Post by
JNM240 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/jnm240-u395.html
Tue Jan 28, 2003 7:21 pm
Ive done it with the engine out of the car. Of course i was rebuilding the whole engine at the time, so that made it easier. Heres some things to remember:
Your goal is to remove the front cover, so you will have to remove the oil pump (there is a bolt hidden behind it). I believe you can get away with leaving the oil pan intact AS LONG as you remove the bolts that hold it to the front cover and somehow break the gasket sealer between the two. Again, i did this with my engine out of the car, but looking at it i dont see why it cant be done. Once the front cover is off you can remove the chain.
By now, its not 100% necissary to have the engine at TDC, because now you can loosen all the camshaft rocker arm retaining bolts to fully close all the valves. This way, you can rotate the crank and cam seperate of each other. The #1 cylinder is at TDC when the tooth on the crank sprocket points straight up. The cam is at TDC compression when the tooth points straight up. Now notice there are 2 dots, one at the 3 o'clock on the cam sprocket, and one at about the 5 o'clock on the crank. There are 2 silver links on the timing chain, these should match up with the 2 dots.
When reinstalling your oil pump, be sure to turn the shaft to align the matchmark on the gear shaft with the one on the pump. Lastly install the distributor with the rotor facing the #1 plug tower (about 5 o'clock) and make sure the half moon on it will mate with the half moon on the oil pump shaft. Use a good silicone sealer to seal it all back up. I would even disconnect your ignition coil wire and crank the engine over a few times before i started it.
This is by no means a complete write up. You should DEFINATELY get a FSM, or at least the Chiltons, they do at least have an exploded view of the engine outter accessories, which is what you are looking for.
Hope this helps some. Good luck!