I concur. This is very common on V8 Chevy's and the problems are identical. And oil smoke isn't nessicarily bluish. It can be white. And with valve stem seals, they leak so little that you wouldn't hardly be able to notice a drop in oil level except maybe from oil change to oil change.c-rad wrote:Valve stem seals! If you are idling for a few seconds and it smokes a tad... you hit the gas once and a puff comes out the back, but there is no smoke while actually driving, you can most likely bet that is your problem.
AmoebAssassin wrote:How recently was the exhaust put on? Could just be machining residues burning off the inside and outside of the exhaust...
c-rad wrote:Valve stem seals! If you are idling for a few seconds and it smokes a tad... you hit the gas once and a puff comes out the back, but there is no smoke while actually driving, you can most likely bet that is your problem.
Then refer to what float and myself said.JDMSIL80 wrote:The car came with the exhaust, so that couldn't be it..
Well, you need to take the head off, and disassemble the entire valvetrain to replace them.JDMSIL80 wrote:That sounds about right, very simliar to what my car is doing.
Are these valve stem seals costly to replace in terms of parts and labour?
Is this a common problem with high mileage CA18DET?
You're better off just getting a 'head set'. You would be replacing the headgasket anyways when you do it. And it doesn't hurt to replace the valve cover gaskets and cam seals. I got mine off ebay for $69.99 and it came with everything except the semi-circular seal plugs which you can get for like $3 seperately. The valve stem seals themselves are like $40+ a set, so you may as well get the whole set.JDMSIL80 wrote:What is the USDM part number for the valve stem seals? Its not listed in the sticky thread.
Thanks!
boost_boy wrote: BTW, the CA18 DOHC series is not one that have major issues with the valve stem seals. If you look around this forum, that will be the last thing discussed here. This motor's design for some reason or another spares the head and it's components in the event that there's some catastrophic oil pump failure. You'll trash your rod bearings and rings before you screw up your valve stem seals. If the smoking doesn't smell like burnt oil, then it could very well be your headgasket failing. And yes, your car will run just fine even though your headgasket is aging.
Dee
c-rad wrote:If it IS the valve stem seals, you can try adding a tbsp of brake fluid to your oil and it should swell the seals and reduce/stop the leaking. Mine are so bad on my KA that that trick didn't even help on mine....
nocwage wrote:Are you another canuck like me with an imported Silvia?
My turbo went and I had the exact same problems.
Driving it would seem fine.. come to a stop and it'd start smoking a little.. then a LOT.. start driving and it cleared up.. next stop it'd do the same thing.
It was my turbo, the seal went and as the turbo spooled down (due to idle) it began to seep a LITTLE oil. The oil burning wasn't a lot, and I didn't notice my oil going down but that's because the turbo atomized the oil so it burned "efficiently" in the motor and I got a lot of smoke at idle because of it.If it was a LOT of oil then you'd lose power, you may not even have as much smoke since the large blobs won't all burn, the atomized droplets burn easier so a small amount LOOKS big.
Modified by JDMSIL80 at 11:25 AM 7/21/2005nocwage wrote:It's not the engine so much as the turbo 160,000km is a lot, and it's atleast 15 years old.
My turbo blew because I was running ~12psi with a full 3" turbo-back exhaust. :
Right now I've got a guy in Innisfil building me a custom manifold for a T3 turbo.(.48/super.60)
Modified by JDMSIL80 at 12:09 PM 7/21/2005nocwage wrote:If you plan to keep the car for a while and you plan on running a lot of boost I'd suggest moving up to a T3 instead of a T2. The T2 turbo is a very old design and isn't as efficient as a T3.A Ball Bearing turbo is incredibly expensive and difficult to replace. Rebuilding will cost nearly as much as the turbo itself. That is why I went with a T3 instead of a T28. I can blow up two T3s for the price of 1 BB T28.
The difference between spool up on a wet bearing and a ball bearing is about 8%.. So you'll pay 100% more for 8% difference.