Might not be necessary, but definitely recommended (I moved the fuel on my LS1 swap to avoid the exhaust). You're right, other than that, I doubt you'll find too many major hurdles as there should be plenty of room. As far as the exhaust, I would just route it back to the other side and mate it up to any nice aftermarket S13/S14 catback exhaust.cricha5 wrote:fine. I will. you'll see. you'll all see!
I just thought someone would have done it by now.
Any advice on the exhaust? The intake and exhaust are reversed from the ka. I assume I'll have to reroute the fuel line. Otherwise I don't see much major trouble with it.
it sounds like a sr20de to.Things in BOLD are pros for both engines.cricha5 wrote:Extremely widely available with cheap parts and current support in the U.S.Light as heck.Relatively simple compared to all other engines with exception of the 4age.Eco friendly Reliable since the engines are low mileage.Takes very well to modifications.
And mostly, I can't see why not. If I'm going to go through the trouble of an engine swap, then why not this one. It's perfect for the car in my opinion. Also, I'm a n/a guy. Turbos add too much complexity for me. Plus I've yet to see a sr swap that works properly. I'm sure there are, but I just haven't seen one in person, so don't hate.
The other option would be the lsx swap, but that's expensive and I'm trying to keep things as cheap as possible.
1) Yes, the sr20 is aluminum, but the sr20 is a more complex engine, just look at two pics with the valve covers off. I may be wrong, but I think most sr20's still have distributors as well. And from the 10 minutes of searching I did, they aren't any cheaper. And they're getting older.rcabrita wrote:it sounds like a sr20de to.Things in BOLD are pros for both engines.
1) If I'm going to go through the trouble of an engine swap, then why not this one. Because it isnt as easy as an SR20 swap
2) Also, I'm a n/a guy. Turbos add too much complexity for me. If this is your logic then get the best 4cyl N/A motor you can stuff into a 240...K24DE Block + K20 Head or a F20c/F22c
3) trying to keep things as cheap as possible.Why are you modifying cars?
2) How would you go about doing that?cricha5 wrote:1) Yes, the sr20 is aluminum, but the sr20 is a more complex engine, just look at two pics with the valve covers off. I may be wrong, but I think most sr20's still have distributors as well. And from the 10 minutes of searching I did, they aren't any cheaper. And they're getting older.
2) VTEC? I'm not messing with vtec. Even though I hear they are bulletproof, I want to be able to change my own cam profile.
3) I don't follow? Are you saying moding cars is only for the rich, or that it's only fun if you spend a lot of money?
I just sold my M3, so I'm looking for a donor car now. I figure I might as well get an automatic since they're going for much less than the manuals. I can pick up some pedals and a master cylinder at the junk yard.
You most certainly can swap cams with a vtec engine.Search online "How Vtec works"I will help you understand it more.cricha5 wrote:2) i don't think you do swap cams with a vtec. All it's wizardry does it for you dynamically.
3) new car > $15k and much, much more with any performance240sx <= $2kalmost new engine and tranny less than $1.5kcustom driveshaft $300minor exhaust $200mounts $200megasquirt $200clutch, hoses, fluid, etc ??
About $5k for a mostly new engine in a light body. Maybe $6k for unforeseen needs.
Add another $1k for bushings and suspension if needed and we have a mechanically new car for $7k. Which is how much I sold my old M3 for. Just fixing the M3 costs tons of money, not to mention moding it. After the swap I would have a cheaply fixable, cheaply modifiable, reliable for years, fun as heck, car that's easy on the gas to boot.
But please continue to question. It helps. for example, I've thought that it would cost about that much, but I never wrote it down before.
Can anyone see if I've grossly underestimated anything?
And if anyone has a problem or questions why I got rid of the M3 to get something less than, listen. The parts, even the small parts, were draining me dry. I budget for car parts, I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance, but good lord, I could barely keep the M3 in tires. Besides the money, I attended my first autocross in a bone stock 97 mustang gt this past weekend. Fun as heck, but also so humbling. I have no business in an M3. I need something that I can improve as my driving skills improve.
cricha5 wrote:no, he's not saying that. there is some similar labeling between some of the honda and nissan engines. Do a search for "K24 Block On K20 Head" and you'll see.
Well I was making a suggestions based on cricha's love for the N/A motor.I basicly told him to swap the best 4 cylinder engine in his 240.Either a F20c/F22c or a K24 block using a K20 head. Both K20 and K24s are Honda engines.240cp wrote:Are you saying that a honda head will fit on a nissan engine?
I met a guy who has a CRX that runs 8s in the 1/4 mile. He uses a 4g63t. He said just about everything mates up (its been a while since I met this fellow) and that the only problem with it is that it eats axles like no tomorrow, since it uses the single cam axles.Team kaotik wrote:Just out of curiosity why would want to put a honda motor in a nissan with so many nissan/toyota engine at your disposal. Not to mention most of the nissan/toyota engines are cheaper than HONDA.Modified by Team kaotik at 6:27 PM 12/12/2008