Giving this it's own thread as it presented in the middle of wheel bearing/CV work on another thread so I hijacked that one. However it's still unresolved and I'm running out of things to check.
2015 Rogue SL AWD
Symptom:
Starting at 70km/hr through 90's the entire vehicle feels like it's rapidly wobbling side to side. I won't call it a vibration because it's more violent than that. It only presents under load, and worse if accelerating uphill. Coasting through the speed range has no shake, and the second you take your foot off the gas it stops. At 100km/hr it's gone.
There are no accompanying sounds whatsoever, whether at low or high speed, and no localized vibration at the steering wheel.
Recent work completed:
Front wheel bearings, both sides
Drivers side CV axle
Drivers side lower control arm bushing.
I've gone through every repair twice over and checked everything, front end is solid.

I've also pulled the driveshaft, no change, and rotated the tires front to back to check for a balance issue, no change.

My next step is the Engine torque strut mount, but unfortunately, I can't get one locally so I won't be able to swap until the weekend. In the meantime, I couldn't find any info about how to check it to determine if it's bad or not. There isn't any way to see or get at the rubber without removing it, so is that the test? Do I pull it to check it? If so, what am I looking for? From under the vehicle I can get movement out of it by pushing up on the trans, how much should I be able to make it move?

The top motor mounts look to be in excellent condition, and I get very little movement when I try to rock the engine. Again, no clunks or noises while driving.

Anything else I can try while I'm waiting for the part? I now have access to CVTz50, but other than the fluid temp I really don't know what I'm looking for. Vstar if you're reading this you mentioned in my wheel bearing thread to check for juddering, how would I do that?
I can post a data log if that would help?

It would have hidden judder codes in it if the tranny was acting up, P17F1 or P17F0. The TCM throws them when it sees judder, but they don't light the MIL. So if CVTz50 doesn't show any codes in the TCM, it isn't judder causing the problem. It could still be a control issue, so watch the target ratio with CVTz50 while it's doing its thing. If the ratio is jumping around then something like a wonky sensor is inducing the TCM to misbehave. If the ratio stays pretty constant then the trans isn't causing the issue.

Ok thanks, no DTC's in the app, and nothing looks out of the ordinary while driving...thankfully.
Hopefully the torque strut mount solves it, other than that I'm out of ideas.

Motor mounts won't shimmy the car side to side.
Front TOP torque mount won't do that either. When the
bushings are bad in the upper and or lower torque mount,
you get a lot of engine rocking. I filled mine with urethane.
Vibrates at idle, but a huge difference in braking and
hole-shot.

You can still rock the engine with the factory mounts, the top
one is very soft. When I lean against the car, it moves a whole
three inches with the factory mounts. Barely moves a half
inch with the urethane filled mounts.

You have two other mounts that could be bad, it's usually the
lower transmission mount. Not the torque-rod, the lower
mount.


9858 = Upper Torque
4661H = Lower Left
9903 = Upper Right
9857 = Lower Torque

Check the Lower Left.

Look at how open the upper torque mount is. IT absorbs a lot
of shock and vibration, but it's sloppy when braking and
decelerating. Filling mine wth urethane, took all that mess
out. You can mistake transmission judder for the engine
rocking back and forth when braking.

An issue I have like this with my Mustang, the rims are bent
or out of round. I have also replaced EVERYTHING up front,
except the rack & pinion unit, and it still shakes. IT has to
be the rims.

Another time, a belt was broken in the tire, Camaro.

REAR uses spherical bushings in knuckle, when they go bad,
you can get all kinds of problems. I did not want another
car with them, like my Camaro had, but I had to settle
anyway. I am not looking forward to knuckle replacements
like I had with my Camaro.

Inner tier rods could cause your issue, and tie-rod ends.
If it's not the rims or tires, then it's a suspension component.

