Which Redline oil for the Diff?

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Katapl
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Basic VLSD from a 180. The car is currently jerking a bit and bumping when the gas is let off. I'm going with MT90 for the trans, but what oil should I get for the diff?

I'm also probably going to get some injector cleaner to run a bit of. Hopefully all of this fixes my jerking/bumping issue I'm having. BTW, I'm rocking a redtop.


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Katapl
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I've decided to get 3 bottles of MT90 and just do the transmission. Also, should I go with BG44k for an injector cleaner, or something else? I'm open to anything that will help and isn't ungodly priced.

180fan
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shockproof for the diff if you're looking for more redline. personally I like motul 90PA.

I've tried a few different fuel system cleaners, the ones I've had the best experience with was from Greased Lightning and use of Chevron's Techron. The Greased Lightning stuff had a real deal effect on my family's cars and although a little more than the other stuff on the market, you can feel where the extra money is going.

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skydragoness
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BG is hands down the best stuff next to Seafoam IMO. Haven't tried the Chevron stuff, but they make exc. products so I'm sure that's a sure bet.

Get whatever is rated for LSD's that has a friction modifier included. Redline's 75w90 hi-perf gear oil already has it added to it.

As far as the car bucking, for me that went away as soon as i installed subframe collars. That's something to consider, and they're relatively cheap and easy to install.
180fan wrote:shockproof for the diff if you're looking for more redline. personally I like motul 90PA.
Shockproff for a Nissan VLSD? No way! Shockproof is for trannies or diffs that have dog gears or are for racing applications only. I looked up the Motul you recommended and Motul recommends it for clutch-type LSDs. Which is not what he has. Motylgear 75w90 synthethic is more appropriate for his diff.


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Katapl
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Well, the car only starts bucking a bit when I let off the gas completely. It's okay as long as I'm applying even the smallest amount of gas. But when I take my foot off the pedal, it starts to more or less bump until I gas it again. I've searched a few days ago and read that it could be from the transmission... hence the Redline I ordered.

180fan
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What's BG? I haven't had the opportunity to try their stuff. Redline's fuel system cleaner was a big let down but it's a pretty good fuel conditioner if you're gonna let it sit for a while. Elf's was just overpriced for average performance.

Damn didn't see the vlsd when I skimmed this post. Well regardless, alot of additives for vlsd's are a waste anyway. The viscous material is locked inside of the diff and doesn't get changed with a fluid change anyway. Another thing to look over since you've picked up a vlsd is to make sure that it's working properly. The silicone that expands on the inside of the vlsds wear out over time and don't function as they should as they wear.


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mrzabala
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I have 75w90 redline for my welded differential. Since its winter you want to go a lower weight. As for the engine= BG is a good product. Also seafoam, read nothing but good reviews about them (so far).

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skydragoness
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180fan wrote:What's BG? I haven't had the opportunity to try their stuff. Redline's fuel system cleaner was a big let down but it's a pretty good fuel conditioner if you're gonna let it sit for a while. Elf's was just overpriced for average performance.

Damn didn't see the vlsd when I skimmed this post. Well regardless, alot of additives for vlsd's are a waste anyway. The viscous material is locked inside of the diff and doesn't get changed with a fluid change anyway. Another thing to look over since you've picked up a vlsd is to make sure that it's working properly. The silicone that expands on the inside of the vlsds wear out over time and don't function as they should as they wear.
BG is used at Nissan dealerships. It's awesome stuff.

Additives are not a waste for VLSD's, if it was then Nissan wouldn't require friction additives to be added to the 350z's VLSD. ( And we all know how Nissan likes to cut costs.) For whatever reason, the misconception that VLSD's just take regular diff fluid has been floating around on the forums for a long time. It's not like buying a diff fluid w/ friction modifiers added in is expensive, sheesh.

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Defiant
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I must agree that "friction modifiers" in a VLSD rear-end is an odd idea. So long as the lube is designed for hypoid gearsets -which rub a bit besides meshing- you'll be fine. But unless something's pretty drastically wrong, the viscous LSD isn't affected by the gear lube in the pumpkin.I'd go with either Red Line 75W/90 Gear Oil or Shockproof.

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WildKarrde
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180fan wrote:Damn didn't see the vlsd when I skimmed this post. Well regardless, alot of additives for vlsd's are a waste anyway. The viscous material is locked inside of the diff and doesn't get changed with a fluid change anyway. Another thing to look over since you've picked up a vlsd is to make sure that it's working properly. The silicone that expands on the inside of the vlsds wear out over time and don't function as they should as they wear.
What is the silicone? Is this true, should i rebuild my VLSD? Its for an S13. And the overall opinion is redline 75W90, right?

