Which oil brand and weight are you using?

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VA99Q45
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I have a 99 Q45 with 62K miles on it. Currently I am using Mobil synthetic blend 10W30. I am thinking switching to Mobil 1 fully synthetic. I am curious what are you guys using.

Thanks.


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Rex
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Suggestion: make some sandwiches, get a cooler of cold drinks, use advance search - term: oil & user name: PlamerWmd. Then spend hours reading and learning from his GREAT knowledge.

Edit: Actually any term related to oil with User PalmerWmd.

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VA99Q45
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Thanks Rex.

It looks like Mobil1 0W40 is the oil to go with.

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Rex
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Your Welcome.

I'm not a big fan of the "you should search", but in this case, with the right keys words, gave you a wealth of information.

And welcome to the board, how long have you had the Q? And post some pics.

lessthanjakejohn
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The winter time is coming up, you might want to stick to a 0w-30 Mobil 1

or whatever Fred says is a good winter oil :)

nuQ
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2009 Dodge Caliber SXT
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0w40 mobil 1, full synthetic. since i bought the Q, i ran 2 oil changes with valvoline synthblend for it's detergent adiditives. a week before the changes i added see-foam and did around 100 gentle miles. immediatly before the change i dumped a quart of mobil 1 atf in the crankcase, then let idle for around 45 min. i did this just to make sure my engine was relatively clean before running a full synthetic. my oil stays clean for the three months until the next change.jeff

Qshipsta
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i've been using a straight 30 weight ursa,. oil,. it's made by a company her in town,.. it seems to be pretty good,. i figured a straight 30 weight might be goodfor the car,. considering how old it is,.. but , i could be wrong,.

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VA99Q45
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Thanks all for the responses.

Rex, I just got the Q in less than 2 weeks.

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PalmerWMD
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Qshipsta:

Do <not> use a straight 30 with your car regardless of season!!!!Even if its fresh, change it right away.

Good WINTER oil for Q:

Low mile Q: Syntec 0w-30 ( ONLY the kind with the ACEA A3 rating on the back that says made in germany dont pick the made in USA kind, as there are 2 different Syntec 0w-30's with very different abilities.

High mile Q: Mobil1 0w-40.

Fred..:)

airman
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Hmm... Is it that bad using full synthetic 5W30 Mobil 1 on 100K Q?

Qshipsta
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hey palmer,. thanks for the advise,. i wasn't sure if it is any good or not,. it seems good,. but i'll have it change right away,.. what are the reasons not to use straight 30 weight? just curious...

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PalmerWMD
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airman wrote:Hmm... Is it that bad using full synthetic 5W30 Mobil 1 on 100K Q?


I wouldnt say bad, but you arent taking fulladvantage of th3 performance a full syn oil should give you when you are using an oil thats too thin.

The MOBIL1 5w-30 is plenty thin for winter but waaay on teh thin side for a 30 weight during hard running.

The German Castrol is thinner during start-up (hence the "0w-"), this protects your cams during start-up, but runs thicker during hard running and is ACEA A3 rated.

MOBIL1 has some good oil, but the 5w-30 is not one of my favorites in MOBIL1.

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Qshipsta:

A multiviscosity oil will run thinner when cold. this protects your cams during start-up.

A straight 30 weight oil is thicker than a 20w-50 (pure summer oil!) during startup!

Fred..:)

Qshipsta
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Palmer ok so how should i go about switching from a non synthetic straight 30,. to a full synthetic mobil 0w-40?,. i heard you shouldn't mix non syn. with full syn.,.is there some kinda method to this??

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PalmerWMD
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Qshipsta wrote:Palmer ok so how should i go about switching from a non synthetic straight 30,. to a full synthetic mobil 0w-40?,. i heard you shouldn't mix non syn. with full syn.,.is there some kinda method to this??


There really isnt a great deal of prep you have to do as modern syn formulations are compatible w/ conventional oils.

Maybe I'd just drain the oil longer, or even fill in an extra quart of the new oil with the drainplug still open in the hope of getting some old stuff from the bottom of pan.

But really no special things neccessary.

Many believe aflush is a good idea but I dont see a real need for it just to change ( PS: stay away from kerosene based flushes, they are only safe when your engine is resonably clean inside)

Fred..:)

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VA99Q45
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Fred,

Do you consider 62k miles as a "low mile Q" ?

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PalmerWMD
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VA99Q45 wrote:Fred,

Do you consider 62k miles as a "low mile Q" ?


Yes.

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Here is some extra info on the imported Syntec ( as diferent from the regular kind) and how to tell which is which.

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....73284

Fred..:)

Qshipsta
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ok so this stuff ,.castrol syntec 0w-30,. is good then?,. but it has to say acea a3,. and made in germany,. ..and there should be flags on it?,. i think i'm gonna buy it, .but i don't want to buy the regular syntec,..i'll go check it out though,. thanks again palmer

greg_atlanta
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I mostly use Valvoline Durabland 10W-30 (synthetic blend) and change every 3-4 months.

I would discourage anyone from using Mobil 1 full synthetic on an old engine which has not used that oil before. I experienced a lot of valve clatter after using the new Mobil 1 10W-30 formulation for the first time. Others have had the same problem.

Older engines need heavier oil, newer engines need lighter oil.

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PalmerWMD
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Greg is correct.The MOBIl1 full syn in 30 weight ( M1 0w-30, 5w-30 10w-30) all run pretty thin evenb for 30 weights.

in M1 I would use M1 0w-40, great oil.Valve clatter is a common occurence when using 30 weight Mobil1 ( but 0w-40 and thicker are good).

Fred..:)

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PalmerWMD
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Qshipsta wrote:1)ok so this stuff ,.castrol syntec 0w-30,. is good then?,.2) but it has to say acea a3,. and made in germany,. ..3)and there should be flags on it?,. 4)i think i'm gonna buy it, .but i don't want to buy the regular syntec,..5)i'll go check it out though,. thanks again palmer


1) yes very, has given great UOA's in all sorts of conditions.2)yes must say both3)uhm nothing about flags I can think of:)4)look carefully5)Autozone's are so far the only places that have it, the 2 kinds of 0w-30 are often mixed with each other so check each bottle)

Fred..:)

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cousteau77
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I just had my oil changed today. After a quart of Mobil ATF in the crank case, I switched from a Valvoline 10w40 to Motul 5w30 and man is she purrrrring.

These are the specs on the Motul:

5W30100% Synthetic ACEA A5 / B5API SL / CF

After reading what Fred had to say, on my next change I'll try the Motul 0w40. The specs on it are:

0W-40 100% Synthetic – Ester Based ACEA A3 / B3 / B4API SJ / CF

Jacques, 93Qt 125k

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PalmerWMD
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coustau:

Motul is good stuff.

The A3 rating oil is a bit "stronger" than the A5 rated oil.

Fred..:)


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