Why dont you just stop cranking???

[edpapaj13]

Hi everyone,

Well it's been a few trouble free years since I first logged in the forum. I'm having an issue that it's been a guess to everyone. I have a 1998 Infiniti I30 with 172K miles.

A couple weeks ago, my car would crank too much, and it'd take 3-4 tries to get it started with the help of the gas pedal. After a few failed attempts from mechanics or faulty starters, i decided to tow my car to the dealer. They replaced the started and the car started fine. However, when the car stays overnight and the engine is cold, when I try to start in the morning it cranks to the point where I turn the key off, try it again and it usually starts the 2nd or 3rd time but NEVER the first time I try.

Now when the engine is warmed up, I can turn the car off and turn it back on and it will start right up. So far what I have fixed:

StarterNew Yellow Top Optima BatteryIgnition switch

I have a lot of electronics but its always disconnected when I try starting the car. Those M35 are looking sweeter then ever but I really just want my car back. I can't let it go yet!

Any help or ideas would be appreciated!

[tigersharkdude]

im saying fuel pressure regulator

[edpapaj13]

Thanks for the reply. how good is the guess? I'm taking it to a mechanic saturday so if he can't figure it out maybe I can tell him what things might possibly be wrong.

[jltibbs]

I know some Nissan Computers had this problem. My buddy found this out by taking his ECU out and throwing it in the freezer. After he put it back in, nothing. Let it set outside in the sun for a while. Put the ECU back in, starts just fine. Might be an idea to try.

[tigersharkdude]

i have seen this problem with a few maxima's and altimas, thats why im saying the FPR. since you have a hard start after its been setting for a few hours, but not when its hot, is saying to me that that pressure is going down. since you are having to use the gas to build up pressure, but not when its hot is just pointing me more in that direction. im gonna say its a good guess

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Maybe the fuel pump is getting weak and it takes longer for itto pressure up

[edpapaj13]

You guys have been very helpfull! Thanks for the replies. I"m printing all the posts and take it to my local mechanic and try them out. The FPR does make sense actually the way you explained it. I didn't think it had anything to do with fuel pump, I was actually thinking it might have been electrical but I guess the FPR is easier to try it first.

[turbocat]

idle air control valve, possibly

[tigersharkdude]

^^No^^

[edpapaj13]

Is the No for the Idle Air Control Valve?

[tigersharkdude]

^^YEAH^^

[edpapaj13]

The people who said it might be the fuel pressure regulator, do you guys happen to know if that solved the problem of cranking?

[loystock]

Based on the symptoms provided, it's most likely the FPR per suggestion from "tigersharkdue." Other possibilities are fuel pump (accessible from rear seat, pax side), fuel filter (firewall, besides brake booster), and dirty air intake (air filter, MAF sensor or throttle body). Other possibility is poor ground connection (ground leads on intake plenum, adjacent to cylinder #2). Loose connections in the main engine harness may also cause starting problems.

You need a Fuel Pressure Gauge T-eed downstream of the Fuel Filter to measure fuel pressure and leak-down test. Verify fuel line is empty before breaking the fuel line - FIRE HAZARD. To do so, with the engine running, pull out the Fuel Pump fuse until the engine dies. Crank the engine at least once to ensure line is empty.

Pull out the fuel filter and then blow air thru it - there should be little or no resistance at all. If so, filter is clogged and need to be replaced.

Connect a Fuel Pressure Gauge (may be rented from Autozone) and check fuel pressure. With Ignition ON (engine not running) pump should run for @ 5 seconds and the pressure should be @ 43 PSI. Run the engine - pressure should be @ 34 PSI (goes up to 43 PSI if vacuum line is disconnected). If pressure is low, the fuel pump is failing. Shut down the engine. Pressure drops down to @ 30 PSI and should remain steady for several minutes before dropping further to @ 20 PSI. If pressure drops immediately, its a bad FPR.

Better check the condition of air filter and the cleanliness of the MAF sensor and throttle body. Clean as required. Use only zero-residue Contact Cleaner or MAF Cleaner on the MAF sensor and NEVER TOUCH the sensing element.

For the throttle body it's your call to clean it or not. Newer throttle valves are coated with anti-gunk element that could be damaged by over-cleaning. There is also a risk of damaging the valve sensor-actuator. If the TB is reasonably clean, leave it alone. If it's dirty, use Carb Cleaner BUT DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY into the throttle body (as it could damage the sensor-actuator). Spray into a rag and clean the valve and body accordingly.

Disconnect the ground leads near the intake plenum and clean them. Reconnect and then apply dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Apply dielectric grease on the MAF connector, too.

To restore engine performance, use Red Line SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner (or BG44K) every 6 months.

[edpapaj13]

Wow man, you covered all the basis!! Thanks for all that usefull information. I'm going to end up printing your info and using it as my guide. I just bought the FPR today and saturday morning i'm heading to the mechanic. Unfortunately I only know how to do a couple things of what you mentioned. So i will work with my mechanic and do them today so I don't make things worse. Honestly after all you guys told me, it should be fixed. If I have no luck, unfortunately I will keep the car and fix it eventually, trying one thing at a time but in the meantime check out some M35. I hope it wont come to that. I'm just wondering how come the dealer didn't check any of those things? They diagnosed the starter, replacing it and didn't care that it still cranked more then it should.

