Who's installed a remote starter kit in there Infiniti?

[GreenQ45a]

I got a kit for Xmas last year and never installed it.

I saw one with a LCD screen that reads inside temp and sold my old one to a friend (the one who bought my Red Maxima) and got the newer one.

I want to install it in the next week or so and wondered if there was any advice or input from my fellow Nico-nion's.

[metaverse3]

I just put one in my J30.. an autopage RS-850 LCD..the one with the temp indicator.. The q45 is probably easier with the room available due to the size of the car.. The J30 is not user friendly for alarm installs.. I had to remove the front fender well under cover to guide the siren wire since there is no way to drill into the firewall..not even a wire loom that runs into the engine area up high....everything comes in to the engine bay from a much lower perspective...

Just check to make sure you don't have the 2 starter wires that typical nissan cars have.. My J30 does not have it.. Here is a good site for wiring diagrams.it mirrors Directed electronics (DEI) website. http://www.7thgencivic.com/wiring/

Good luck..

[Jesda]

Sounds like a royal pain. Including tax and installation, my remote start/keyless was $290.00 including horn beep. CrimeStopper II installed by Aspen Sound in Spokane WA.

Make sure your water pump, thermostat, cooling lines, and radiator are in good working order.

[GreenQ45a]

DEI was the company that made the one I got for Xmas.

I thought there 2-day only access was WACK.

I was gonna install it on a friday and noticed that my oil pressure sending unit was leaking as well as the rocker (valve) cover's.I dug into the engine instead.plus I could not get my armrests off.So the remote starter got put on the "back burner".

Now its cold again and its going in.

Thank for the wire index link I will need it.

[metaverse3]

Royal pain barely begins to describe it.. I also installed a Pioneer Nav Sys 910 GPS/DVD unit in dual din style in it... I still owe some pics..which I will get them here hopefully soon

I've installed a bit of alarms/remote starters over the years. Make sure you situate your alarm brain first..even before you mount the siren..then guide the wires to where you need them to go, towards doorlocks, parking lights, horns etc etc. I look at it this way, you can always trim excess wire rather than come in short. When you mount the siren, try not to guide the siren wiren to it...i.e.. don't make the siren wire visible in plain sight. First rule of stealing an armed car is to pop the hood and cut the siren wire. Don't run the alarm brain power wires directly to the battery. Another thief tactic is to cut these as well, thus defeating the alarm brain. Run them to the constant 12V wire found at the ignition key unit. Mount the brain in a hideaway location. I usually mount them behind dashboards, space in the radio pockets, behind glove boxes etc. Secure the brain as well..use velcro, tie-wraps, duct tape etc. I don't fly for the "stick your alarm brain high up in the dash" nonsense. I'm not a fan of suspended objects, especially in dash areas where they can falldown, short circuit, or worse, tangle into steering columns, brake pedals etc. Also, use a multimeter to test and verify wires before connecting anything.. I use a pen style SOAR multimeter.. Do not use a test light..especially in a car with airbags..regardless of who argues otherwise.. Also solder your wires if you can..especially ignition wires. Or, you can use 3M scotchlok quick splice, T-taps, and Bullet connectors to get the job done. I personally use 3M Bullet connectors on ignition/starter wires and tape them off with black duct tape or Electrician's tape. I use T-taps to tap into doorlock wires and door triggers..and quick splices for parking light wires etc. Use split loom tubing to run wires so they are neatly organized and look like factory wiring. If you have never crimped before, learn to do so. There is a right way and a wrong way. I have learnt with experience, advice, and practice. A lot of folks advice against t-taps, and quick splices. I use 3M parts and in 8+ years never had to redo an alarm/starter install yet..including many of my own. Choose the path you would like to take. Check out some sites and read up if you are not experience. These are good sources of info and knowledge. http://www.the12volt.comhttp://www.inst ... =forum;f=3 and http://forum.sounddomain.com/f...ne=10

Lastly, I installed an Autopage RS-850 2-way in the J30. The current model is RS-855. http://www.autopageusa.com. This alarm has everything you can imagine to do a security/remote start combo on any car. Built in relays, temp sensor, pager sensor, shock sensor with glass sensor. Two-way lcd communications and these are just a few to mention..the range is not shabby either..started my car from my mailbox, six blocks away! It also has numerous programmable options such as factory arm/disarm, turbo timer, stater disable/anti-grind, dual pulse priority locks so you can keep you factory remote style feature of unlocking the drivers side first and then unlocking the remaining doors if needed. etc

Good luck and post here with any questions if you need help.
Modified by metaverse3 at 6:22 AM 11/15/2004

[Q451990]

The best advice I can give you is to have the car's factory service manual http://www.iposer.com/TBO/Niss...0Q45/ on hand. I took a week or more to install mine, but also installed a new MP3 Player, and spent a great deal of time integrating the aftermarket alarm with the OEM alarm. Plan on several days at least...

