which sensors can cause a car to die/not start?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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ANVIL
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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ok so i posted a thread the other day about my car dying and not starting. i suspected a few things, one of which was my low gas indicator not turning on. but after gasing up and driving and having it idle for a good 20-25min in my driveway i couldnt duplicate the problem. i assumed it was the gas but i went out for a drive again today and it did the same thing, only wouldnt start back up. all my tools are at work so i cant really try to diag it now, i would just like to have as many ideas when i try to fix it. heres what i know:

on the 3 different times it died, i was going really slow, or about to go, in the middle of engaging 1st gear.the 1st 2 times this happend, i waited a few minutes and it started up and drove normally, the 3rd time i cant get it started again. also noticed on the 3rd time it backfired right before it died, which is never happens to me with such little load on the car.

fuel pressure is normal. have yet to check spark/compression. but the way it happend im thinking it might be a sensor?

wondering if you guys can give me some good ideas on where to start on this thing. im planning to diag it tomorrow night and i was going to start with checking the MAF and checking for spark.

hopefully its nothing major... didnt want to get into the NRRB club unwillingly


AxiOn419
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:52 pm
Car: 1991 240sx SE Super-Hicas w/ RB20DET
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You said the fuel pressure is normal but is it normal when the car starts acting up and then dies? Thats the key

MAF is a good place to start, eliminate it first by trying a known working MAF

make sure your ignitor is grounded well

The fact that the car was starting up after sitting for about 5 minutes makes me think that something is overheating. Thats is why I mentioned the fuel pump in your other topic.

I am a big proponent of pulling the fuel pump out and physically checking the condition of the gas tank when wierd issues like this arise. These cars are getting old and we all know that the hatch/trunk is prone to leaks especially if you have/had a rusted trunk lid due to the stock spoiler (s13).

Just check it to shut me up

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ANVIL
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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is there any tests i can do to my maf to see if its still good? finding a known working maf is going to be hard around here short of ordering a one somewhere.

oh also, im thinking its not fuel because of the way it was dying. normally a fuel cut would bog first then die right? this just shuts off without even doing a rough idle or anything

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USMCgetsome
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Car: OWN S13.5 RB25DET/2003 G35
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lol. Maf death! search. recently Someone had the same issue a few weeks ago. he'll run you through the symptoms.

AxiOn419
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Actually you could run the car in limp mode for testing. Just unplug your MAF and the car will start.. do not plan on driving it around though. You will not be able to go over 3000 rpm or so under load.

A spare MAF is a good thing to have on hand either way. If and when yours finally does kick the bucket, you will have to wait for one to be shipped to you. Might as well get a spare now. You can get good working ones from eBay for under $100. I have even seen brand new ones for $130 on eBay.

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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well i didnt have enough time yesterday to even look at my car due to working long hours, but today i will see if it will start without the MAF plugged in and go from there i guess

craz4240
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I have an rb20/rb25 series 1 mafs for sale.

AxiOn419
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ANVIL wrote:well i didnt have enough time yesterday to even look at my car due to working long hours, but today i will see if it will start without the MAF plugged in and go from there i guess
Good idea. If the car will not start with the MAF plugged in but fires right up with it unplugged then you know it is the MAF for sure.

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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craz4240 wrote:I have an rb20/rb25 series 1 mafs for sale.
ill let you know if i need it, how much do you want for it, email me [email protected]

are rb25 maf the same as z32? or is there another usdm one that would plug n play or be pretty easy to switch over to?

gawdzilla
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MAF, just replace it with a known good one. old MAFs that are going bad have wacky results. i've experienced it a few times first hand. stalling, random surging, car won't start, etc. rb25 maf is same as maxima green label, not z32

AxiOn419
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ANVIL wrote:
are rb25 maf the same as z32? or is there another usdm one that would plug n play or be pretty easy to switch over to?
You need a SAFCII or something else like it in order to adjust it to work properly. The z32 MAF is not a direct replacement. The only plug and play option is another RB25 MAF if I am not mistaken. I know for a fact that the RB20 has no direct replacement other than OEM without having an air controller for the z32 maf, I am assuming the same for the rb25


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ANVIL
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gawdzilla wrote:rb25 maf is same as maxima green label, not z32
what year/engine would that be from?

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ANVIL
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well, just got home and real quicky unlugged the maf and tried to fire her up but it still wouldnt start

does it matter that I have a power fc?

guess its time to check other things...

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ANVIL
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i think i figured it out...







shaft on the damn thing doesnt even turn! should I be worred about anything else?

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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if anyone has a S1 RB25DET CAS or one that would work for me, shoot me an email [email protected] and let me know how much you want for it

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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is this a "normal" way for a CAS to break? any ideas on what caused this?

240z4u
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I am gonna guess you were running it without the timing cover in place... its pretty well known that you can't do that without washers for spacers.

Sorry dude, that really sucks.

Evan

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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yup you are right. i havent been using the upper timing cover. ive been paraniond since the first time my idler went bad, causing the timing belt to fray very slowly eventually causing me to bend 22 of my valves. but i guess i DD'd it the whole summer and timing stuff seems to be good... guess ill be putting the cover back on when i get a new CAS

240z4u
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Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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Well, like I said you don't have to run the cover if you don't want to. You just need to use washers for shims so you don't run into that scenario again.

Sucks dude, sorry to see that.

Evan

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ANVIL
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Car: RB25DET S13.5
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changed out the CAS. still wont start. now im not getting fuel. weird cuz i was getting fuel before.... found out my fuel pump replay isnt getting power... wtf

i did what the fsm said, to jump terminal 2 and 4 and check for batt V from that, and i get nothing.

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ANVIL
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Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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made a new thread in the 240 technical forum if anyone wants to help out...

zer...rn-on


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