one guy wrote this about q45 rotors:http://www.cautioncreativity.c...e.htm
and then there are these:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33564
so which do you believe to be better for an 89 240sx coupe????:help
which rotor????
q45. I'm fixing to put q45 rotors and calipers on my car. http://www.fastbrakes.com, got mine there. rotors came cross-drilled and slotted. not exactly what I wanted (I'm not racing, so I really didn't need cross-drilling). all in all it was like $290 or something.
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Grant@tirerack
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If the Q45 upgrade does in fact fit (I've never seen it done in person but have heard of a few cars running them already) that would be the best upgrade for braking performance. The Brembo is a very good quality rotor. The issue is how much braking increase will you see with each setup. The Q45 brakes will give you more rotor mass (increased heat sink ability), a larger diameter rotor (more brake torque=greater stopping power), and larger calipers/pads(faster Kinetic energy-to-heat energy conversion). The Brembo offers none of these advantages. If you do decide to go with a stock size rotor, go with a slotted rotor. Cross drilled rotors remove more material from the rotor and reduce the heat-sink ability. It's a wash when you consider the benefit they offer in venting the gasses. Cross drilled rotors are not going to give you dramatic improvement unless it is a larger rotor to make up for the material loss. Slotted rotors do the same thing while removing less material from the rotor. IRL, Cart, and most other high end race cars are now using slotted rotors. Even Brembo states that the drilled rotors are not to be used for racing and they do not warranty them against cracking and warping. The only time a drilled rotor makes sense is if it is for an O.E. application and those rotors are cast with more mass and the holes are actually cast into the rotor, not drilled (Porsche is one example where this is the case with the Brembo O.E. rotors). If you take an O.E. Nissan rotor and drill it, it is more cosmetic than anything. 
If you want the look, that's fine, but don't expect them to hold up as well as a solid face or slotted rotor. If the Q45 setup works, I'd say that's the best bang for the buck. :ylsuper Even with that setup, stick with a slotted rotor, not drilled.
If you want the look, that's fine, but don't expect them to hold up as well as a solid face or slotted rotor. If the Q45 setup works, I'd say that's the best bang for the buck. :ylsuper Even with that setup, stick with a slotted rotor, not drilled.
With the exception of cutting or removing the baffle (just like with the Z32 brake swap) the Q brakes work. It seems like more folks are going this route since it's cheaper than the Z32 option.
As for rotors, I'd get the Powerslot rotors if you've got the $$$ or even just go with some Brembo OE replacements. Unless you've done a 5 lug swap, you'll need to get your rotors redrilled to the 4 lug pattern. Personally, drilling extra holes in something as important as a rotor makes me nervous, but I guess I'm just old and over-cautious.
I'd be surprised if you'll see any advantages to the slotted rotor (besides lookin' cool) unless you're going to be running your car at the track or doing some serious twisty road driving.
As for rotors, I'd get the Powerslot rotors if you've got the $$$ or even just go with some Brembo OE replacements. Unless you've done a 5 lug swap, you'll need to get your rotors redrilled to the 4 lug pattern. Personally, drilling extra holes in something as important as a rotor makes me nervous, but I guess I'm just old and over-cautious.
I'd be surprised if you'll see any advantages to the slotted rotor (besides lookin' cool) unless you're going to be running your car at the track or doing some serious twisty road driving.
IMO, drilling holes in the rotor that weren't meant to be there will most likely weaken it. I'm not an engineer, but the proximity of the new holes to the old ones on some of the re-drilled rotors I've seen makes me very nervous.
On the other hand, quite a few people re-drill rotors, and I've never heard of one failing because of it. Anecdotal evidence isn't exactly the best, but it's all we've got in this case.
If it were me, I'd do a 5 lug swap and put an unmodified rotor on the car. It's expensive, but brakes aren't something you should be skimping on. I'm probably just old and overly cautious.
On the other hand, quite a few people re-drill rotors, and I've never heard of one failing because of it. Anecdotal evidence isn't exactly the best, but it's all we've got in this case.
If it were me, I'd do a 5 lug swap and put an unmodified rotor on the car. It's expensive, but brakes aren't something you should be skimping on. I'm probably just old and overly cautious.
considering that the stress put on the rotor isnt in the hat, drilling a set of extra holes is not going to harm it. THe major stress(clamping force, friction and heat) is on the face of the rotor, not the hat.
I like cross drilled rotors for a few reasons:
-better heat dissipation(when drilled correctly, IE with the vanes in the front)-less weight(minor, but hey, its a nice benefit)
unfortunately the holes drilled in the rotor will cause a odd noise, and some extra pad wear(so does slotting), and if you get a poorly drilled rotor, the drilling process can create stress risers in the face of the rotor. If you buy a X-drilled rotor, make sure the holes are properly chamfered to avoid this.-chet
also: remember that any braking force you can apply is limited by the tires/suspension grip more than the size of the braking system.
I like cross drilled rotors for a few reasons:
-better heat dissipation(when drilled correctly, IE with the vanes in the front)-less weight(minor, but hey, its a nice benefit)
unfortunately the holes drilled in the rotor will cause a odd noise, and some extra pad wear(so does slotting), and if you get a poorly drilled rotor, the drilling process can create stress risers in the face of the rotor. If you buy a X-drilled rotor, make sure the holes are properly chamfered to avoid this.-chet
also: remember that any braking force you can apply is limited by the tires/suspension grip more than the size of the braking system.