If you don't have a basic understanding of 12v circuits and how to read schematics in the service manual - pay for the installation. It's not worth the pain and heartache of burning up an expensive module. I think I'm pretty good with this stuff - and I still turned a CD changer into a toaster oven (looked like it anyway) once. Whoever thought using a red wire for ground was a good idea....

Good luck!

Heath

[metaverse3]

The factory manual is indeed useful to show you how to remove panels, trace wire(s) and where computers/modules are located..such as anti-theft, door lock timer etc etc.

Q45's factory alarm arm/disarm is tied into the door lock/unlock circuit. This is according to DEI's wiring website linked above. You are lucky in this instance since this must be a change in the way nissan wired 94's and later infiniti's. Your install won't even require a seperate factory arm/disarm wire for the aftermarket unit you are installing. Just connect the door lock and unlock wires...you should be fine. The J30 had seperate arm/disarm wires at the anti-theft unit. I had to tie them in to arm/rearm the car as needed.

Take some time out to read and familiarize yourself with the task..it will make things a lot easier. I do agree if you are not comfortable, don't attempt this..you can indeed fry some expensive computers and modules, or worse, the wiring..then you can't blame anybody (insert best buy, circuit city, chosen alarm shop here) except for yourself

[GreenQ45a]

Thanks for the advice.

I was a Aerospace Propulsion Tech USAF(Jet Mech), Computer Tech 12+yrs, Board level tech 5+ yrs (solder tech), Tech freak 25yrs.

I mod XBOX's for fun late @ night. Very handy with "The Iron".

I'm not to worried about the install aspect of it. (how to solder and crimp)more the "Infiniti only tips". (Don't touch this wire are the airbags will deploy)

So please keep um coming.

[metaverse3]

lol.. I think you are overqualified for this job.. Just remember the yellow wires (usually yellow loom tubing) with yellow connectors are airbag wires.. Stupid Nissan/Infiniti likes to mix waylaid wires with airbag wires sometimes.. For E.g. on the J30, i was hooking up the horn trigger wire for the aftermarket alarm and I could not find it.. 20 minutes later I decided to look in the airbag connector for the steering wheel and there it was.. That was indeed the last place I thought of looking..

Read those websites..very good installers and tips. Post here.I will help you.. If you are on the east coast..maybe I could help in person.. Tri-state area..

[GreenQ45a]

Meta--

I have tried to take off the door panels once before when I dropped my DL in the window seal

I have pressed with all my weight (140+) in the center while pressing back.

They won't budge.

Did you tap into the door lock system in the door or the wire harness in the kick panel.

If not do you thinks its a good idea?

[szh]

My Nissan's Loved and Lost:1993 Charcoal\Grey Q45 (RIP)

From your sig, out of curiosity, what happened to it?

Z

[metaverse3]

I don't think you have a door lock timer..if it is 1994 and newer, it is Body Control module. Take a look at BF-18 in the Factory service manual for 1994. It tells you how to remove the door panels. I studied the BCM wire diagram for a bit..looks like the car has the door panel switch in each door which goes to an individual module which rests finally at the bcm through data lines. That is probably why the wiring diagrams advise you to grab lock/unlock wires att the main door before it hits the BCM since it converts to data line/bus protocol when it hits the BCM.. You are basically issuing a raw command to lock/unlock before conversion.

There is a way to get the lock/unlock at BCM in Nissan/Infiniti's if you look at this post for a 2004 Maxima http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ul...02070

Sadly, I don't know how it applies in this case to your Q45. Maybe posting there might help your cause.. I'm disappointed myself since I was interested in a Q45 and I always install an alarm/remote start in my automatic transmission vehicles for convenience and securiity. This door panel access is a pita..

[GreenQ45a]

I'm gonna do a write-up about her(93Q).

Right now I'm working on an animation in Maya (3D Animation App) to show what happend.

Words don't do it justice.

In a nut shell:

I got a "Dealer Maintained", "One Owner",perfect condition inside and out 1993 Q45 (base) for a steal.

ALL the longterm work had been done:Plenum Hoses @ 65,000+Chain Guides, Plugs, SRS replacement, every TSB had been checked off through Infiniti' Mainfram Database (I mean everything)I had Blues and a .5in drop from the springs.

Anyway, It was August and they had just finished a Freeway project that replaced4.5 miles of our highway and installed a barrier to seperate the two directions of the Highway. @ the end of the city where you cross into the foothills(I live in the mountians) it is very man made material.the new portion of the highway just let the water pool up it has a bad drainage system.

After a flash rain dump it dropped like 4 inches in 25 mins.

I was on the inside lane (fast lane) and saw the pool of water and tried to get over and some a$$*le in a 87ish Ford F-150 was on my right was speeding up with me and slowing down (@my pace) like we were racing or something.

