Who's actually DONE an LS1 / 240SX swap?

V8 240sx? Sure! If either the chassis OR the engine is non-Nissan (i.e. SR20 in an RX-7 or LS1 in a 240sx), we've done it.
User avatar
okis14
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 12:35 pm
Contact:

Post

GTR PrYdE wrote:I'm guessing 3" to the Y then 4" outlet/tip
Yup.

I just got word from the makers of the kit.http://www.sikky.com/products/...240sx

Here is the information I got from them.

SIKKY LS1 240sx Mount Kit

Features:-No cutting required to cross member or transmission tunnel-Direct drop in mount kit that allows the LS1 to bolt in as easy as a factory motor-Large capacity aluminum racing pan with baffles and trap doors to help prevent oil starvation. -Extremely high quality parts 100% made in the USA-Kit allows for lowest mounting possible with plenty of hood clearance to allow use of the factory hood.-Fits S14 chassis

Kit Includes:Aluminum Race Oil Pan Features:- 7 quart high capacity design, -6061 CNC machined flanges-Baffle and trap doors to prevent oil starvation-Remote mount Filter Kit with -10 AN fittings and stainless braided line

Engine Mounts Features:-CAD/CAM designed CNC machined solid 6061 T-6 aluminum mounts -Urethane Bushings -High Grade Hardware Kit -Proper Engine Placement and Axle Alignment -Lifetime Warranty on engine mounts Transmission Mount Features: -CAD/CAM designed -Steel mount bracket -Urethane bushing -High Grade Hardware kit -Lifetime Warranty on transmission mount

Driveshaft Features: -Steel One Piece Driveshaft with high strength U-joints

Complete kit price: $1750 Additional Items Available:-Power steering line kit-Solid Aluminum Bushing replacements for Urethane bushings-1 piece Aluminum Driveshaft

Coming Soon:-4 to 1 long tube style Mild steel race headers designed for LS1 in S14
Modified by okis14 at 7:41 PM 5/10/2008


AeroSS_87
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:05 pm
Car: 1990 240sx 5sp hatch
Contact:

Post

Has anyone successfully retained a/c in a swap like this? particularly an s13 chassis, btw. I sent an email with a few questions to DAFT with no return.

Also, what do you guys recommend for radiator/fan setup?

I'm shooting for this winter to start this swap, with the goal of mid-late summer next year to be complete. I can't imagine not being able to succeed that since I'm out almost every night with my other hell project.

Keep up the great work gentlemen.

Blown240sx
Posts: 1963
Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2005 3:20 pm
Car: 1996 240sx

Post

AeroSS_87 wrote:Has anyone successfully retained a/c in a swap like this? particularly an s13 chassis, btw. I sent an email with a few questions to DAFT with no return.

Also, what do you guys recommend for radiator/fan setup?

I'm shooting for this winter to start this swap, with the goal of mid-late summer next year to be complete. I can't imagine not being able to succeed that since I'm out almost every night with my other hell project.

Keep up the great work gentlemen.
A/C is just wiring and custom lines. Not horribly hard.

Radiator I used KA Koyo, FAL dual pushers 3000cfm.


mmdb
Posts: 118
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2003 11:54 pm

Post

Wow very good work! Very straight forward install should save a lot of time and money. Just for heads up, my LS1->240sx s14 cost about 4k and it took me a month to get back. With this kit you can save a lot of time and money. Btw LS1 power does not disappoint, even in stock form!

Ls1pwr
Posts: 255
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 2:02 pm

Post

i just purchased a daft innovations kit. the guy rich who makes these kits is very busy and takes a little while to return email's, if u want to talk to him or contact the company simply pick up the phone and dial. i will post pictures of my entire install and removal of the trash ka24de that haunts the engine bay.
AeroSS_87 wrote:Has anyone successfully retained a/c in a swap like this? particularly an s13 chassis, btw. I sent an email with a few questions to DAFT with no return.

Also, what do you guys recommend for radiator/fan setup?

