why during city driving clutch peddle looses tensity half way down.

[ncdavis0110]

i have a 05 6mt and whenever i drive in the city for about a half hour the clutch peddle would stop going down with a consistent force it would go in about half way really easily then start to tense up and it makes it harder to drive. sometimes the peddle would get stuck half way this only happens when i have to stop and go. when i leave my car off for a little bit it will go back to normal what should i do

[pfarmer]

i have a 05 6mt and whenever i drive in the city for about a half hour the clutch peddle would stop going down with a consistent force it would go in about half way really easily then start to tense up and it makes it harder to drive. sometimes the peddle would get stuck half way this only happens when i have to stop and go. when i leave my car off for a little bit it will go back to normal what should i do

I would consider doing a fluid flush on the clutch with the replacement being a high quality, high temp variety.

Perry

[awdjdmtalon]

A friend of mine had the same problem on his Nismo 350Z. I can't remember if he said it was a recall or a tech bulliten. But the dealer replaced it under warranty. You may want to give your local dealer a call.

And I'm sure one of the Infiniti tech will chime in soon on this.

[Sentientbydesign]

I would consider doing a fluid flush on the clutch with the replacement being a high quality, high temp variety.

Perry

This is the "temporary" solution. I haven't found a permanent one yet. It seems that the hydraulic oil gets contaminents in it easily and it's boiling point is reduced dramatically.

The best option would be for a complete flush. Another option would be the Ranger Protocol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBbsy0LjUvE

It works, but probably wastes more fluid.

[awdjdmtalon]

Nate if what you are saying is true that the fluid is boiling. Then flush the clutch fluid and replace it with ATE Super Blue brake fluid. It is race brake fluid and has a VERY high bloing point. And while you are at it, do the brakes too. Plus you will notice that the brake pedal will be firmer too. I think a 1000ml bottle will cost you about $18 plus shipping. But one will do the job with some left over for top offs later down the road.

[Sentientbydesign]

Nate if what you are saying is true that the fluid is boiling. Then flush the clutch fluid and replace it with ATE Super Blue brake fluid. It is race brake fluid and has a VERY high bloing point. And while you are at it, do the brakes too. Plus you will notice that the brake pedal will be firmer too. I think a 1000ml bottle will cost you about $18 plus shipping. But one will do the job with some left over for top offs later down the road.

I'll look into this. My concern is that even after doing the ghetto replacement method and getting clear fluid, it's yellow-ish orange within a day or two. I'm concerned that a seal is malfunctioning, but I'm not to the point in my mechanical aptitude to start disassembling hydraulic systems.

[pfarmer]

I'll look into this. My concern is that even after doing the ghetto replacement method and getting clear fluid, it's yellow-ish orange within a day or two. I'm concerned that a seal is malfunctioning, but I'm not to the point in my mechanical aptitude to start disassembling hydraulic systems.

No fluid leaking out I assume? If not then try the high temp fluid replacement. In hydraulic systems when the fluid flashes and then condenses it will sometimes bring in contaminates. So the the number one thing is to keep it from flashing.

You may not be seeing contaminates. You may be seeing degradation of the fluid itself.

Perry

[Sentientbydesign]

No fluid leaking out I assume? If not then try the high temp fluid replacement. In hydraulic systems when the fluid flashes and then condenses it will sometimes bring in contaminates. So the the number one thing is to keep it from flashing.

You may not be seeing contaminates. You may be seeing degradation of the fluid itself.

Perry

Hmm. I REALLY want to believe that the flashing is what is occuring, BUT I can actually see what looks like fine yellow/orange "dust" swirling around the new fluid after pumping the pedal a few times. It's possible that this is "burnt" fluid and I WILL TRY a higher temp oil, but I'm still a little worried.

[awdjdmtalon]

Nate, I have had the ATE Super Blue in mine for a year now. I do a lot of stop go city, w/a fair amount of spirited driving in the mountians on the weekends. For the price of the fluid it is worth trying.

I doubt you have an issue with the clutch master or slave cylinders. You can always pull back the dust boot on the slave cyl, and check for leakage. The master ususally leaks fluid on the floorboard when they go out.

[pfarmer]

Hmm. I REALLY want to believe that the flashing is what is occuring, BUT I can actually see what looks like fine yellow/orange "dust" swirling around the new fluid after pumping the pedal a few times. It's possible that this is "burnt" fluid and I WILL TRY a higher temp oil, but I'm still a little worried.

Most of the hydraulic systems I have been associated with could get contaminates into them even through they show no signs of outward leakage. For example the D8 cats I operated would often get what looked like coal dust into the fluid but rarely had any leaks outward around the rams, etc. Hydraulic control systems for large valves sometimes had the same issues. So this may not fix you problem but certainly if it does it is a much simpler fix than the alternative and since this condition seems to occur in hot weather more often from what I see well worth the effort. Like brakes make sure the system is not open any longer than what is necessary to flush and fill.

Perry

[Ar878]

I'm getting the same problem as well. I'll ask the dealership about it and I might look into the ATE fluid awdjdmtalon suggested.

[telcoman]

i have a 05 6mt and whenever i drive in the city for about a half hour the clutch peddle would stop going down with a consistent force it would go in about half way really easily then start to tense up and it makes it harder to drive. sometimes the peddle would get stuck half way this only happens when i have to stop and go. when i leave my car off for a little bit it will go back to normal what should i do

I had a similar problem. In hot weather and stop and go traffic the clutch pedal would not come all the way up.

Dealer replaced the clutch slave cylinder and clutch fluid at 92257 miles under warranty.

End of problem and no more clutch problems since.

Telcoman