If you aren't going to track the car there is little demand for the Motons. You could get a good Koni 86xx series coilover setup made for considerably less that will be perfectly oriented to what you want.brizanden wrote:the sport coils are only 3,200 and they arent full race and they are super nice for road and occasional track thats why i wanted them. and what is the actual shock body in that second pic from?
You need to decide first the class you are building your car for. My suggestion is looking into regional club racing events put on by NASA / SCCA and going from there.brizanden wrote:^ok thx i will email u soon. i am really interested in a nice set up cause i want to get into like a scca touring class when my car is closed to finished and i have been having a really hard time looking for some nice, but not to race oriented coils. i thought about the koni strut replacement coils and like some hks mounts but that seemed like a lot of money for just a dec setup.
You are going to be in B-Prepared, and you will be DESTROYED. You are better off using an SR or CA and running it in D-Prepared if you ever want to have a chance to win.brizanden wrote:im thinking scca prepared class club racing as they allow any engine from thte same manufactors and i want to run a rb25...
Double wishbone suspension.cracker wrote:This thread kicks ***!!!!!
Motons, Koni's, real race cars, what more could a boy ask for????
Nismo_Freak wrote:
Double wishbone suspension.
I don't understand your question.cracker wrote:Nismo_freak, do you do the work, or do know people? Just curious.
Nismo_Freak wrote:If you want to get into contact with someone that makes the custom Koni coilovers then email me at admin @ texasguntalk.com. I don't mind helping people that want good suspension.
I know someone that does them.cracker wrote:Ya, I worded it badly, and I was too vague. in reference to this. I didn't know if YOU did custom Koni coil overs, or if you know some one who does.
dam i figured that would be the case, but i really really wanna run a rb. i thought if i keep my whp below 250 i could be in d class? so if i didnt put any power adders in i could stay in d with the rb. then just do chassis work. im totally into listening what you have to say cause i really want to get into touring or time attack, but i want to run my kouki with a rb lmao.Nismo_Freak wrote:
You are going to be in B-Prepared, and you will be DESTROYED. You are better off using an SR or CA and running it in D-Prepared if you ever want to have a chance to win.
I think you will find that in a Prepared class the 240SX is not a good choice. In D-Prepared the Honda's and BMW's will run all over you, and in B-Prepared you will need binoculars to read the numbers off the 450 BHP dry-sump LS6 powered 4-way Moton shocked Z06 running 3xx+mm rubber all around.
I seriously think your car would be slow enough to be a safety hazard in B-Prepared.
You'd be better off in Time Attack.brizanden wrote:dam i figured that would be the case, but i really really wanna run a rb. i thought if i keep my whp below 250 i could be in d class? so if i didnt put any power adders in i could stay in d with the rb. then just do chassis work. im totally into listening what you have to say cause i really want to get into touring or time attack, but i want to run my kouki with a rb lmao.
Nismo_Freak wrote:
If you aren't going to track the car there is little demand for the Motons. You could get a good Koni 86xx series coilover setup made for considerably less that will be perfectly oriented to what you want.
zerothread?id=336836Sanjuro wrote:Lets start with a little history: I've owned my S13 for about 2 years now and loved every aspect of it. However the shocks came blown, and Last year I had plans to swap over to Konis. For those of you that knew, the 2812/2817s that whats his name used on his S13 for SCCA racing would probably be best, but at $800 a shock it was a little steep. Some of you might ask why not simply go with the yellows, and the response is simple - 1) i want full preload and ride height adjustability and 2) the fact that you have to have the shock out of the car to adjust the rear is rubbish.
So I looked into the 8610/8611 series: They have more or less digressive valving, comes in 240sx friendly sizes, and retails for ~$200-300 a shock. The only problem was they came as strut inserts ONLY, and one had to make housing for these. veilside180 had the right idea, but he didn't have offerings for the rear and I didn't feel like paying that much when I had access to a full machine shop myself.
