Why O Why??????

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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glacier985
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Lets see, I think my ka24e hates me. The story, replaced bearings beacuse I thought I spun one, but I didn't. I was so far into the motor that I went ahead and replaced them with clevites. Now I used plastiguage, but I double-checked every bearing. Come to today, put about 10 miles on my car, head out to the gas station to get some gas before I go to work. Take off out of the gas station and shift from first to second, its a little wet out and the wheels slip just a tad. Car misses and the ungoldly sound of a knock comes from the motor. Now I never took the motor higher the 4k and I guess the little slip in the turn must have spun the bearing, but it just does not seem right. I'll have pics when I pull the motor. I just don't understand why . I was about to go outside and rev the motor until it blew, but I kept a level head. ANyone have any other ideas?

BTW I'm getting a new one on wednesday with 115k and then screwing the NA dyno and going straight to turbo since I've had all the parts now for 6 months.


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x240xdrifter
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I hate knocking motors , mines knocking too, your story sounds like it doesn't make sense., maybe the knock could be your ps pump or something...I dunno beats me, turbo is the way to go anyway. good luck

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glacier985
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hmm, never thought of that, maybe i'll pull the PS belt off and start it and see....

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deviousKA
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Ah man, not again, that sucks Justin!

Like x240xdrifter mentioned, check some other things out it could be something else.

Do you have the egr bungs plugged off on your exhaust? Those things are notorious for coming loose and making an ungodly noise, I always cake mine with exhaust sealant before I install, and get them really tight.

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glacier985
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I pray to god thats its something else, but I'm almost 100% sure its rod knock. I'm going to check things out tomorrow and see if I can find anything, if not the motor is going to come out and be replaced with a [new] used one.

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glacier985
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well I now believe I was right, PS belt off, still got the knock, EGR plug is in place, nothing is loose. I will know for sure later this week when the motor comes outs and hte pan comes off. Then in goes a new motor.

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x240xdrifter
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oh man thats weak, sorry dude, good luck with everything

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deviousKA
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Youve got the right attitude about it Justin, wont be long before its back on the road one way or the other.

Nismo_Freak
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If it starts knocking at idle then you can pull the injector clip off and sometimes it will subside. That will let you know that it's rod knock.

Also, on E's I've heard alot of noisy valvetrains. SR's do it time to time when they get some dirt in the lash adjusters. Might wanna check that out, as one of my SR's got noisy after I had taken out the adjusters. It didn't get noisy until I had driven it for about 10 - 15 miles. I took it out, rebled it and put it back in. Noise gone.

Sounded just like rod knock too.

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glacier985
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I doubt its anything it the valve train, its way too loud to be. But before I pull it out I still might try the injector deal and see if it subsides.

pregmantis
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I HAVE seen some bearing sets where there is one hole per bearing pair for each rod. If one of em is on the wrong half then it would starve the bearing. I cant remember if our ka's have the one hole thing with the bearings, but If the bearings were put in wrong I would have expected it to knock earlier than 10 miles. hope your find the knock or the cause.

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glacier985
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They did have the holes and I did remeber to line them up.

What I think might have happened is the bearing could have came out of its seat (i guess you would call it) and it spun with the rod instead of staying in place.

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glacier985
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I think before I put a whole new motor in I'm going to pull the pan off and try and swap in a new bearing. And if the clearances are good I put the pan back on and see how the motor runs. But I'm still going to pickup the motor I was going to originally get. What do you guys think? good idea?

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glacier985
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Okay, pulled the pan off today and no shavings whatsoever in the pan, nothing. Pulled off #2 and #3 rod cap and the bearings look brand new. I'm begining to think something else made this noise. Tomorrow I'm going to check #1 and #4 and then maybe the crank bearings why'll I'm at it.

Anyone have any ideas one what else it could be? Oil pump maybe?

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x240xdrifter
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very possible it could be a fualty oil pump, I heard it can make a nosie like rod knock. is the noise in rythm, fast pace or slow?

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glacier985
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its got a rhythm to it, like, knock-knock-knock and speeds up with the motor.

420sxse
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transmission?

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x240xdrifter
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ya its deff. rod knock....how careful were you when re-installing the bearings? because the main bearing caps must be reinstalled to their original postion, usally the caps are marked, but if the caps were not install to their original position, the main bearings will wear out quicker, so your best bet is to replace them and make sure the caps are in the original position

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glacier985
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x240xdrifter wrote:ya its deff. rod knock....how careful were you when re-installing the bearings? because the main bearing caps must be reinstalled to their original postion, usally the caps are marked, but if the caps were not install to their original position, the main bearings will wear out quicker, so your best bet is to replace them and make sure the caps are in the original position
These are brand new bearings, clevites to be exact, installed less then 15 miles ago. They even still have the assembly lube on them. I still have to look at #1 and #4 though, but its usually number 3 that spins.

I'm waiting on Gabe's input before I make my next move.

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deviousKA
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It is a rare occurence on the nissan with 21mm piston pin, but it is possible that one of your pin bushings have worn.

If it isnt your rod bearing or pin bushings, and if the oil pump and drive arent obviously damaged, I would be back to looking into the top end.

It could be a piston issue, but I highly doubt it.

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x240xdrifter
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glacier985 wrote:
These are brand new bearings, clevites to be exact, installed less then 15 miles ago. They even still have the assembly lube on them. I still have to look at #1 and #4 though, but its usually number 3 that spins.

I'm waiting on Gabe's input before I make my next move.
ya but if you put the wrong bearing caps on ( its a must that the caps match the bearing position from original manufactor specs) the wear can be exessive, thats the only thought I can come up with. did you torque the bolts down to spec?

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glacier985
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x240xdrifter

- everything was done per the FSM, every step was the same

And Gabe

- If all the bearings and the oil pump check out fine. Would be a better idea to replace the motor and deal with this one later? I really need the car back up and running by the 7th of april.


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