I'm shooting for this winter to start this swap, with the goal of mid-late summer next year to be complete. I can't imagine not being able to succeed that since I'm out almost every night with my other hell project.

Keep up the great work gentlemen.

Blown240sx
Posts: 1963
Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2005 3:20 pm
Car: 1996 240sx

Post

Sorry but I never thought the mounting kit was that hard to make.

Also KAs are good motors just under powered compared to an LS1. 5.7/2.4 go figure.

rb25crazy
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:04 pm
Car: 1997 miata

Post

man, all this stuff is awesome i want a LS1 v8 in my kouki now haha.... any idea about wiring though? i want it to be obd2 complaint since this will be my daily driven car hehe. and i want to be able to make it street legal so even if the cops pull me over they can't do sheeeeeit... i live in so-cal so you know how them cops are.

rb25crazy
Posts: 184
Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:04 pm
Car: 1997 miata

Post

oh yea, anyone know what items i'd need exactly to get? when i do this swap aside from the ls1/t56 tranny. i'd need a full uncut wiring harness and the ecu as well? any other things i'd need from the donor car?

Ls1pwr
Posts: 255
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 2:02 pm

Post

depending on the kit you purchase the parts required will vary.i have the daft innovations kit, i also purchased: ls1 gto oilpan and pickup tube, fuel pump, fuel filter, mishimoto radiator, master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch fittings, lots of 3" mandrel bent pipe, k&n filter with 4"to3.5" intake elbow, and im sure im forgetting a few things aswell.

User avatar
martins_240sx
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch, 1975 280z, 2005 F150 fx4

Post

for those of you that have completed the swap...what are you doing for gauges? speedo, tach, etc?

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

custom panel with autometer gauges.

kinda see it here


User avatar
martins_240sx
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch, 1975 280z, 2005 F150 fx4

Post

well you convinced me. when I get back off my next deployment this is going to be in my hatch...how about the blinkers and lights. did you use any of the stuff from the s-13. and have you had any problems since its been running

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

i didnt keep any of my s14 blinkers/lights through the factory controls. its all on a switch panel.

and no, its been in for over a year with very very minimal issues.

User avatar
martins_240sx
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch, 1975 280z, 2005 F150 fx4

Post

thats awesome, do you think that it is possible to run the electric controls without the switches. if you just implemented the ls1 wiring harness to the lights. or you used the original wiring harness for these?

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

the engine has nothing to do with your body wiring. my car is a full track car and i built a new body harness for it.

you can use all the factory controls for lights.

User avatar
martins_240sx
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch, 1975 280z, 2005 F150 fx4

Post

oh ok but do you need the ecu to run these

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

..yes you need a gm ecu...

User avatar
martins_240sx
Posts: 1414
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:19 pm
Car: 1990 240sx hatch, 1975 280z, 2005 F150 fx4

Post

oh I know you would need that, I was referring to the nissan ecu

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

the nissan ecu is for the nissan engine/cluster.

nothing else.

mirochuki13
Posts: 823
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:37 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Leonia, NJ
Contact:

Post

okis14 wrote:
okis14, do you have any measurements of how far the Sikky oil pan extends below the crossmember or how much ground clearance there is with your current ride height? I was seriously considering getting the Sikky kit for an S13 LS1 swap but am hesitant now seeing how low the oil pan is.

Also, does anyone know if the Hinson long-tube headers or Daft headers will clear everything when using the Sikky kit?

