Which oils are y'all running?
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looksLikeA240
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looksLikeA240 wrote:mobil one is horrible in turbo cars
MOBIL1 tends to run a bit thinner within given spec windows for some of its oil than many competitors.This is a reason many car manufacturers like it so much to squeeze out the last few mpg they can for EPA and CAFE reasons.
But if you use MOBIL1 in it's 15w-50 viscosity it will do well in a turbo.
In general, NEVER use anything thinner than a 40 weight oil in a turbocharged engine and alwasy remember to idle the car at least a couple min before shut down and after starting.
Fred...
PS: Examples of acceptable oil viscosities in turbos as a minimum 0w-40 and up. 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40, 10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50. (not all of these grades may be locally available)Inn turbos it's especially important to run synthetics.
A turbo always needs a 40 weight as an aboslute minimum preferable a 50 weight even.Durablend is a good oil I curently run it in my Q for its solvency but will change to MOBIL1 as soon as its real clean via envirolution motor flush machine.There are some good discussions on viscosities in this thread.
Fred..
Fred..
I try not to run the throttle to the point of engaging my turbo if the engine hasn’t fully warmed up. This is more of a concern in the wintertime. I normally give the WRX 3 full min of cool down unless I have been running it really hard. Does letting a N/A engine cool down before shutting it off help?
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GirlRacerS14
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lessthanjakejohn
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lessthanjakejohn
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Current SL (since 2k1, but not widely phased in until 2k2)SJ: 95/96 (approx) until 2kSH pre 95
Plenty good for a lawn mower.I actually prefer SH over SJ, as SH still left the oil industry a greater freedom on which anti wear additives(ZDDP) to use.SJ emoved some of that freedom w/o incraesing other standards much, generally for most brands the later SJ is outperformed by the old SH (assuming the SH is a modern formulation and not a straight weight;)..)
SL is leaving the additive guidelines largely alone, while making stricter performance standards across the board for deposit and volatility and many otehr parameters.
SL are better than SJSJ is not better than SH.
Fred...
Plenty good for a lawn mower.I actually prefer SH over SJ, as SH still left the oil industry a greater freedom on which anti wear additives(ZDDP) to use.SJ emoved some of that freedom w/o incraesing other standards much, generally for most brands the later SJ is outperformed by the old SH (assuming the SH is a modern formulation and not a straight weight;)..)
SL is leaving the additive guidelines largely alone, while making stricter performance standards across the board for deposit and volatility and many otehr parameters.
SL are better than SJSJ is not better than SH.
Fred...
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lessthanjakejohn
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cnichols
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palmerwmd wrote:A turbo always needs a 40 weight as an aboslute minimum preferable a 50 weight even.Durablend is a good oil I curently run it in my Q for its solvency but will change to MOBIL1 as soon as its real clean via envirolution motor flush machine.There are some good discussions on viscosities in this thread.
Fred..
What if you have an aftermarket oil cooler and change your oil every 2000 miles? Do you really think a 40 weight would still be ABSOLUTELY necessary ?
chris:
Yes, you can still go 3k miles w/ no harm w/ a premium oil.(what are you running?)An oil cooler is only sometimes a good idea.Make sure your oil temps justify using it .I reiterate: as a minimum a 40 weight oil in a turbo.If you didnt have an oil cooler, I'd say a 15w-50 Mobil 1 or equivalent.
I advised Bud to run that, in his WRX in summer (in winter Valvoline SynPowe 5w-40 or Mobil1 0w-40).
In Europe most non turbo cars even recommend 40 weights.Its very dificult to predict the efect the oil cooler will have on yor oil temps.It if lowers them too much (as many do in streey applications) then an oil thats thinner than the prper weight would be able to take that better but you dont wanna go to a thinner oil just to accomodate an over cooling oil cooler.
Also your oil cooler will not protect your oil from baking/coking in the turbocharger on shutdown.
Fred..
Yes, you can still go 3k miles w/ no harm w/ a premium oil.(what are you running?)An oil cooler is only sometimes a good idea.Make sure your oil temps justify using it .I reiterate: as a minimum a 40 weight oil in a turbo.If you didnt have an oil cooler, I'd say a 15w-50 Mobil 1 or equivalent.
I advised Bud to run that, in his WRX in summer (in winter Valvoline SynPowe 5w-40 or Mobil1 0w-40).
In Europe most non turbo cars even recommend 40 weights.Its very dificult to predict the efect the oil cooler will have on yor oil temps.It if lowers them too much (as many do in streey applications) then an oil thats thinner than the prper weight would be able to take that better but you dont wanna go to a thinner oil just to accomodate an over cooling oil cooler.
Also your oil cooler will not protect your oil from baking/coking in the turbocharger on shutdown.
Fred..
Hey y'all,I have a 90 Max @ 150k miles. I drive mostly on city (80%), maybe 20% on freeway.I'm currently using 10w30 mineral oil (Castrol). I'm planning to switch to those high milage or syn. Do you guys know anything about those higher milage oil? Will it do any good to my old engine? I live in Phoenix, Arizona where there is no winter. What do you guys recommend?
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Turbo240project
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Carney wrote:Hey y'all,I have a 90 Max @ 150k miles. I drive mostly on city (80%), maybe 20% on freeway.I'm currently using 10w30 mineral oil (Castrol). I'm planning to switch to those high milage or syn. Do you guys know anything about those higher milage oil? Will it do any good to my old engine? I live in Phoenix, Arizona where there is no winter. What do you guys recommend?
The castrol GTX is oen of the better non synthetics.In your climate I would go w/ a 40 weight.
No need to go to a "high milage" formulation as all those do add some seal swellers (do u leak or burn oil?) as well as put the viscosity on the higher end of the declared range.
If u wanna stay off synthetic for $ reasons go to a 10w-40 such as GTX or Valvoline.An excellent blend (a step up) is Valvoline Durablend 10w-40.
If you go to syns :
If your engine is reasonable clean MOBIL1 0w-40,valvoline Synpower 5w-40 if its less clean.
Fred...
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