Which mods for about 230-250hp?

[GotBoost4Yall]

This has probably been talked about many times already

My currents mods:

Full 3" in exh from DP to HKS HP Catback SRT25 (rebuilt) @10psi (s14 t28 ,needs new seals)I'm still on the SMIC but have a FMIC ready to goIMPUL tuned ECU

I'm really thinking about dropping an SR in after tax returns. I really dont think the CA is worth dumping $$ into as far as for power output, i'm also looking at a FC Turbo II RX-7 already built for $5000

[RMiller]

You break my heart. I don't think you're getting the full CA experience. Believe me, two of the same kind of cars with the same kind of engine can feel totally different. I'll give you some first had examples.

I've driven 3 Fds. My brother has one, and it drives like a dream (new engine, non-sequential by us, 3" turbo back, m2 ecu, intake). Smooth like butter on wax. Another one drove like absolute crap. Shifter all jacked up, rough riding, just a pos altogether. Third one drove pretty nice, pretty much in between the other two. My brother's and the second one I listed were night and day.

I've driven 2 sr s13s, and I have a ca s13. One Sr felt like a brand new car; it was smooth and fast. The other Sr was unbelieveably slow. I don't get it, it was like my mom's minivan. My ca is about as fast as the better of the two Sr's I drove. Our mods about match.

I don't see why other cars are more worth dumping money into. It's a waste either way. My total cost is probably around 6k, including car, some painting, everything and it's faster than my '00 mustang gt. However, you will always get more in the import market if you buy somebody else's investment.

As far as 230-250hp goes, yeah it's been talked about alot. But, it's basically the same as the SR, but slightly lower figures. I don't have much to go by since we're all too lazy to dyno, but I know cuzan0 dynoed at 277 whp at 1.2 bar with a t28, 550's(not really necessary), fmic, turbo-back, rom tune, safc. I also know I've seen a dyno at 200 whp for a stock turbo ca at about 14 psi.

[themadscientist]

"I really dont think the CA is worth dumping $$ into as far as for power output"

Your thinking is flawed, tell this guy that. Listen to him chirp fourth.

http://www.paddy.co.jp/democar...g.wmv

[rico05]

#1) To get that power:-T28 (I will be hunting for a T28 GTi-R)-Injectors (440cc DSM or 460cc S4 FC3S primaries. I have the TII injectors myself)-Management (I am looking into Power FC or flashed EPROM and magic boxes)-Better temp. management (Better IC, better cooling system)-How's that clutch?

That should do you (with a few more odds and ends) for your power goals.

#2) Lemmie ask you a little about your life, if I may? What do you do? How old are you? Live on your own? Have a solid saving account? This is comming from a former RX-7 owner here (me): FCs are EXPENSIVE to own: they guzzle gas, require meticilous matinence, and are a real headache to work on since it is hard to find a shop local that will know rotary. If you feel very confident in your economic security and your mechanical understanding and abilities: go for it! The rotary is a VERY rewarding machine! But be prepared for a hell of a a time with it!

#3) I would not reccomend the Impul ECU. JDM land gets 100 octane at the pump. That means that your ECU is very probably tuned for that. I am not sure what you can get easily at the pump in Florida, but in Texas, all I can get with ease (I can run to Houston to get Sunoco* 110 but that is a 2.5 hour each way trip) is 93. That WILL not cut it. Either get some USDM tuning done or buy lots of octane booster to add each time you fill up. Just my $.02.

*EDIT: Oops. Forgot the "o" in there, heh.
Modified by rico05 at 6:14 PM 11/30/2004

[float_6969]

1st - As was stated before, each car is different. My car had bad rings and was burning oil and it was still pretty darn fast. Thats was stock except for the intercooler.

2nd - TMS- I LOVE that video. I've watched it a thousand times and I never get sick of hearing it.

3rd - I couldn't agree with Rico more. I've got friends who had rotarys and don't anymore. They all have 240's now. They loved the rotary, but just didn't have the money to maintain it. If I had limitless funds, I'm quite sure I'd have an FD/FC in a heartbeat, no questions asked. But I really feel that the CA is a great motor and has a great amount of potential. When I get the motor back from the machine shop, I have every intention of proving that with dyno's and a large kill list.

[91rs13]

"JDM land gets 100 octane at the pump"

Hey Does anyone know what octane rating Japan uses? In the USA we use R+m/2 ( I think) --in the UK they use RON only. --so in checking into compatibility of chips and what not--A UK Chip Required 97 Octane (RON)

Since NYS no longer allows MTBE's--the highest Octane we get is 93--which when I checked with 3 suppliers--was told it varies between 96 and 99 Octane using the RON method only.

If this is true the JDM stuff may not be a problem ( if you can get 93 or Ultra 94)

Also don't the RX7s have a tendency to blow out their seals when under higher boost?

[r34 gtr]

my crazy jap ecu is tuned for 100 octane. runs like a champ on 93, so i wouldnt worry about it. im pretty sure they use the RON method. if not you can always get high-octane fuel in 55gal drums. that good stuff makes a good difference. my CA loved 104 octane sunoco unleaded.

- tim

[rico05]

Also don't the RX7s have a tendency to blow out their seals when under higher boost?

