Why cant I just tap the oil pan without removing?

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ppctx
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 2:40 pm
Car: 93 ka24de-t

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This may be a silly question but why can’t I just drain, drill, weld return bung onto the oil pan without removing the whole pan? Won't the oil filter catch the metal shavings that get in there? Run the car for a few miles, get an oil/filter change... I'm assuming this is a silly question because one, lots of people have dealt with this issue prior to me and two, why would anybody go thru the trouble of removing the pan if installing a bung without removal was that easy. What am I missing


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ka24eracer
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Probably to be safe , but in my case I only drilled a hole and jb welded the return bung . The oil pan stay on the car and nothing happened.

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ppctx
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Car: 93 ka24de-t

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Welcome to the forum ka24eracer! what kind of set up have you been running and what forums did you get help from while doing your install (some groups are more forth coming with help than others)?

Edit, sorry about that, you've been here for much longer than me, this is just you first post

Florida240sx
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Best thing is to have oil in the pan. Put vaseline over your drill bit and slowly keep getting bigger in size. The vaselien should catch the shavings as hey come off. What falls inside goes into the oil, which when you drian it most should be gone. Get a oil plug that has a magnet on then the end.

S13FX
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Florida240sx wrote:Best thing is to have oil in the pan. Put vaseline over your drill bit and slowly keep getting bigger in size. The vaselien should catch the shavings as hey come off. What falls inside goes into the oil, which when you drian it most should be gone. Get a oil plug that has a magnet on then the end.
If I was going to do it with the oil pan on the car thats the way Id do it.

But in my honest opinion its too easy to loosen up the engine mounts lift the engine a bit and get the oil pan out of there.

Florida240sx
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Mine I was able to jack up engine and rmeove. My freinds I had to remove the pickup. Everytime time trying to put the pickup back on I dropped one of the 3 bolts lol. Probably because of 1AM and mosquitoes

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ppctx
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I'd like to do it the right way by removing the pan but when I searched for how-to's on the subject, most people seemed to think the pan removal was a huge PITA, unless they had already done a pan removal previously, which I have not. I might not be able to get a good weld if trying to leave the pan on and have to pull it anyway

S13FX
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easy way to do it is,

Undo the engine mounts from the top, undo the one transmission bracket underneath, get good jack and start jacking slowly until the engine comes completely off the mounts, (note the engine will want to sway left and right a lot at this point), then drop the front sway bar.

This way you will have a ****eton of room to take out and put everything in comfortably.

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ppctx
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I am getting ready to do a transmission swap, so maybe pulling the pan would be best, so much work. Oh well, I can sure buy a lot of tools with the money saved by doing it myself.

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neverlift
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I just beat a whole with a center punch and the kinda forced the threads into the whole, took some time but worth the effort to not have to basically remove the engine again....

took like ten minutes...

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spooled240
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I had to drop the crossmember, disconnect the steering shaft, etc etc and yes it was a pita! If I were to do it again, I would probably just take my sweet time drilling the hole with vaseline then drain/change the oil for the heck of it... good luck man

Florida240sx
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Wait...Your doing a transmission swap? Yank the whole thing out. Do your trnany swpa oil pan clutch etc. Prep the engine for turbo

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neverlift
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Florida240sx wrote:Wait...Your doing a transmission swap? Yank the whole thing out. Do your trnany swpa oil pan clutch etc. Prep the engine for turbo
I'd steal a lift and do it that way, it will take alot less work and be cleaner. Just make damn sure to mark where(your return) before you pull it out. Again I didnt unbolt shyt to do mine, BEAT A WHOLE AND MADE THE FITTING THREAD INTO IT. JBWELD OR RTV SEALANT AROUND IT< DONE its a mustang trick IIRC thats where I saw it

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spooled240
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damn, i guess i did it the hard way..lol

One thing's for sure, if it works, it works..

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ppctx
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Do ya'll really think it would be easier to pull the engine\transmission, given that I need to do both pan and swap. I do have access to an engine hoist. Read up on a couple of how-to's on pulling engines an no one seemed to cuss about it to much

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neverlift
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just be sure all wires are undone, and the ecu harness is in the engine bay. on re install you will have the drive shaft out already so thats cake, just slide the shaft into the transmission side then bolt the four bolts that go to the pumpkin(diff).... that held me up for like 30 minutes.

man me and my father in law(75) did it in a few hours, my first time.

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Edub1
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I doubt a shaving or two in the pan would hurt anything. Pluse you could use a magnet beneath the hle to catch them and pull them out.

I don't know if a fire could burn for long inside the motor but you are defenitly looking at some flame inside your pan. JB weld might work but if it breaks you are SOL and again a fire risk. Just suck it up and do it right.

Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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I say pull engine. He needs to run piping anyways. From now on whenever do a lcutch swap it's engine pull. Takes me 30minutes to pull an engine with 2 people. Makes it so easy to install the clutch. Besides then you can clean your enigne bay, If you relocate the battery so simple. If you still have stock components then more time consuming. I have all emissions removed and ac out as well.


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