z-monster wrote:hey kw521,
this is something i got from another site regardingthe same matter... i strongly feel its my fuel pump thats giving up so over this weekend i'm going to check out my spark plugs.. make sure that there isnt excessive carbon build up.... u should do the same.
sorry i forgot to include the quote the last time
If your tune is "on". there are only two major causes of a high boost/high rpm misfire (and a lot of little ones). Fuel and spark.
Assuming your set-up is stock, your injectors are not running maxing out at .7 bar. Is the boost/vacuum line attached to the regulator? If so, you need to install a pressure gauge in the fuel line. Tape it to the windshield. Verify that the fuel pressure rises a proportionate amount to the boost. i.e. you are running 38psi, static, (vacuum line off), if the boost goes up to 10psi, fuel pressure should be 48psi. I would put my money here. That pump is probably not up to the task. You will see boost go up, and as the revs climb, fuel pressure will go down. Pumps lose a lot of capacity as the pressure is increased. Additionally, turbo engines have a higher BSFC than NA engines.
As pressuere in the CC increases, it takes more and more spark power to jump the gap. While the stock Nissan ignition is certainly up to the task, what of the plugs? I've seen lots of high-dollar (yen) "race" plugs give up the fight pretty quick when run on a daily driver. They may run fine until you lean on them. Electricity takes the easy road; this may mean the gap until the going get's tough in the CC. Then they may leak-to-ground through cracks in the insulation, not firing the charge. El-cheapo, non platnium/iridium plugs also have a hard time playing the boost game without some back-up in the form of a CDI, etc.
Be awaer that most in-cockpit EGT gauges are very slow resopnding. Open-junction sensors are the only ones you should believe. I've put HKS, Autometer, Defi, etc against my Omega hand-held. They are usually about 200 degrees behind on the climb. Once stabilized, they are the same, but in a gear where you pass through quickly, just be aware of what's going on if the gauge is climbing. A lean misfire will cause my Omega to show 1200 c, sometimes, where the aftermarket gauges will barely register a blip. The aftermarket stopped using open junction long ago because the sensors burn out pretty quick (reletive to an enclosed junction).