Thanks, if this torque mount doesn't do it I'll have to try the other mount. The fact that it's ONLY under load leads me to believe it's a mount issue, especially seeing as I've ruled out driveshaft. Tie rods are all solid, not loose, nothing in the front end is loose or sloppy. If I was getting it while braking or coasting I'd suspect rims etc. but it's literally ONLY when under load between 70-90km/hr, and the more load the worse it is (accelerating uphill for instance)
Where are the mounts covered in the service manuals? I couldn't find them.

EM-86:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 5%2Fem.pdf

Ah, buried in the engine removal. Thanks.
I don't see a procedure to remove the transmission mount, or even a listing for it in the removal sequence, just in the installation sequence...and even then it just says "install it"
How do you get at it to remove, or for that matter, even check it? I can see it up under the wheel well, but not well enough to check the rubber. Can't even find a youtube video on it, just the upper mounts.

At this point, it's the most likely culprit.
The torque rod didn't change anything, and I replaced the passenger side lower control arm bushing, which turns out was also separated...no change. It feels like it's getting worse though, so it's going to get parked until I can swap that trans mount next week, and if that doesn't do it, it's going to have to go in somewhere, I will officially be out of options/ideas.

All the bolts on it are from the top, but IIRC there's no way to get at all of them without removing the battery and moving the tray (and of course removing all the ductwork). I can't recall if the airbox needed to come out, I don't think so but maybe.

Here we go, I thought I remembered a bulletin about gen2 tranny mounts. This gives you a step-by-step:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/ ... 4-9999.pdf

As usual, thanks!
Just going to go ahead and order one. I really can’t see what else it could be at this point.

Well the trans mount was part of the problem at least. The shake is still there but much less, so I guess the motor mount and/or top torque rod are gone as well, maybe they went first and put more stress on the trans mount, or the other way around...who knows. To look at the old mount you wouldn't be able to tell it was gone, or even rocking in the engine bay I couldn't really tell. But when I got it off I could easily move it by hand, whereas the new one I couldn't budge. So I guess the same goes for the motor mounts. They look fine from a visual inspection, and when rocking/prying on them they appear to be doing their job, but under the weight of the engine/trans I guess it's hard to tell, unless they were so bad that there was metal on metal. Seems like the only way to really tell if they're gone is to remove/replace.

Possilble culprit may be that driver's side CV , like is ANY indication that slightly more vibrations out of L, side ??
Cause an imbalance , a RESONANT imbalance at said speeds IF was reman. AND 'they' created a " bad " CV as far as vibes go. Now I'm not trying to pretend I know if CV to be capable of what your describing?? But.........ya know

Basically a ROTATING MASS( which one? the question) has a 'window' in terms of road speeds , AND when a relatively small range , like yur talk'n seeeeeeeeems to fit the bill - An UNBALANCED ROTATING MASS / MASSES .

ie tires , CV's , driveshafts Rr , bolts/nuts ON rotating mass NOT ALL SAME - IS imbalance rare .....BUT weighty DEBRIS stuck to any said parts there-of ? .....and there-in

already replaced drivers cv, lower control arm bushings,rotated tires, pulled driveshaft... it's not in the front end. replacing engine and torque mounts today. fingers crossed.

Replaced upper engine mount and torque rod….still shaking!!! What am I missing here?!!

Have you looked at the subframe bushings and made sure all the bolts are tight?

Yep, bolts are tight (I've checked whatever bolts I can get at) the bushings seem ok, I can't really make that cradle move from underneath. If will move a very little when I push up from the bottom, but there's no looseness or play.
There is this though. It's really quiet around here today, and I've never noticed this rotational noise that I'm hearing inside the tx case. The clacking at first is me quickly rotating the wheel back and forth in opposite directions, but this sounds like a lot of "slop" to me. Would you say this is normal or abnormal?
https://youtube.com/shorts/qCQpFnwkF-E?feature=share
I had my hand on both CV's, on the axle and on the boots, and it doesn't feel like it's coming from either of those.
Again, I changed tx case fluid and it was clean, no metal.

So I can feel that sound if I take off the wheels, grip the lugs and turn the hubs. And it's worse on the passenger side, so at this point I'm just going to go ahead and replace the passenger CV. It's pretty much the only thing in the front end I haven't changed that could possibly cause it.