Yes I had my turn indicator on.

He wouldn't let me over so I had to go through it @ about 80MPH.got halfway through the pool the"IT Happend"

The car hydroplaned spun around once and was going backwards in the fast lane (about 65MPH) GRINDING my Q's pass side into the new barrier about a 1\32nd of a mile....then the cars mirror caught on the wall and spun us out the other way. now I'm still going backwards but on the other side of the highway GRINDING the drivers side this time. I came to a stop when we went backwards off the road where a fence post help us to finally stop.

It was quite nice almost like watching a movie.The Q45 can take a hit!

Damage:one broken tie-rod end.bumper damage on the sides.a little bit of front right fender damage.2 mirrors (which REALLY SAVED the rest of the body).the outside turn indicators.All four tires.and a break caliper.Bent the frame only .5 inches!!! (My dad always said "Once a frame is bent it's bent"!)

Anyway they towed it to the dealer so I could a quote on repair.The Infiniti tech recomended a great shop that my dad said as well.so I took it there.

the Ins company gave me 5,000 for only 3,300 in repairs.while it was in the shop I had 4 yes 4 offers on the cars.

Most of the bodymen had never heard a Nissan DOHC VVT V8.

The car was finished in 4 weeks.

Got it back..

She didn't fell the same

I drove it for a week and I was sad. Not happy like you should be after driving a rental car for a week and getting back your Q.

I called up Rick (one of the bodymen that tuned Honda's) and told him he could buy the 4.5 DOHC VVT V8 Nissan.

He understood really understood what DOHC and VVT was all about.

The wreak showed my one thing more than any other:

"The Q45 is a TANK." Jeremy M Sandoval

That wreak would have ripped a normal car to shreds.I now understand why the PHG50 (President) is STILL an embassy car in Japan!!

Looking back I actually enjoyed this wreak and my friend think it was me who saved there lifes (good driving reflex's) but it was HER my 1st Q

She's in Cali now. She worked just fine. She could even be on the road.

But she was never the same.

I could have kept her but I wanted a "t" or an "a" anyway.

I guess RIP not really that appropriate....

[GreenQ45a]

Right in the middle of the install.

need to do the +light wire.and need to run the hood pin.

before I can test the system.

according to : http://www.7thgencivic.com/wir...nge=1

parking lights + is @ the dimmer switch.parking lights - is @ the steering column.

which does the remotes lights on go to?

can I just splice into the stock hood pin?

need answers quick sun went down (got lots of light)its getting cold.

[metaverse3]

Do not touch the dimmer. Rheostat setup..dangerous..can mess up with direct voltage. Touch it at the steering column like I did. I can tell you I just probed the wire that showed 12volts when the parking lights came on and used that one instead as a positive parking wire and it works fine on the J30 I installed it on.

As for the hood pin, get a multimeter and the wire that shows ground when the hood switch is up is the wire you need to tap into. According to the diagram on 7thgen civic it says hood trigger is at BCM. Did you try it there, or, you'd just rather avoid it ? Either way..hope this helps.

[GreenQ45a]

metaverse3

Great minds think alike.

I to went with the steering column.

I will post some pic's later here's one.

[GreenQ45a]

All spliced in and wrapped up!

[GreenQ45a]

Bump

[GreenQ45a]

IT WORKS

Its was cramped @ times only 1 bandaid needed.

Not that hard. Just took a while.

-------------------Wes, can go into more detail for Q45.org if you want.

Got lots of pics.

[GreenQ45a]

I still need to intergrate the power doorlocks (also includes Factory Alarm) and trunk poping.My Infiniti FOB still does these so Sunday I will finish the Doors.I cannot remove the door panels I have the FSM (Thx metaverse3)I could remove them on my old 93 Q45 I know how it just wont budge and I don't want to scratch the leather MAN.

Then I can give the Infiniti FOB to Cindy (my Girl ) for lockouts.

Thanks for all the help so far.

still need:

open door panels and ,wire dome light trigger.

and horn that I went without for now.

Gotta go put her back together,

[metaverse3]

It's alive..

Good to see you got it working.. It is a work in progress.. Keep her coming. Nothing pleasing as a job well done.yourself..

[GreenQ45a]

What should I set the crank timer to 0.6sec work's when she warm.@ 0.6 it takes 2 try's when its -30 degrees.

I set it to 1.4sec and it seems ok when cold, I just don't want to ware on my starter.

PS

Any ideas on what to do with the other 6 Aux outputs the system has.

One for the sunroof open, one for all windows up,the 94 rolls down the drivers and front pass windows by holding down the unlock on the Infinitini FOB (I would think that holding the unlock on the new system's LCD remote would do the same thing because in uses the door lock'sto arm the system), and one to auto power on the computer I'm building for the Q45a.

That's only 3!!

[diamond]

good job,i love autostart.i drive so little now i think im going to program a weekly start,lol