white dust wetsanding

[woah]

Hi guys, I just painted my first car and I had extreme Orange peel everywhere the car. I only ran 20 psi to my gun so I wasn't close to having enough cfm. I sprayed a lot of clear coat on my car and I have been starting wetsanding with 600 by hand. I moved on to wetsanding with a palm sander it sped up the process a lot! i know wetsanding is only suppose to be by hand but this was an extreme circumstance. It works really good but theres like white specs all over the door and other areas some areas. I also hand sanded the hood and theres some white dots there also and I never touch it with the palm sander. If i look really close it looks as if the the white specs are stuck on top if the tiny low spots on the car. I could get the bigger specs out by using 1200 grit but theres like super tiny dotsI cant get out. Heres some pics. Has anybody experiance this before? Any body having any ideas to get it out?

[roadboy240sx]

try a clay bar. idk?

[white_ashes]

id say try a 600 grit to get the surface flat. It doesnt seem that the paint is flat...? try the lower grit sand paper and work your way back up to the 1200 i think if you get the same problem check the paint it may be expired!

[woah]

is not the paint its the clear. ive been using 600 but ill think ill try 400 or 500.

[AZhitman]

The white spots are paint dust crammed down in the valleys of the orange peel.

I'd say take it down flat with a rougher grit, then work up to 600-800, then re-spray your clear.

You've probably gone down through the clear into the base coat on the high spots.

[1SickSilvia]

First of all , wet sanding your finish coat is not done with 600 grit sandpaper, more like 1200 or higher, and it is really risky to use a palm sander. If you need 600 grit than you ****ed up pretty bad on your clear. Wetsanding and polishing wont take out those white spots if you burnt through. I would have to agree somewhat with Azhitman on the cause, but its hard to tell from your pics. You most likely went through your clear and into your base coat, or its a chemical reaction, or maybe some leftover paint or residue in your gun from a previous paint job. I dont see a good end result here without a complete prep and respray IMHO. Live and learn from your mistakes, happens to the best of us, good luck to you.

[nando]

wet sand every thing with 600 grit and re color and then clear.

make sure your gun is clean, a clean gun is a happy gun

if you want to try to get rid of the orange peal wet sand the panel with 1200 grit wraped around a paint stick... not all the way flat...then proceed to 2000 grit flat....be carefull of the spots you already sanded. wash with mild soap and water then buff...

if the spots dont come out deff needs to be resprayed

what gun are you using? HVLP or conventional?

i use a devilbiss Gti and usually set my pressure at about 23 psi. for my base because its HVLP- high volume of material at a low pressure

then i increase the pressure to 29-32 psi for my clear depending on my spray fan patern and what shapes im painting.

your compressor has a lot to do with the paint job too... volume in cfm is king and hp is overrated ... that CFM not SCFM there is a big difference. my compressor at home is 80 gal 5 hp and 15.9cfm at 90psi

sometimes if you spray the clear to heavy and get a run or a sag air pin holes will appear in the clear and usually you will have to repsray the panel or when you buff compound will get in the pin holes and look like white specs

hope this helps

good luck

[nando]

just an fyi...

wet sanding will sand down the texture and the clear itself

a clay bar is designed to remove contaminants from the clear coat surface only...usually like rail dust, tar. and in extreme cases bugs.

it will smooth out the surface to the touch like wax but the texture will still remain.

a clay bar is an abrasive so it is good and recomended to wax after use