User avatar
95lstegman
Posts: 501
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:09 am
Car: 1989 570SX, 2005 Acura RSX, 1994 Toyota Corolla

Post

not to be mean, but i will say that i've seen a LOT of failed designs when it comes to oil pans. there's a LOT more to it than people seem to think, and almost all of the custom pans (ones not designed by good/big pan designers like Moroso etc.) end up with oil starvation issues under some maneuvers (or all high-G maneuvers perhaps), low max flow due to fitment of the pickup in the bottom and against any baffles, windage issues, or other such things. it looks to me like overall it takes care of most of the major oiling issues that would kill the engine during normal operation, although it looks like there isn't anywhere near enough baffling for the pickup. i'm not 100% sure that i'm qualified to make the call, but i would be concerned if you intend to race your car. once you've mounted the engine with this pan, you'll be stuck using it, or a VERY expensive one-off that fits similarly, which might suffer the same pitfalls anyways since it would have the same confining [frame] elements.

in any case, hopefully people who buy this stuff report back with stories of great fitment and zero oil control issues. i just have met a very large number of people who tried to make custom pans for extra capacity and/or fitment and ended up burning up engines. that's kind of expensive when you're talking about the Gen III Chevy.
Joe wrote:custom panel with autometer gauges. kinda see it here
oh, and Joe, WOW. nice race car. i can't believe you still have fully functioning accessories, but that's BALLIN right there all the same. looks like you spent almost as much time prepping your dash as i spent prepping my whole car. i just wish i had the time and money to devote to such a nice setup.
mirochuki13 wrote:okis14, do you have any measurements of how far the Sikky oil pan extends below the crossmember or how much ground clearance there is with your current ride height? I was seriously considering getting the Sikky kit for an S13 LS1 swap but am hesitant now seeing how low the oil pan is.

Also, does anyone know if the Hinson long-tube headers or Daft headers will clear everything when using the Sikky kit?
as long as the sikky is relatively low, it will be fine. it looks in the pic like it's probably the same height in the chassis as Hinson, and i know my Hinson headers fit with some clearance. the only question would be how far foward it sits. the farther forward you put the motor, the worse the clearance for the steering shaft through the driver's side header. being pretty much a race car w/ GTO pan, mine sits super far back, so the clearance there is nice. it would be an expensive test fit, though, when they're like $850. i'd wait until they come out with their own headers, then just get ~200' of wrap and a couple cans of the sealant, which works well. that will probably all but eliminate rusting except for exposed parts, as long as you wrap well and spray properly.

as far as how low the oil pan is, it doesn't look bad. i've had 3 different engines in my 240 and i've remounted my LS1 once already, planning on doing it again by fabricating my own tubular front subframe. unless you really dump it, you should be okay. just remember, it's an aluminum pan, so it will come apart easily if you hit something with it. and if you have any friends who can fab stuff, i'd remount the sway bar brackets lower so it sits at or below the pan, so it protects the pan. i think i moved mine 1.75" down or so, but i don't recall exactly. it was quite a ways.

mirochuki13
Posts: 823
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:37 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Leonia, NJ
Contact:

Post

Thanks for the long reply. That answers a lot of my questions. I'll probably end up going with the GTO pan and Daft Innovations kit.

User avatar
Joe
Posts: 7274
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

thanks for the compliments jason, there is an untold amount of time on the chassis wiring and panel setups lol. thankfully that stuff wasnt expensive, just incredibly time consuming

one thing about that pan that hasnt been brought up yet is the fact on the LS motors its a structural part of the engine. it bolts directly to the transmission and must be aligned within .25mm of the back of the block. what if their production dimensions arent PERFECT? there will be a lot of issues with either the pan, or even worse....

User avatar
95lstegman
Posts: 501
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:09 am
Car: 1989 570SX, 2005 Acura RSX, 1994 Toyota Corolla

Post

Joe wrote:thanks for the compliments jason, there is an untold amount of time on the chassis wiring and panel setups lol. thankfully that stuff wasnt expensive, just incredibly time consuming

one thing about that pan that hasnt been brought up yet is the fact on the LS motors its a structural part of the engine. it bolts directly to the transmission and must be aligned within .25mm of the back of the block. what if their production dimensions arent PERFECT? there will be a lot of issues with either the pan, or even worse....
oh, it's less than 0.25mm tolerance i think. not sure w/o looking it up, but it's a PITA to get a good seal out of that pan gasket if you don't turn the engine upside down (to keep oil from sliding down the walls of the block and ruining your permatex on the corners). and i forgot about the structural part. that pan is sheet metal, so it certainly won't be providing the support of the factory cast pans. it looks like the shape is pretty good for providing some of that structural support [hey, i'm a handful of classes away from being a mechanical engineer here], but the material is almost assuredly too thin.

