who will tune rb25 in NJ area?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
skyline084
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Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

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I have a stock S1 rb25 in my s13.
I am only running on 5 cylinders.
My injector is not squirting fuel on cylinder #5.
It's NOT the injector, rail, coil packs, plugs, igniter chip (All were switched with working ones)
Timing is good.. but I think maybe Cam Sensor is messed up?
The injectors don't click when I spin it. I have to touch it to my frame to make them squirt.
Last edited by skyline084 on Sun May 15, 2011 5:11 am, edited 1 time in total.


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StricNyne
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i am in NJ and i can help you trouble shoot your car where in NJ do u live ?

LeD ippen
Posts: 127
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx SE

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i can help too if need im near philly

the a3k
Posts: 1198
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:09 am
Car: 1996 Black S14 RB25
Location: North Jersey

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im also in nj. time for a meet lol. also interested on people that would tune the RB around the area. i know one shop in rockaway called custom car performance. most of the stuff they do is on 240's. engine swaps, tuning, etc

skyline084
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Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

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I actually figured out what was wrong with my car haha stupid injector.. As for the meet, we should def set something up. Maybe plan to meet at a track event one night, or weekend. Whenever everyone's free.

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StricNyne
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i live in perth amboy nj , hb yall

skyline084
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we should set up a meet at either Englishtown, NJ or Island Dragway

the a3k
Posts: 1198
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Car: 1996 Black S14 RB25
Location: North Jersey

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im down.

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StricNyne
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i want to get retune, i am hoping to break 500, but i gotta redo some suspension, and alignment, and couple other headaches prior

the a3k
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Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:09 am
Car: 1996 Black S14 RB25
Location: North Jersey

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i just went around my car today and it is rusted to s***. idk if im gonna part out or keep this one and completely redo it

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StricNyne
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i had a rusty shell, trust me its worth it to just buy a rust free one, i paid liek 3500 for my rust free kouki shell and i think it was WELL worth it. espically if you drive it everyday. i would just save up money on side, drive it and when you see a new shell, take your time, prep it, clean it up (paint engine bay and all that kinda stuff while it has no engine) and transfer everything and sell old rust busket to help off set cost

the a3k
Posts: 1198
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:09 am
Car: 1996 Black S14 RB25
Location: North Jersey

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Yea I'm looking for a shell now. I can do everything I. Want then swap the RB when its ready

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StricNyne
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yeah, when i get back in a week from now i am going to be wrenching hardcore i am changing my susp arms to stance or pbm or fortune, installing front sway bar, doing all my wiring

the a3k
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Car: 1996 Black S14 RB25
Location: North Jersey

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All my stance arms rods and coils should be here soon. Ill put them on the new shell and get everything ready before I swap the RB over

skyline084
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Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

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yo guys, got a weird problem.. 5th cylinder still isn't getting fuel.
I switched coils around, plugs around, injectors around and nothing.
Both wires going to the injector get 12.5v, as do the other injectors..
Took out the plug and checked for spark against frame, good.
Any ideas?

LeD ippen
Posts: 127
Joined: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:25 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx SE

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got a noid light or a 1 wire fuse tester?
check for injector pulse

skyline084
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Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:23 pm

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Don't have either, but I'll go pick up a noid light tomorrow.
What would happen if there's no pulse though.. The wiring/connectors are all good, and getting appropriate voltage.
I thought it would maybe be ECU related, but everything is still getting power.

skyline084
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No auto parts store near me has a noid light.. great.
so this is what i've tested so far.
12v grey wire on injector connector , grey wire also has continuity between it and ground on every injector. I thought the ground hooked into the signal wire somewhere but i guess not?
Took CAS out to spin and I hear the fuel system click on and off, but only when I ground the CAS to frame. The injectors don't click when I manually spin CAS either..
I pulled the plug on cylinder 1 and it was wet though.. so all the injectors are opening, except the 5th cylinder.

So I think it's either my one bad injector isn't being grounded, but haven't gotten noid light to be sure.
CAS is bad? but it's only one injector? all the others are fine.
It's not the ignitor chip, got two and both work.
Something inside the ECU for cylinder #5 injector is fried?

skyline084
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yo either of you NJ guys interested in letting me try using your ecu, cas to narrow down this problem?
I'm in west milford, nj

skyline084
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anybody know if possibly my bad injector isn't grounded good enough? and how I can add a ground to it?

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StricNyne
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hmm i got extra inj, and the car uses the ground to control how the inj sprays, so you NEED the ground from the ecu and it cannot goto any ground

skyline084
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Yeah I ended up reading a article on how injectors work.. i have spare injectors though, it's not them. There are 3 grounds for the injectors that plug into the ecu, all are wired, grounded correctly.
All my wiring is done correctly, so i'm hoping it's my cam sensor.. it acts weird when I spin it. If not, ecu maybe. But I don't think it's the ecu b.c all wires/sensors get appropriate voltage. Plus I pulled it apart and checked the continuity between the pins and the circuit board, all good.

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StricNyne
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i have a spare CAS, and my ecu is a standalone so its not a pnp affair

l0nestar
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In place of a Noid light, you can use a circuit test light and watch the bulb pulse. It works the same way.

skyline084
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Thanks, but I have a CAS being shipped to me, so hopefully that solves the problem. If not, maybe I'll look into upgrading my ecu.

skyline084
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Okay, fixed my problem. Running on all six. Now to the next problem..

The motor will cut out once it's running hot, usually starting at WOT.
I've seen many threads who have the same symptoms as I do.
It cuts out, comes back, cuts out than will stall.
Then it doesn't want to fire up, so I let it sit for a minute.
It will drive, but will than go through the same process as before.. cuts out,comes back then stalls..

I switched my igniter, it was sitting on the valve cover.. so I thought it got too hot. But that did nothing.
I have a spare MAF, but I don't see why that would start to malfunction under high temps.
I have buddies who run the same plugs as I do, with same gap.. with no problems.
I wrapped my coil packs in electrical tape too. If I were to guess it would be my coils... but how do you guys go about testing this stuff when you're driving?
It revs fine in neutral, so I can't do it from outside the car..
sry for the long post :)

skyline084
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Oh and I pulled the plugs and there white, so I'm running pretty lean.

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StricNyne
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or too hot
bkr7e is the bomb

skyline084
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it was my cam sensor

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StricNyne
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whew they r expensive too, i got a couple spares for just that reason heh


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