Which oil to use? after 30k of testing.

[bassfreak85]

while i don't have any direct data logging i will say this..
I've tired 5 oils. all Oils where 5-30 unless noted
mobile 1
Pennzoil platinum
royal purple HPS
AMS oil signature series
ams oil dominator (10 -30)


By far the best high heat resistance and protection was of course the Dominator race oil. kind of unfair because it was race oil and i don't recommend going over 1500 miles before you change it..

The next best was the ams signature series. These oils(ams fully syn) are simply superior oils. the sig series as compared to the race oil, the oil temp is hotter but as compared to the moble and Pennzoil and it was still way more stable and had superior start up and protection over the others.

next was the royal purple.. i was impressed with it for it being a group 3 base in the heat department but it left the motor nearly as dirty as the race oil..(by dirty i means additives like zinc for enhance cool properties that DO form deposits over time.. after running hard for 2000 miles on the mobile 1 and Pennzoil it was time for a change.. i don't suggest it but i ran the race oil for 3k just to see how dirty it would get and I really don't recommend you do this.
the royal purple held up for 4000 miles and still was OK..

if your a dumb d!ck and do want to pay for the ams oil at least run the HPS royal purple and change it no more than 4500 miles. on run the other stuff and get a oil cooler

NOTE: these car run hot in nature as it a high compression high revving motor. another note. The intake VALE-TRAIN is quite picky about oil and its coating and circulating properties. the race oil had much smoother operation up to redline.. if your going to run your car HARD get a oil cooler or run the race oil and change it every 500-1500 miles depending on how hard you drive it..
if your an everyday driver and like to get on it but don't run it hard in say DS down winding roads(me) run the ams and if you have to the Royal purple is OK but if you don't run these get a damn oil cooler..

my next venture is to try the AMS oil hot rod version.. its basically a blend between the signature series and the dominator. you can supposted run it for 4500 or so and still get great protection.. im going to run two changes up to 4500 and send both samples off to test to see if infact i get and excessive build up..

[Beancooker]

Thanks for posting your results. Pretty interesting. Makes me wonder what your thoughts of the castrol sync in the BMW would rate after its 10k between oil changes.

[Starter]

NOTE: these car run hot in nature as it a high compression high revving motor. another note. The intake VALE-TRAIN is quite picky about oil and its coating and circulating properties. the race oil had much smoother operation up to redline.. if your going to run your car HARD get a oil cooler or run the race oil and change it every 500-1500 miles depending on how hard you drive it..
if your an everyday driver and like to get on it but don't run it hard in say DS down winding roads(me) run the ams and if you have to the Royal purple is OK but if you don't run these get a damn oil cooler..

Unless you are doing full race applications, this advice is worthless. ANY decent oil, syn or otherwise, is good for longer than 4K. It ain't rocket science folks.

[telcoman]

Unless you are doing full race applications, this advice is worthless. ANY decent oil, syn or otherwise, is good for longer than 4K. It ain't rocket science folks.

Agreed

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil


Telcoman

[Beancooker]

I like how his sig is a rolling advertisement for a car lot. I don't think the admins would be very pleased about that.

[Fezzik]

I'm still using redline all these years and no issues.

[bassfreak85]

if you read the post you will note when i say that I ran it hard.. i dare you to go racing on the weekends like i do(most roiling drags and timed around winding kickass roads) with those other oils and expect it to last.. i bet you notice how fast they break down/burn for the elevated heat levels and shock load..

like i said i run my car hard so that takes those claims of 15k down to about 3k if that and depending of how hard it ran..

if you think you know better order http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/o ... 2foai.aspx.

sure if your drive on the highway with not alot of stop and go driving and you dont run your car hard convention oil will last 3k and synteks will last 10k. but if you do alot of driving in town stop and go and ideling Id advise you change it ever 5-6k.. ive done the reasearch. think im wrong.. prove it..
the next worse thing for a car is ideling and constant stop and go driving

[bassfreak85]

I'm still using redline all these years and no issues.

Ive heard good things about redline. i went with amsoil. i might try out the Lucas oils soon too. needless to say i hear alot of people running the ams.,mobile 1 and Valvoline race oils. the amsoil is the only one i found in 10-30.. i haven't looked online for the others so they may have um( im sure they do).

BTW the mobile and penn and Royal purple AREN'T fully synthetic ..

[bassfreak85]

NOTE: these car run hot in nature as it a high compression high revving motor. another note. The intake VALE-TRAIN is quite picky about oil and its coating and circulating properties. the race oil had much smoother operation up to redline.. if your going to run your car HARD get a oil cooler or run the race oil and change it every 500-1500 miles depending on how hard you drive it..
if your an everyday driver and like to get on it but don't run it hard in say DS down winding roads(me) run the ams and if you have to the Royal purple is OK but if you don't run these get a damn oil cooler..

Unless you are doing full race applications, this advice is worthless. ANY decent oil, syn or otherwise, is good for longer than 4K. It ain't rocket science folks.

no its not rocket science. Its chemistry. like i said test it yourself.
any oil that is petroleum based is inferior to the real full synthetics .. the main name brands are all conventional oil with synesthetic additives.. they lying to you.. its that simple. if your going to buy those you might as well get conventional oil and add some lucas synth additive..
and full racing applications? if you drive your car hard and in DS where it uses the rev matching even if you don't the superior protection will have less wear and your car will last longer. why not spned the extra money( its along 9$ a quart) and just get a REAL fully synthetic? your just paying for a blended group 3 lub.

[Starter]

no its not rocket science. Its chemistry. like i said test it yourself.
any oil that is petroleum based is inferior to the real full synthetics .. the main name brands are all conventional oil with synesthetic additives.. they lying to you.. its that simple. if your going to buy those you might as well get conventional oil and add some lucas synth additive..
and full racing applications? if you drive your car hard and in DS where it uses the rev matching even if you don't the superior protection will have less wear and your car will last longer. why not spned the extra money( its along 9$ a quart) and just get a REAL fully synthetic? your just paying for a blended group 3 lub.

If you've done the research you would know that any street motor, even modded, never puts a strain on bearings, cylinder walls, etc. like actual race applications. By race I don't mean straight line speed runs for 10 to 20 seconds. I'm talking thirty minute or more oval and road course events. Most of that time at high RPM. Race oils are formulated more for anti foaming properties because of the sustained high revs and is the real difference between race oils & street oils. Any quality dino or syn oil will satisfy all street applications, even the ones you describe. The real cause of oil degradation is sustained heat, which is where syn oils shine. Your use doesn't even begin to stretch the envelope of what street oils can handle. You should use what you like to use, but it seems to me you could save a lot of $$$s if you were to rethink your strategy.

[bassfreak85]

seriously.. im not going to argue with you.. i've done my research.. Ive done testing
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro ... motor-oil/

[G37x Sedan Modder]

Regular Castrol. Period. The rest are junk.

[Finnkc]

Been using Mob1 for about 20k (km) now on my DD. Here are my last two Blackstone reports (mileage is in km). Also using K&N oil filters, And the last numbers are after a long cold winter of sometimes -30c starts.



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