Why Does My Car Overheat?
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[GoaTSLonG]
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 7:30 am
Why The **ck Does My Car Overheat?
heres the story, I blew my motor, swapped in another sr, but this one has cams, RAS, Greddy HG, and Greddy valvesprings. I get the car back and running totally perfect, pulling hard as hell, felt sooo good, on a friday. Runs perfect, saturday, sunday i feel a loss in power, idle kept fluctuating from like 1400 steady to like 1000 to 800 bouncing to 1200. I checked all vacuum lines everythings fine there. My car is also overheating at random times, but when it does overheat i dont see any steam or smoke coming from the engine bay when i pop the hood, i dont see a real loss in power, other than the original loss, and I HATE THIS CAR. I replaced the thermostat with one from a sentra SE-R, I replaced my radiator with a brand new one, I bled the air out of the system, I replaced the cap with a 16psi one. The only last thing i can think of is timing could be off. But i have no idea how to check Ignition timing on it, or what it should even be at. If you have any ideas, or would like to take a baseball bat to it for $5 a smash, i'd appreciate it.
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SWIFT_DRIFT
- Posts: 1340
- Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2002 7:21 pm
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SpeedRacer1
- Posts: 3144
- Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:44 pm
- Car: 1990 240SX, G35
The cams will cause your idle to be screwed up, dont even worry about the idle since you cannot fix that.
The irregular overheating sounds like you still may have air in the system, or the system is loosing or blocking coolant somewhere. However you need a temperature gauge also and shouldnt live by what the stock gauges say too much.
If your car ran fine on Friday and Saturday, then I SERIOUSLY doubt your ignition timing is bad. Nevertheless, check your Camshaft Position Sensor (black focker on the forward driver side of the engine) to ensure the two screws holding it on are nice and tight. If they are loose then the timing has been changed. If they are tight, the ignition timing was the same on Friday as it was on Sunday.
To fix timing, download this , and then turn to page 171 through 177 (EC 33 through EC 40). This is the FSM for ignition timing on an SR20DET (S13 through S15).
The irregular overheating sounds like you still may have air in the system, or the system is loosing or blocking coolant somewhere. However you need a temperature gauge also and shouldnt live by what the stock gauges say too much.
If your car ran fine on Friday and Saturday, then I SERIOUSLY doubt your ignition timing is bad. Nevertheless, check your Camshaft Position Sensor (black focker on the forward driver side of the engine) to ensure the two screws holding it on are nice and tight. If they are loose then the timing has been changed. If they are tight, the ignition timing was the same on Friday as it was on Sunday.
To fix timing, download this , and then turn to page 171 through 177 (EC 33 through EC 40). This is the FSM for ignition timing on an SR20DET (S13 through S15).
water pump? And are you running stock clutch fan or e-fans? Maybe they're not turning on?
Btw, putting a higher pressure cap isn't going to help. Stick with the stock .9 bar cap. That's probably why you don't see any steam or whatever because the cap that you had put on is holding all that steam in.
Btw, putting a higher pressure cap isn't going to help. Stick with the stock .9 bar cap. That's probably why you don't see any steam or whatever because the cap that you had put on is holding all that steam in.
do you have a front mount intercooler? Cause when I was driving in the heat (I have a FMIC) it was overheating like a mofo. I figured it was because the rad wasn't gettin any cool air at all, cause the intercooler was blocking the air from passing. Mine was sinched right up to the rebar and bumper cover etc, so no air was passing at all, just whatever passed through the intercooler. I cut my bumper to allow more air to pass to the rad, and it worked like a charm.
Good luck.
Good luck.