At least they'll match ,the new L. AND just might BE THE FIX good luck........your " ON " it !! ROTATING UNBALANCED MASSES ya .

p.s. gotta be sure NO TAR - like debris on rims , tires , EVEN CV & driveshafts and U-joints can THROW their OWN balance weights now ,......YAAAH ! Shafts got small 3/4" x 1 1/4" spot welded weights ......CAN FLY OOOOOOOOOOFFFFFF !! Look for funny little square area that's OFF color..ya .... OOF MY GOOF !! I mean a NEW weight CAN be tack welded back on by noting same dimensins , and thicknesses elsewhere on shafts, YA? Inspect lika MOFO

Not the cv. Nothing left on the car that’s spinning besides rear wheel bearings.
Officially beaten. Taking it to the shop tomorrow.

Did you look ALL inside the rims for mud ,tar clumps debris ...AND in ALL tire treads too , thoroughly ? MAN , I feeel for ya man.........

I rotated the tires front to back with no change. Then swapped out my winter tires/rims to rule out the wheels completely.
If it was a balance issue it SHOULD present through the speed range, whether coasting, cruising or accellerating. But it literally ONLY happens under load, and ONLY between 70-90km/hr. ie accelerating through that range, or increasing throttle to maintain speed uphill within that range. If you drive under 70km/hr or over 100km/hr you would never know there was anything wrong… no vibration, no noise, no error codes, nothing out of the ordinary in CVT z50.

You'll see on this site " ( ROGUE ? ) ....car has the DEATH RATTLES " , I know little about it , BUT I DO know many , many times what APPEARS to be little to NO backlash and NO APPARENT looseness , STILL a new part cures , like my front end doings onboard rack " DEEP maint, " plus outer tie rods and It blew me away ....they looked / checked satisfactorily .

NOT saying to look there , or my problem IS your problem - just that @ 70mph even MINOR wear can be deceptive as to REALLY creating dangerous performance of the suspension components ,........ya ?

When you say 70 /90kmh , could it be rpm's ?? Are the so called 'window' of range in which the problem ?? Heres a way-out , past uranus & Pluto ...theory.........What if torque converter threw a balance weight , Huuh ?
OR torque converter has , bent or warped or broke a 'fin'/blade AND HUGE vibrations felt ' center of car ' - under where you sit , literally " seat 'o the pants " BAD VIBES ?
Torque converter doing this ? I dunno I mean it's got yeeeeeears AND miles ? ya Transmission fluid do'in the Goosestep instead of the Swiss Waltz

p.s. Open that little window cover for torquing the four converter bolts - WEIGHTS (front ones at least) weights should be seen OR the OBVIOUS spots they flew from , like a Space-X launch site All 4 bolts ya got ? ONE may have LAUNCHED outta there too ? Torque 'em too while your there observing, IF some/ALL loose , gonna have "BIG vibrations" .

It’s definitely speed, not rpm. That was one of the first checks I did. Ran it through the full rpm range at lower speed and no shake.
Does that rule out torque converter?

I just came across this when searching about the torque converter. How can I tell if my vehicle qualifies? Or is it just a question for the dealer?
I’ve also never done a “voluntary” recall. How does that work? Does the dealer cover the cost? Is there a time limit to “claim” it?
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/ ... 7-9485.pdf

Did you look through that little opening where you see the flex-plate as attached to converter and you can "hand" rotate crank w/ ratchet (buddy help is best here ) spin clockwise , look for 'footprint' of a 'thrown' balance weight ANY possible place on flex-plate AND converter , PLUS check and re-tork ALL 4 converter bolts .
Probly you may (WITH HELPER) be under car and observing actual rotation , varying speeds and NOTING ANY weird vibes from that specific area ! BLOCK couple wheels ,jACK , SAFELY USE "STANDS" ..........be SAFE now.

