Who's got a fender roller to lend?

[RobertsnewQ]

Anyone got one of the Eastwood rollers? I'd like to do the job on my Q's fenders. The tiny bit of rubbing is annoying me. I do like the way the wheels look flush with the fenders, though.

[blind6]

I have a Louisville roller!!!

[Falkdesigns]

Certainly, a wise guy eh??

I don't have one, but I'd tell you to go to STi Motorsports in Culver City - I did a bunch of design for them, or Torrance Autokraft - they rolled my fenders for me. Depending what's closest to you, I'd just have one of them do it.

[Rex]

Posting just for reference

No offence, but why pay someone to do something so easy?

Here's what you need:

Hammer, small propane torch, a shop rag and patience.

Step 1: Simply take your wheel off, heat up your fender lip with the propane torch (make sure it's a low flame, and you keep it moving over the area you are going to be rolling) Using a torch is not necessary, however, it will help prevent paint chipping/cracking during the process. (On that note I was able to stretch my s14 fenders out about 10mm WithOut cracking the paint at all by using this method, and a eastwood fender roller) *Also, remember you have a plastic fender liner on the rear aswell as the front, I would suggest removing it, however, if you want to keep it on just be aware it's there when using the torch.

Step 2: Take a shop rag and place it over the end of the hammer you will use to hit the fender lip with, this will also help prevent paint chipping.

Step 3: Begin to tap the fender lip upwards, I've found that Q45's have some pretty stout metal here (in the rear), and it may take a little force (here's where the patience comes in) but, take your time and go slow it will roll just fine. If your doing the front fenders, it'll be a breeze, the metal is very pliable.

After a couple min, reheat the fender, as the metal will move easier when it hot, and the paint will have much much less tendancy to crack.

That being said, I know there are a lot of scarry words in this post like hammer and torch, however, I've done this many times and on 2 different Q's (a G50 and a Y33) and both turned out great. Don't let those scarry words throw you, it's very easy and can turn out great if you take your time (can't stress take your time enough..lol)

I have an eastwood fender roller, and I prefer this method simply becuase I've found it's faster and easier.

I wouldn't suggest using a bat, but if you do please heat your fenders before doing so.

<NOTE: Added some bold for emphasis.>

[maxnix]

Maybe NICO could add one to their lending library, if it's not too expensive to ship around.



This professional quality fender lip rolling tool is designed to maximize the wheel well clearance when upgrading to a larger Tire & Wheel Package or when installing fender flares. Can also be used to repair wheel area damage.

The rolling tool fits all four- and five-lug wheel hubs up to 120mm bolt circle with hubs up to 72.5mm. Includes dished washers and vehicle lug bolts. Forming arm adjusts from 14" to 22-3/4" to roll lips flat. Delrin® ball bearing system forms the fender without damaging the paint. Heavy steel powder coating. Limited one-year warranty.

The Tire Rack recommends using the Steinel IntelliTemp™ Heat Gun with the Fender Lip Rolling Tool to minimize the potential for paint damage during use.

$299



Steinel professional-grade heat guns have built a reputation for using state-of-the-art technology to maximize precision, durability and long life.

The IntelliTemp Heat Gun is ideal for use with a fender lip rolling tool as well as applications requiring precise control such as shrink wrapping, window tinting and paint removal. Steinel's electronic thermocouple temperature sensor is what sets these heat guns apart. This feature continuously monitors and adjusts output to maintain a consistent temperature and avoid overheating. The LCD display indicates both target and actual heat output adjustable from the cool air stage to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit in 10-degree increments. Airflow is adjustable, too, up to 17.6 cfm.

The tool's impact-resistant housing and double insulated rubber power cord are excellent safety features. Carrying case includes accessory nozzles.

Other specifications: 1,500 watts output 120 VAC / 60 Hz voltage UL / CSA certifications One-year warranty

$199

Why I am glad I am not a woman. The price of vanity is pretty high.

[RobertsnewQ]

Well, I've done enough body work on various restoration projects over the years to know I don't really have the patience to do it myself with a hammer. Now if I was repainting the car it would be very different.

Thanks for the tip, Falk. Any idea how much they usually charge?

[AZhitman]

I have ordered one. Should arrive in a week.

No heat gun though...

[Falkdesigns]

At STi Motorsports, probably around 70-80 bucks or so, and I'd guess around the same at Torrance Autokraft (don't know exactly cause I didn't have to pay). If you decide to go to either shop, let me know and I'll tell you who to ask for.

[RobertsnewQ]

I have ordered one. Should arrive in a week.

No heat gun though...

Let us know when you're ready to lend it out.

I have a harbor freight heat gun but no fine temp control.

[blind6]

I was joking around, I never knew that tool existed.......hahaha That woulda helped when we rolled my friends MR2 fenders.