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Defiant
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Viscous couplers are sealed. I'd not heard of the goo wearing out. So far as I know, they are non-serviceable units. Good writeup on them at Wikipedia:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscous_coupling_unit

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The viscous coupling is sold as a unit, however, the cost is very close to the entry price for the Nismo clutch-type LSD. So there's no point in buying the viscous unit if your VLSD goes bad (or is worn out). Might as well just get another VLSD or save up for the Nismo unit.

Let me reiterate that "shockproof" gear oil from Redline is for clutch-type lsd's/racing transimissions/etc. They are NOT for a street-driven, high-mileage 240sx. Please read the descriptions:http://www.redlineoil.com/prod...yID=6

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Katapl
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So I've just decided to just start saving my cash. Otherwise, I got some MT90 in my transmission, and it has been shifting somewhat nicer. I opened it up pretty hard on the freeway downramp and got some grind from third to forth. Though, I haven't really done more than 20 miles since the change, so who knows?

And now that winter is almost here, my 240 is going to be garaged for almost 6 months. So no BG until May.

Other than that, thanks everyone. I'm thankful for the insight I've been given.

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skydragoness
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Katapl wrote:So I've just decided to just start saving my cash. Otherwise, I got some MT90 in my transmission, and it has been shifting somewhat nicer. I opened it up pretty hard on the freeway downramp and got some grind from third to forth. Though, I haven't really done more than 20 miles since the change, so who knows?

And now that winter is almost here, my 240 is going to be garaged for almost 6 months. So no BG until May.

Other than that, thanks everyone. I'm thankful for the insight I've been given.
Good idea, as for the MT90, that's usually not thick enough for old 240's, how much did you put in?If your'e storing your car I can't help but mention putting a fuel stabilizer (like Stabil) in the tank (even if its in a garage) because w/ the ethanol crap they're putting in the fuel now. (hooray)Will you have access to it? I'd at least drive it when it's dry/sunny out to keep everything running smoothly.

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ricebike
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skydragoness wrote:
BG is used at Nissan dealerships. It's awesome stuff.

Additives are not a waste for VLSD's, if it was then Nissan wouldn't require friction additives to be added to the 350z's VLSD. ( And we all know how Nissan likes to cut costs.)
can you send me some documentation from the dealer/brochure for that? i just wanna put this to bed... thanx

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Katapl
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skydragoness wrote:Good idea, as for the MT90, that's usually not thick enough for old 240's, how much did you put in?If your'e storing your car I can't help but mention putting a fuel stabilizer (like Stabil) in the tank (even if its in a garage) because w/ the ethanol crap they're putting in the fuel now. (hooray)Will you have access to it? I'd at least drive it when it's dry/sunny out to keep everything running smoothly.
I recieved all 3 bottles back, empty.. so who knows how much they put in? And yes, I'll have access to it, but would rather not drive it in the winter so the salt can't eat up the underside and rust it all to hell.

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ricebike
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they overfilled it by ~1/2 bottle... may blow out rear output shaft seal where the driveshaft meets or worse... the input shaft seal, which will ruin your whole clutch disk if it blows!

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Katapl
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ricebike wrote:they overfilled it by ~1/2 bottle... may blow out rear output shaft seal where the driveshaft meets or worse... the input shaft seal, which will ruin your whole clutch disk if it blows!
Well, the thing is.. I'm not sure if they've overfilled it, or not. I'm almost 100% certain I told them 2 and a half bottles. Though, that may be what they filled it too. They likely just kept the other half bottle or spilled some, or something.

Edit: The half-bottle was apparently used to flush it out.
Modified by Katapl at 1:04 AM 11/17/2006

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ricebike
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oh, i always ask for parts/ unused fluids back, just to be sure...

some of the trnnies out thurr has a breather tube, orange color & may vomit some of the excess gear oil out.

so no worries

180fan
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then set the car pretty level and pop the filler plug off. it'll drain out to the proper levels.

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skydragoness
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ricebike wrote:can you send me some documentation from the dealer/brochure for that? i just wanna put this to bed... thanx
Don't worry I didn't forget about you. Scroll all the way down to the bottom and read the part about Gear oil, 1st paragraph:http://differentials.com/install.html

It's just a short blip but they are essentially saying that all LSD's (no matter the type) require friction additives.

I got my bf to access Alldata and there's a technical service bulletin on Nissan LSDs and the fluids they require, however since he doesn't work at Nissan anymore he can't access the TSB.


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