum thing.....thanx
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DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
argh, 95 is a three wire, i'm almost positive i have one sitting around.
its easy for us S13 KAs because its only a single wire. I'll have to look up on that one for you, unless of course, one of your S14 folks can immediately answer this...
Edit: ive just read this, and i know for a fact my 95 motor was a single wire. and it is also known that some 95s are three wire.
Modified by DjPantsSpecR at 10:09 PM 6/24/2006
its easy for us S13 KAs because its only a single wire. I'll have to look up on that one for you, unless of course, one of your S14 folks can immediately answer this...
Edit: ive just read this, and i know for a fact my 95 motor was a single wire. and it is also known that some 95s are three wire.
Modified by DjPantsSpecR at 10:09 PM 6/24/2006
i have a 95 motor in a 90 body...so i have a s13 dohc wiring harness...so its just one.....so i went ahead and connected the grey wire to the wire comming from the engine wiring harness...cranked it up and went for a little drive....now my a/f is like in the 11's....WTF...before when i installed plx alone with just power it was reading in the 15's....i though 15's were alot better....what is the stock o2 sensor for if it runs better with out the ecu monitering the o2 sensor......school me somone....eric
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streetrays
- Posts: 138
- Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2003 12:14 pm
- Car: S14
- Contact:
Re: (streetrays)
yep, thats what i didstreetrays wrote:All PLX units output narrowband signal (aside from the wideband signal). you can use this narrowband output to feed into ECU, thus allowing you to remove the stock O2 sensor.
Re: wideband question (mirra32)
i have the aem Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller that has the 0-1volt output. but when i hook up the output to the ecu the car runs like crap. i put a volt meter on it and i get up to 1.3v if the line is conected to the ecu. i checked the line from the ecu and it is puting out .3 volts when the ing is on. got any idea why that is? thought that it should not be puting out any voltage from the ecu? the car is a 93 se with the stock moter. please help if you can thanks.