K sport came out with their kontrol pro series last summer and I got on the special for $699 a set. The reason being that I was told the piston was 44.5mm, which would allow the koni to fit into the threaded housing. The plan was to gut the ksport shocks and fit the Konis in. Long and behold, the k sports showed up and they were too short. I drove around on the ksports for awhile and man they were crap (topic for a different discussion). Since the k sport housings were too short, I sourced 4 pieces of 4310 piping at 2" OD, 1.75" ID, 1' long and turned 2mm threads onto the outside (which would allow the k sport pieces to fit on.) The bottom cap was a flat piece for the 8610s, and chamfered (is that the right word?) for the 8611s. The top of the tube had 24tpi threads turned on the inside, and corresponding plugs were made out of the same material. In the end I had 4 housings that are completely serviceable, and compatible with the k sport system. The result? Amazing! With 350lb springs all around, the car is completely streetable. It no longer freaks out over expansion joints and bumps like the k sport. The ride is still stiff, but it is perfectly composed and confidence inspiring. The rebound is only turned up 3/4 of a turn, and I have another turn and a half to go! All I got to say is Koni rock!
This thread would be pointless withot pictures, I wish I took more during the actual construction phase:
Top hats modified for the 5/8 threaded portion of the 8611 to fit through
Threaded top locknut
The underside of the top locknut, notice built-in spacer to properly center the 8611/8610 within the tube
One of the 8611 fitted into the front housing. There is barely any clearence!
The bottom plug for the rear before finishing and TIG welding. The front has the machined spacer like the top plugs.
Mass assembly stage. The ksport springs were not used because they were too short, and I didn't like the staggered spring rate.
The completed set back in the box for the garage. They look completely innocent!
South Bend Heavy 10s, there are 2 more on the opposite wall. I burned the motor out on one of these turning the 2mm thread. The other side of the room had 3 south bend mills, where I drilled the holes on the top plugs for the pin wrench.
look into NASA thenbrizanden wrote:dam i figured that would be the case, but i really really wanna run a rb. i thought if i keep my whp below 250 i could be in d class? so if i didnt put any power adders in i could stay in d with the rb. then just do chassis work. im totally into listening what you have to say cause i really want to get into touring or time attack, but i want to run my kouki with a rb lmao.
yeah i seen it, but i dont wanna know if i wanna do that and b i dont have the equipment. if i went like that i would get teh hks mounts with those konis.adrians_s13 wrote:
I'm not sure if anyone saw this other thread... but some dude made his Koni 8611/8610s fit in a set of K-sports..
this is from his thread:
zerothread?id=336836
The RB is not a wise choice for road racing period. You will be fighting the suspension that much more.brizanden wrote:and to nismo freak.. so if i look into nasa i should stand a better chance with a rb? so any more ideas on what would be a pretty dec setup with the rb in front? should i just run konis like that guy above did?
i dont wanna sound like a d!ck cause i honestly dont have much of an idea but have u raced a s chasis with a rb in it? cause most of the extra weight is in the transmission which is practically in the middle of the car. also i can get carbon fenders and hood to held save some weight. and move the battery in back obviously. just doesnt seem it could be far to uncontrollable with a good adjust on some front suspension.Nismo_Freak wrote:
The RB is not a wise choice for road racing period. You will be fighting the suspension that much more.
If you are hell bent on it then I suggest a pretty open class, and making some power out of it. The OEM turbo will not last for anything if you a racing the car.
The extra weight is in the motor and transmission. There's at least 100+ lbs. of difference between an SR20 and an RB25. The gearbox is another 20 - 25 lbs. or so. The gearbox weight doesn't matter too much due to it's location, but the frontal weight on the 240 is the most crucial weight in the car. The less weight you have in the front the less you are going to fight the McStrut and tire disadvantage.brizanden wrote:i dont wanna sound like a d!ck cause i honestly dont have much of an idea but have u raced a s chasis with a rb in it? cause most of the extra weight is in the transmission which is practically in the middle of the car. also i can get carbon fenders and hood to held save some weight. and move the battery in back obviously. just doesnt seem it could be far to uncontrollable with a good adjust on some front suspension.
Then do it.brizanden wrote:^i know i know the sr makes so much more sense... but i crave rb......