Why won't my stupid 96 OBDII won't pass smog? Readiness Test Results inside!

[WhiteSilvia]

Readiness Test Results

Misfire status = CompleteFuel Status = CompleteComprehensive Status = CompleteCatalyst Status = Not CompleteHeated Catalyst Status = N/AEvaporative Status = CompleteSecondary Air Status = N/AAC Status = N/AOxygen Status = Not CompleteOxygen Heater Status = Not CompleteEGR Status = Not Complete

I driven my car 550+ miles since I reset my ECU and have not had a single CEL come on. Back when I reset it, it was due to bad O2 sensor in the front and bad 4th cylinder spark plug. I replaced all broken parts with new ones (NGK Plugs, and another OEM used O2 sensor).

What the heck is going on? Why is O2 status not completed is a main concern.
Modified by WhiteSilvia at 8:47 PM 2/15/2007

[theother1wstolen]

try running a bottle of seafoam through your fuel tank, and 1/3 of a bottle through your vacuum line off your brake booster, as directed on the bottle. then replace your o2 sensor with a NEW one rather than a used one (they only cost $20 tops new) and find out if your cat is still functional. also what emission portion is it failing specifically?

[WhiteSilvia]

try running a bottle of seafoam through your fuel tank, and 1/3 of a bottle through your vacuum line off your brake booster, as directed on the bottle. then replace your o2 sensor with a NEW one rather than a used one (they only cost $20 tops new) and find out if your cat is still functional. also what emission portion is it failing specifically?

It only fails the CEL/MIL test portion. Stating "it cannot complete all the monitors, blah blah." So it's pretty specific. It passes everything else with flying colors.

I had a shop run the monitor scan, and the results are what I posted above. I've done some more searching and apparently the stupid drive cycle provided by nissan has to be followed to the dot. This includes a bunch of stupid things that you can't possibly do on the street. Which is why a lot of 96-97 nissans have such a hard time getting all the monitors passed initially.

I also read some guy just took his 96 SE to the dealer and they ran it through the drive cycle exactly (on their dynometer I'm assuming?) And it was only $150. I'm about ready to consider that because this is absolutely ridiculous. This is my daily driver and I need to get it registered/smogged.

[WhiteSilvia]

No one has any other advice aside from just drive the car more ? :\

I tried calling all local dealerships to me and none of them said they could run it through its cycle for me, I just have to "drive it"

[mister2nr]

pretty simple when you went through emissions how long did you drive/run your car before going? The problem really with OBD2 systems are that they have to run through there cycle of checks. Period. If you have an OBD 2 car and you live 2 mins from emissions and go there right away the system is still going through its cycle of checks. If you drive the car for at least 30 mins before going it should go through all of its checks. Now Im not saying let the car sit in your driveway, actually take the car out on the road drive it through normal to high reving conditions getting the systems to go through the cycles and then head to the emissions station. You should pass as long as you drive the car for a while before you go. I have had similar problems with complaints from customers who come in because of their engine lights being on replace the part then when the pick the car up they go straight there without driving and then complain. So I hope this helps clear things up for ya.

[jbennett58]

check to see if there are any pending codes that are preventing all monitors from running,make sure keep alive power for ecu memory is good, ecu may be running tests and losing memory every time key is shut off,ecu may be bad losing memory

[WhiteSilvia]

pretty simple when you went through emissions how long did you drive/run your car before going? The problem really with OBD2 systems are that they have to run through there cycle of checks. Period. If you have an OBD 2 car and you live 2 mins from emissions and go there right away the system is still going through its cycle of checks. If you drive the car for at least 30 mins before going it should go through all of its checks. Now Im not saying let the car sit in your driveway, actually take the car out on the road drive it through normal to high reving conditions getting the systems to go through the cycles and then head to the emissions station. You should pass as long as you drive the car for a while before you go. I have had similar problems with complaints from customers who come in because of their engine lights being on replace the part then when the pick the car up they go straight there without driving and then complain. So I hope this helps clear things up for ya.

I driven my car 550+ miles since I reset my ECU

Basically I've driven it for a few weeks before taking it in to test. And I've tested in 3 times...

And there are no "pending codes" at all. The CEL is not on. The readout i got from a mechanic shop is what is posted in the initial post. I am missing 4 out of the 7 monitors. I dont know if that deducts that my ECU is bad? I honestly can't tell.