I mean SO very , very easy check to do ...............jacking & supporting is ALL the work here now ,ya ?

p.s. You want to use a deep socket for torquing , electrical tape that deep socket to a short extension , then a ratchet . Std socket + N O TAPE .................you MAY lose a short socket dropped + hidden , stuck in the bottom of bell housing ?? Magnet may NOT reach to retrieve ....right ?? ya and socket lost like this could REALLY WEDGE itself behind converter..............................ya wanna have to separate + drop your tranny to remove it ??

Your post 8/4/23 @ 10:31 I just re-read - you say " noise click in the tx case " ......inside the tx case hmmmmm - one other thing in there that could of broke ( a tooth ??) is the differential , many FWD designs have it way over on the passenger side now , seems you also mentioned pass. side and it was ' pronounced ' much more that side ? 2015 is not old , but how many miles ?
Here's what happens to a 'diff ' ( NON - posi now) an open diff upon one wheel slips & spins fairly fast , regardless of WHICH one now - then the wheel ' sticks ' and grabs the pavement VERY VERY violently due to backlash the diff can be severely damaged . That ' SHOCK ' inside tranny can propagate to bearings , housing - not simply ltd to ONLY a diff .

Like you got SNOWY WINTERS , lot's of rain ?? With high UTQG tire ratings like 500 , 600 or more treadware # (sidewall) those tires REALLY SUCK and get wheel-spin THEN a VERY VERY violent and abrupt GRAB on the pavement WILL TRASH THE FWD PUNY DIFFS IN A WEAKLY ENGINEERED tranny ! ! .......Duh.............IS YOURS FWD .......DAH I don't know.
BUT this is'nt just FWD , RWD too , is why I'm getting one size WIDER tires and 300 UTQG Traction Michelin PS 4S (Y) speed rated " SUMMER " tires AND possibly a Quaife posi LSD (Limited Slip Differential) , or maybe a BMW clutch type for my 367 ft/lb's /367 HP 'other car'...ya know??

p.s. now I go back find music on the yuyube !

ObsessiveDad wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 08, 2023 3:33 am

I just came across this when searching about the torque converter. How can I tell if my vehicle qualifies? Or is it just a question for the dealer?
I’ve also never done a “voluntary” recall. How does that work? Does the dealer cover the cost? Is there a time limit to “claim” it?
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/ ... 7-9485.pdf

"Voluntary" means Nissan is doing it without being forced to comply by NHTSA, it has nothing to do with you. You can go to the NHTSA website and enter your VIN, it will show you all the recalls that apply to your vehicle:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

It might be time for you to get one of these:
https://www.treysit.com/english/the-sirometer/
You can get used ones on eBay for $20~30, they're what Briggs and Tecumseh use to set idle speed on their small engines. However, they're also great for locating the frequency of drivetrain shakes and vibrations. By holding the sirometer against the steering wheel while the car is vibrating, you can determine the exact frequency. If you use CVTz50 to plot the engine speed, slip revs, and trans ratio at the same time, you then have all the info you need to determine which part of the drivetrain is producing it. The diff and xfer ratios are known quantities from the FSM, so you can work backward mathematically from the engine to the wheels to find out what (if anything) in the drivetrain matches the frequency of your wobble. If nothing matches, then you know it's something in the alignment, body, or suspension. It's a bit of work with a calculator, but sometimes it's the only way to get to the bottom of mystery shakes.

Man I hope it doesn't come to that thing...
Mechanic is convinced (99% sure) it's the CV axles, even though they're new. Something about them not having any spring... not pushing back on the transmission or something...I didn't understand what he was talking about. Said they had the same issue with aftermarket CV's in some Hyundai Santa Fe models, where they ended up having to use original CV's to fix it.
Sourced a couple used axles from another 2015 so we'll see if that's it. I'm skeptical seeing as the symptoms didn't really change from the original CV's to the new aftermarket.
Macgiver, there was no metal in the fluid when I changed the tx case oil, and the splines on the ends of both CV axles looked good, not rounded off, no grooves or chips, so unless it's a part inside the tx case that doesn't engage with the axles I don't think that's the problem.