No more than imporperly tuned piston engines blow rings and headgaskets under high boost w/ bad tuning. Rotaries need: to stay cool, to be fed LOTS o fuel, and to be kept from detonating. I have seen many big boost 13BTs (like 40psi+) in drag applications. The issue with apex and side seals is the detonation fragility. The bigger issue is with the oil and coolant seals which are basically rubber bands that seal the fluids from the combustion chamber. Improperly tuned rotaries (like piston engines) can generate "hot spots" in the combustion chamber which will actually melt (or blow through) coolant seals (akin to blowing a head gasket, but necessitates a full tear down/rebuild) Rotaries are my first love, but the pitbull CA will do while I learn more about boost tuning.

[rico05]

my crazy jap ecu is tuned for 100 octane. runs like a champ on 93, so i wouldnt worry about it. im pretty sure they use the RON method. if not you can always get high-octane fuel in 55gal drums. that good stuff makes a good difference. my CA loved 104 octane sunoco unleaded.

- tim

Good to hear then Tim. I was speaking from what I have picked up in UK mags about importing gray market cars. They always mention the gas issue when in regards to aftermarket tune ECUs. Good to hear that in our case: the tuned JDM ECU is still a solid, viable option. Gotta love that

[OKCA18DET]

i've seen those pix in his sig on ebay before when i was looking 2 buy a 240 already swapped with a CA.....

[GotBoost4Yall]

Good to hear the feedback guys. I get so much shyt from other guys with swapped SRs or just bad mouthing the CA. I went as far as contacting Norris Designs on more help on tuning, but not too helpful as they have that car no more.

I am 22, rent out my parents house. I make it pretty good plus I'm starting school @UTI here in Orlando. I saw the RX7 advertised ,already modded to go but then again its not a car I have much interest in.

I take very good care of the CA and it has treated me well, but I'm at midpoint where if deciding is it worth to keep modding. My next mods consist of a Spec 2 clutch, 4.36 LSD, Walbro 255lph (overdue!!!) I have a s14 T28 on the shelf that needs new seals, also need some Injectors. Z32 or KA MAF. The car feels very fast as it is but I need more, in the last week I decided to get Tein S-techs/KYB-GR2 for suspension.

Yes the car was on Ebay but reserve was never met. Anything is for sale for the right price.

QUICK ? : Would the SS autochrome Manifold be an upgrade or downgrade, keep seeing them on ebay, also is the 02 housing they sell ported out more???

[c-rad]

"Supposedly" the ssautochrome manifolds have improved welds and thicker gauge tubing, but I have not seen one of the newer ones so it's tough to tell. But seeing as most are selling for around $175, that makes them almost disposable. I don't think it could be any WORSE than a stock manifold though.

[r34 gtr]

the stock manifold really isnt a bad unit at all. i dont really see a need to replace it for those modest power goals.

as for the o2 housing, yes, it is bigger and its nice and smooth inside. its also got that divorced wastegate tube thingy for better response. mine wouldnt clear the steering column though, so i had to use the stocker. let me know if you want one, as ill sell you mine for way cheaper than on ebay. not doing much good as a paperweight right now..

- tim

[RMiller]

GotBoost, your car looks like mine. That's neat. Color, motor, year, wheels. So neat.

It'd cost you at minimum another 1k after selling your parts and getting an sr. And you take the risk of getting a decent motor or not all over again. It's cool that you want to spend money though. Why don't you go bigger on the CA? Screw the t25 flanged ss manifold, go for a t3 top mount. Put on a t3/t04b or e, buy some 550s, a fuel pump, and a haltech w/ map, then call it a day. That'd cost you about...you can buy fc injectors, 100 for pump, can get a second hand haltech w/ map for about 1000 or less, 200 for manifold, 50 for oil line, 500 for turbo. Yeah, that's under 2k. Would be sick. You should do it, then tell me how you like it and I'll decide if I want to do the same thing.

[Nismo1182]

Get that FMIC hooked up and crank the boost up. My car was about 95 mph traps on stock boost and on 12 it was alteast 100. It was fun smoking SRT4's. So get the fmic, crank the boost and enjoy.

[Def]

"JDM land gets 100 octane at the pump"

Hey Does anyone know what octane rating Japan uses? In the USA we use R+m/2 ( I think) --in the UK they use RON only. --so in checking into compatibility of chips and what not--A UK Chip Required 97 Octane (RON)

Since NYS no longer allows MTBE's--the highest Octane we get is 93--which when I checked with 3 suppliers--was told it varies between 96 and 99 Octane using the RON method only.

If this is true the JDM stuff may not be a problem ( if you can get 93 or Ultra 94)

Also don't the RX7s have a tendency to blow out their seals when under higher boost?

"JDM land gets 100 octane at the pump"

Hey Does anyone know what octane rating Japan uses? In the USA we use R+m/2 ( I think) --in the UK they use RON only. --so in checking into compatibility of chips and what not--A UK Chip Required 97 Octane (RON)

Since NYS no longer allows MTBE's--the highest Octane we get is 93--which when I checked with 3 suppliers--was told it varies between 96 and 99 Octane using the RON method only.

If this is true the JDM stuff may not be a problem ( if you can get 93 or Ultra 94)

Japan uses the RON method, while we use the R+M/2 method(known as the Anti Knock Index - AKI). Japanese 100 RON is about equivalent to 94-95 AKI octane in the US depending on what's in it. Our gas might actually perform better at higher boost/high power applications since the MON test is more accurate of a boosted motor(high intake charge temp, higher engine speed, more load I believe). It's easy to make a fuel have a high rating in just one rating system, so that's why theirs tends to equal about 94-95 AKI here that might only have a RON rating of 98-99.