Which rack and pinion do I need?

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qtdriver
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:06 pm
Car: 1995 Q45

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I need to buy a rack and pinion unit. The parts website has one with an evo component and one without an evo component. The one with the evo component is a hundred dollars more. Anybody got an an idea which one is used on the Q. I got a 199,000 miles on this car and want it to last at least one more year. I'm also replcaing the struts. It's not a Q45a (active suspension). Any help or comments is appreciated.



Q45tech
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Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Before you decide to replace a leaking rack try Lucas rack sealer additive.

Careful many low cost remans are nothing more than cleanedup, repainted, used with a few new seals.

Need new rack mount bushing to mount a expensive or cheap rack.

Most shops by racks without solenoid pressure valve and clean old one and swap on to replacement rack.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Joe sells two models. The Nissan new one ~$1,100 or the remanufactured Meridian ~$500.

Call them.

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

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Q451990
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Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
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Q45tech wrote:Before you decide to replace a leaking rack try Lucas rack sealer additive.
I believe this is the first time I have ever seen you suggest trying any kind of "fix in a bottle" here! I suspect you have some experience with it and feel that it's safe for the pump and other p/s components... would it have any benefit as a preventative measure?

Heath

AlabamaDan
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Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2002 12:37 pm
Car: 2015 Infiniti Q70
1998 Infiniti QX4

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Q451990 wrote:
I believe this is the first time I have ever seen you suggest trying any kind of "fix in a bottle" here! I suspect you have some experience with it and feel that it's safe for the pump and other p/s components... would it have any benefit as a preventative measure?

Heath
I think he has said it's the only one he would recommend. I was happy to hear him say it a few months back as I have a small leak on my rack.

Q45tech
Moderator
Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

Post

Because a rack leaks from rubber seals and rubber seals can be MADE to swell unlike rings and metal even Viton seals.

I would NOT use it as preventative, that is the function of frequent fluid changes.................it makes the ATF thicker and puts more stress on hoses and pump.

Careful with OTHER flushes as the solvents might eat away the seal structure. If you must flush correct the chemical flush amount for the small capacity of PS system..............divide by 5 [use less than 2 ounces in 64 ATF]...............try to maintain no more than 3% solvent concentration then exchange it all out a few times after it runs for 15 minutes each cycle.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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When BG performs the power steering system extraction and replacement, besides a synthetic hydraullic fluid, they also use a conditioner.


qtdriver
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 3:06 pm
Car: 1995 Q45

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Thanx guys, but I'll take my chances with a $486 reman rack and make sure I replace the rack mount bushing and the rest of the front end bushings. Really don't want to screw up the PS system with incorrect fluids and flushes.

maxnix
Posts: 22627
Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45

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Fresh fluid is always the best, so replace frequently, especially if you do a lot of urban or hat weather driving as the PS capacity is small and there is no cooler.

The rack doctor
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:23 pm
Car: I fix um
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qtdriver wrote:I need to buy a rack and pinion unit. The parts website has one with an evo component and one without an evo component. The one with the evo component is a hundred dollars more. Anybody got an an idea which one is used on the Q. I got a 199,000 miles on this car and want it to last at least one more year. I'm also replcaing the struts. It's not a Q45a (active suspension). Any help or comments is appreciated.
In my opinion :-) if the rack is just leaking "don't use that lucas stuff it doesn't work trust me on this one" (yes i like to sell racks but hate to clean up the mess that crap leaves behind. if your car is steering fine but leaking then you do not need the evo save your $$$$ and buy the rack with out. ALL remanufacturers are just selling you a used evo on a rebuilt rack the evo is so expensive no one changes them out we just test them and move on ( my price is the same with or with out before you all blast me) If the evo is good i send it along if it is bad i do not it takes all of 30 seconds and 3 alen head bolts to change the evo out. so save your cash.

The lucas stuff may work for a few weeks but once a seal goes it is gone the lucas stuff works great on trannys but when it comes to steering there is no pour in fix.

Good luck Rack Doc

The rack doctor
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Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:23 pm
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Q45tech wrote:Before you decide to replace a leaking rack try Lucas rack sealer additive.

Careful many low cost remans are nothing more than cleanedup, repainted, used with a few new seals.

Need new rack mount bushing to mount a expensive or cheap rack.

Most shops by racks without solenoid pressure valve and clean old one and swap on to replacement rack.
PS "Careful many low cost remans are nothing more than cleanedup, repainted, used with a few new seals." what do you think any rebuild is on any rebuilt part it is a used part that is cleaned resealed and tested.

There are many rebuilders that practice the spray and pray method or fluff and buff but they never last long.

here is a little secret for you all if you pull the passenger side bellow look and see if there is a little hole drilled in the casting where the bellow is clamped. The unit can not be rebuilt or has not been rebuilt if there is no little hole drilled there because when you remove the Bulkhead the threads will strip out because nissan / Infiniti stamps the casting to lock the threads. this stamp must be drilled out. so this is how you can call a bluff on a rebuilder in the event they deny this ask them to open it while you watch you will have fun with that one......... the casting is steel and the bulkhead is a fine thread aluminum so if they try to turn the bulk head loose with out drilling the stamped notch they will get about 2 turns and the bulkhead will lock up and will not turn in or out. the fine aluminum threads build up in the steel part of the casting. at that point toss the rack in the scrap pile............

Good luck

Be well Rack Doc


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