[one ton garage]

Before rolling, use a sharp razor blade and score the paint on the fender lip (run a line across the lip, lengthwise)... this is to prevent the paint from cracking past that line... and the paint cracking is inevitable if you plan on rolling more than just a smidge. Then lay a strip of tape along the lip, and roll away... take your time, and things should turn out a-ok

[Rex]

Do you mean on the transition between the under side and the visible lip? Is this if you plan on only rolling, but not pulling? Any suggestions on how to "re-seal" that area to deter rust?

Just looking to get some good info together for people looking to DIY.

[one ton garage]

Yah the score line should be on the horizontal part of the fender lip... I actually usually prefer to just remove all the paint on the inner lip once rolled and/or pulled, and use something like POR15 on the bare metal... it'll make it tough as nails, and it's black (not that it matters *that* much since it's on the inside and won't be seen anyway)

[maxnix]

Seems like if one goes too deep the galvanizing could be scored to the detriment of the body.

[one ton garage]

Going "deep" would be a misnomer when rolling fenders, since your goal is not to gouge the metal, but to just flatten-and essentially, stretch-the fender lips. Also, the fender rolling tool uses a delrin (plastic) wheel, so it can't really do much damage if used properly.

[Rex]

I think Maxnix was referring to "scoring the paint too deep", but from what I read, the trick is to break the surface tension, maybe a little more than that, but you're goal is to create a "stopping line" if the paint was to start cracking.

I need to look at the inside of my "newer" Q as they inner edges feel rolled and see how they look.

Good discussion

[redmanfx]

Maybe NICO could add one to their lending library, if it's not too expensive to ship around.



This professional quality fender lip rolling tool is designed to maximize the wheel well clearance when upgrading to a larger Tire & Wheel Package or when installing fender flares. Can also be used to repair wheel area damage.

The rolling tool fits all four- and five-lug wheel hubs up to 120mm bolt circle with hubs up to 72.5mm. Includes dished washers and vehicle lug bolts. Forming arm adjusts from 14" to 22-3/4" to roll lips flat. Delrin® ball bearing system forms the fender without damaging the paint. Heavy steel powder coating. Limited one-year warranty.

The Tire Rack recommends using the Steinel IntelliTemp™ Heat Gun with the Fender Lip Rolling Tool to minimize the potential for paint damage during use.

$299



Steinel professional-grade heat guns have built a reputation for using state-of-the-art technology to maximize precision, durability and long life.

The IntelliTemp Heat Gun is ideal for use with a fender lip rolling tool as well as applications requiring precise control such as shrink wrapping, window tinting and paint removal. Steinel's electronic thermocouple temperature sensor is what sets these heat guns apart. This feature continuously monitors and adjusts output to maintain a consistent temperature and avoid overheating. The LCD display indicates both target and actual heat output adjustable from the cool air stage to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit in 10-degree increments. Airflow is adjustable, too, up to 17.6 cfm.

The tool's impact-resistant housing and double insulated rubber power cord are excellent safety features. Carrying case includes accessory nozzles.

Other specifications: 1,500 watts output 120 VAC / 60 Hz voltage UL / CSA certifications One-year warranty

$199

Why I am glad I am not a woman. The price of vanity is pretty high.

I love it!! This is a must for me!! Where do I sign up to use this????? I love you guys!!

red

[RobertsnewQ]

I'm actually going to take mine to a body shop now - the magazine is paying for it so I can afford to go pro.

I also discovered that on the front I'm not rubbing on the fender lip but rather on the liner.

There's a little "bump" on the outside edge of the liner that rubs a little. Maybe I can flatten it out with a heat gun...

[sijoko]

I also discovered that on the front I'm not rubbing on the fender lip but rather on the liner.

There's a little "bump" on the outside edge of the liner that rubs a little. Maybe I can flatten it out with a heat gun...

I had the same problem. I removed the screws holding the liner at the top of wheelwell and just pushed the liner up further till it caught the back side of the wheel lip. I also trimmed a bit of the liner where there was a little rubbing.

I wouldn't advise this mod for someone who lives in the Snow Belt since salt could accumulate in the wheelwells now, but you should be good to go in Sunny California.

[elwesso]

I jsut took mine off, robert.. been that way for a few years and nothing bad has come of it.

[Q45CALIBER]

I plan to give mine a few coats of rustoleum. I have had the liner off for a while. I just reinforced the harness with duck tape. Then I had two hooks welded inside the frame to raise the harness ( on driver and passenger side) further up and to secure it so it does not rub the tires.

Also I took Silicone and blasted the areas where the harness runs into the engine bay for added protection from salt.

No rubbing. Now I can put the Custom Cali's back on!