[tigersharkdude]

the STEALERship only worries about making money, the more the merrier.

And when you asked if replacing the FPR fixed the cranking issue. Yes it did.you should have heard what the dealer said. the said it was the ignition switch, and they would have to drop the steering column, blah, blah, blah. I was like, are you f-ing stupid. Dude also asked if the maxima wasFWD or RWD, and if it was the 2.0, 2.5 or the 3.0 version. I was like WTF, you work at a dealer, you should know they are all 3.0 FWD

[edpapaj13]

Yeah thats a pretty bad sign for a dealership, haha, he was getting all the nissan models mixed up man, Altima, Sentra, Maxima. You should have told him you had a 1.8 turbo and throw him off.

The messed up thing with the dealer is the diagnosis. They kill you man. They diagnoses that the starter was messed up and they fixed it. I called them saying that the problem is still there, they say come bring and we have to diagnose it again. I must have spend like 300-400 dollars on diagnoses from 2 dealers. When the first dealership said it was the starter and it'd cost like 700, i tried to be smart, but a new starter on ebay and get my mechanic to fix it. Which didn't work, the first and second time. After the 2nd starter wouldn't work and the car wouldn't it crank, I towed it to the 2nd dealer and got it replaced.

I wish I knew more about cars to do some things myself but i'm too worried I'll try to fix something and forget how everything goes back. The only things i've done on my car is change the interior lights hahah, i know it's pretty sad!!

[loystock]

The I30/Maxima starters are durable. The original one pulled out from your car was probably operational. In both I30s that I have, I pulled out the starters when they became 'sticky' (whining noise after starting the car). In both cases, grease on the gear had dried up and the rotor-stator were gummed up. It's not difficult to dis-assemble them - just put alignment marks so you would know how to put them back. Apply white lithium grease on the gear. Use a liberal amount of contact cleaner (or degreaser) to clean the rotor-stator. Assemble them back and it should be working again. I do test them after reassembly.

Since you are not a DIY type of person, better post your problems here, be detailed as much as possible, before taking your car to shop/dealership. That way you have an idea as to what is wrong with your car, and reduce the cost of diagnostics.

The M35 would be a very nice upgrade - luxurious interior, more power and advanced technology.

[edpapaj13]

Last time I replaced the starter was at about 40K miles so it did last 130K miles which is great. But I had the same experience, after my mechanic took out the first starter and he put another one,it made a loud whinning noise after it starter and I knew it was a matter of time that I'd have to change it. I just didn't think my car would stop working the next day compelety.

I took the car to the dealer because 2 mechanics put 2 different starters and the car didn't work, so i got desperate and went to the dealer. I honestly feel like a victim every time I go out. A few years ago when I went there for similar problem but it wasn't as bad, they told they would need around 8 hours to diagnose the problems, around $900 but I said no and I left. That's why I came here now so I can get some ideas, since i'm assuming it will be a small thing that it might fix the problem. I'll try whatever you guys told me and take it from there.

My mechanic has told me a while ago that his guess it that is a ground or a contact near the engine and transimission I think, he's pretty sure but that can't be since the car starts right up after it's warm. A contact problem would be a problem every time you start the car no matter if it's hot or cold.

I've been studying M35 or M45 for a few years, just to be prepared in case my car didn't make it to 150K miles but it did so now i'm researching again since next week will be the trial week for the car. I hope it get's fixed because I don't really want to get into the commitment and monthly payments again with another car unless I have no choice.

[snwbrdr435]

Dude also asked if the maxima wasFWD or RWD, and if it was the 2.0, 2.5 or the 3.0 version. I was like WTF, you work at a dealer, you should know they are all 3.0 FWD

How about the 3.5 maximas and the older ones?

[tigersharkdude]

no i told him the year 1999, and he proceeded to ask if it was the 2.0, 2.5 or the 3.0 and everything we have had in the US has been FWD. We dont have Cefiro's here

[edpapaj13]

Well thanks for everyone's help. I left my car at my mechanic, he took it apart all weekend, replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, made no difference, he checked the crank posistion sensor and camshaft sensors, everything worked. However he did what he's first guess was, he checked the grounding somewhere near the engine or transimission, cleaned it up, replaced the wires and he kept starting it cold or hot, it starter right up. Even when I went to pick it up car started with no hesitetion.

However, Monday morning came and the car didn't start. It was cranking and trying to start. I tried it a few times before it started. Now the same thing, car is more willing to start after engine is warm. I will keep the car around, I have about 5Grand worth of GPS, amps, subs, cap, speakers, LCD headrest, HID, rims and everything since I thought the car would last for much longer. I'm going to purchase a M35 this week and get it over with.

I was wondering though, since I have extended warranty, do you know if you can sell that back to the company or what can you do with it, if you cant use it??

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions, we tried!

Eddie