that said, i'm not actually sure it's necessary to provide that support. there are several other fasteners for engine-trans. i would guess that along with other engines w/ structural pans (SR20), you could probably run stock power w/o seeing any issues. maybe it's different with the LS1, since the transmission weighs twice as much, but if you have stiff/solid engine mounts and a stiff trans mount, and they're all aligned really well, that should make the job a lot easier.

has anybody bought this kit? i'd like to see exactly where the engine/trans sit in the chassis. lots of clearance photos would be much appreciated. as i said, i'm going to remount again, and i'm always looking for new ideas.

mirochuki13
Posts: 823
Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:37 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Leonia, NJ
Contact:

Post

okis14 used the kit. Pictures are on page 3.

Is there anyone that's used a dry sump system for this swap? Moroso makes a dry sump oil pan for the LS1/LS6 that might clear the front crossmember: http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/asamorpan.html.

User avatar
95lstegman
Posts: 501
Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:09 am
Car: 1989 570SX, 2005 Acura RSX, 1994 Toyota Corolla

Post

mirochuki13 wrote:okis14 used the kit. Pictures are on page 3.

Is there anyone that's used a dry sump system for this swap? Moroso makes a dry sump oil pan for the LS1/LS6 that might clear the front crossmember: http://www.lingenfelter.com/store/asamorpan.html.
dry sump pan will be great for racing, but it won't get the engine any lower in the chassis. the factory pans have similar depth where the cross-member goes as the dry-sump pans, and a factory (GTO) pan will fit, it only costs ~$200, you can actually use a dipstick with it, and it actually has pretty good baffling in it, comparable to some aftermarket units. dry-sump would be a terribly expensive way to shove the engine back another 1" [tops], which you couldn't do with a GTO pan. plus, you'd need an external oil pump, and unless it's your race car, i wouldn't trust anything but a crankshaft-driven oil pump. if the belt drive or electric fails, your motor is toast. then we come back to the immense cost . . .

Gisqc1
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:15 pm

Post

For any productions part like this, machined manualy or CNC'd a 0.25mm tolerance is kinda huge and easy to get. Now if these pans are CNC there shouldn't be any problem. As long as their program is correct at the base, they will always end up in the tolerance... unless something major happens.

Damn i wish i could get a decent 240sx to start this project... the more i read the more i want it, **** rust
Modified by Gisqc1 at 10:43 PM 8/30/2008

User avatar
cnichols
Posts: 1832
Joined: Tue Aug 06, 2002 6:07 pm
Car: 96 Nissan 240SX, 99 Infiniti Q45, 93 Ford Fastiva
Location: Bowling Green, KY
Contact:

Post

Gisqc1 wrote:, **** rust
Blame Canada!

Gisqc1
Posts: 43
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:15 pm

Post

yes... a decent s13 in good condition (good not mint) is like... 3k-4karound 1.5k-2.5k you get a s13 with some rust probably repairable depending on the car... and usualy anything under 1.5k is just good for scrap really sucks

Oh and i dont even wanna think about what a s14 would cost lol

maybe importing one from south is the way to go.. should cover shiping easily with those stupid prices!

awdxboost
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:13 pm
Car: 05 Legacy GT, 90 240sx, 93 protege

Post

im am tackling this project in the near future. im graduating this spring and am currently doing prep work to the body. (cleaning, gutting, sound deadening removal, seam welding, roll cage prep)

my plans are for strict track use, full suspension w/ custom machined components of my design, modifying the subframe, and designing/testing a few different ideas i have for the mounts. im using some 3d cad software to do this right now

ive found so much great info on this forum!



Return to “Hybrids”