Where to get Computer Engine software?

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PoorManQ45
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Does anybody have any suggestions of a good Computer Engine "simulator".

I am going to be building a 351W and would like to save alot of time and money by testing out as many possible variations as I can. Do you know of any software programs that can do this? I have read about them before, but I can't remember where or what they were.

Please help me out. About how much will one of these programs cost me?



HeavyDuty
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http://www.racenet.net/software/dyno2000.php

I'm soon to be installing a 383 (stroked 351W) with a Vortech T Trim into my old 88 5.0 coupe.

Only looking for 600hp & 9.90's.

Engine's on the stand, car will be at the chassis shop within a week.

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PoorManQ45
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thanks for the reply. I thought people were just ignoring me.

That is exactly what I am/was looking for. Do you know of any other(read: cheaper) programs like that.

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PoorManQ45
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The description says, "Build and test any 4-cycle engine on your PC! Dyno test V12s, V8s, V6s, 4-cylinders, domestics or imports." Does that mean that it has stock engines already programmed into it?

squeefoo
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You might want to check a copy of Circle Track. In the back I've seen ads for those, might find something on their website. I'll look in a mag or two and repost.http://www.circletrack.com

HeavyDuty
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PoorManQ45 wrote:thanks for the reply. I thought people were just ignoring me.
(TONGUE FIRMLY, SURGICALLY IMPLANTED IN CHEEK)

We are.

Just kidding.
PoorManQ45 wrote:That is exactly what I am/was looking for. Do you know of any other(read: cheaper) programs like that.
Brien, I have $12,000 in a *cheap* Windsor long block, a Sportsman block, no less, not even an R block. IF you are prepared to engage in a build yourself of even that magnitude, does the cost of the software matter?

I guess you could try some newsgroups or other vessel of acquiring the software on the cheap. Otherwise it'll be like throwing a dart at the QEII and trying to hit a postage-stamp-sized-target.

What are your expectations?

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PoorManQ45
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HeavyDuty wrote:IF you are prepared to engage in a build yourself of even that magnitude, does the cost of the software matter?
I understand where you're coming from with the relative costs.

I think I might be heading out to the orlando area to visit you. You think you could make me a "back-up" copy of the software you have .
HeavyDuty wrote:Brien, I have $12,000 in a *cheap* Windsor long block, a Sportsman block, no less, not even an R block.
Wow, $12,000 in a Windsor. That's alot of money on my scale. I'm thinking about buying a short block assembly and working from that. I'm figuring a total of ~$5000 for the whole thing, excluding the car it's going in.
HeavyDuty wrote:What are your expectations?
Lots of cancer inducing black smoke caused by the "smoking" of the tires .

HeavyDuty
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I don't have a copy, I know it exists, but also have enough sense to realize I'm not a machine shop nor an engine builder.

What are your HP expectations?

What chassis do you plan on running?

What numbers are you expecting?

I know a no-options Fox coupe can run 9.90's with 6.27 liters & 12-15 psi of coool boost with full interior & a/c.

Those are my expectations, not that high, pretty realistic actually. I just want single digit ET's in a streetable package.

Oh yeah, a goal of 1g on the skidpad, too.

That's where the fun comes in.

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psychic_mechanic
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If this is your first performance engine build (I'm just assuming it is), I'd try to keeep it simple this time.

A 302 would be a lot cheaper to learn with, but I'm also assuming you have a 351W sitting somewhere begging to be wrenched on already.

I'd put some decent money in the heads, probably at least $1500-$2000. I 'm not really up on what the flavor-of-the month is on 351W heads but get a good flowing set with a good 3 angle valve job. 9.5 to 1 or so compression and whatever cam tickles the back of your throat.

What's the motor going in to? A sprint car has different needs than a jet boat.

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PoorManQ45
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HeavyDuty wrote:What are your HP expectations?
I'm shooting for about 400HP minimun across the RPM range from 2000~5000. With a peak of about 600 around 4500RPM.

For torque, I'm going for 375~475 from 1500~4000. With a peak of 525~550 around 4000.

I know these numbers are really conservative, but I don't want to have to rebuild the thing every 6~12 months.
HeavyDuty wrote:What chassis do you plan on running?
It's going in an '82 Ford Fairmont. The body is in really good condition, not much rust. The only problem is that is has got the seemly rare 255ci V8 in it. That thing sucks. It is rated at ~115HP and I don't even think it is getting that. Also, it's an Automatic C4 transmission. That's probably going to be changed to a C4 manual or C6 manual.
HeavyDuty wrote:I know a no-options Fox coupe can run 9.90's with 6.27 liters & 12-15 psi of coool boost with full interior & a/c.
I think I read about a 'stang like that in 5.0 Mustang or Fast Ford magazine. I like that he retained the AC. That's a must have in FL.
HeavyDuty wrote:Oh yeah, a goal of 1g on the skidpad, too.
Wow. That's all I can say.

What kind of suspension are you going to be using?
psychic_mechanic wrote:A 302 would be a lot cheaper to learn with, but I'm also assuming you have a 351W sitting somewhere begging to be wrenched on already.
I agree that a 302 is cheaper, but not by much. The 351W shortblocks that I have been looking at have been about ~$250~$900 more than a 302 shortblock. I figure, why not spend a little bit extra money on the block and require less radical modifications to get it to put out the numbers I want. I'd like to stay with NA if at all possible. If I have to boost it, I'd like to keep it under ~10psi.
psychic_mechanic wrote:I'd put some decent money in the heads, probably at least $1500-$2000. I 'm not really up on what the flavor-of-the month is on 351W heads but get a good flowing set with a good 3 angle valve job. 9.5 to 1 or so compression and whatever cam tickles the back of your throat.
I'm thinking a little bit closer to $1000 for the heads. Possibly something from Edel Brock or some other proven name company. With either a 3 or 5 angle valve job.

As for the compression ratio, I'm thinking between 9.7 and 10.2 to 1. That would be too much for pump gas, would it? Remember, the comp ratio doesn't have to be that close to 9 to 1 because this engine wouldn't be seeing much boost if any at all.

I haven't really thought about a cam yet. That's why I was looking for a Simulation program so I could test out different combinations without having to buy any. Any suggestions for a cam that would work best in the powerband that I stated?


psychic_mechanic
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Parts for a 351W are more expensive too, the good thing about 302's is you can find a lot more used (cheap!).

I think the newer ford exploder heads are supposed to be a pretty good bang for the buck, you could even port them afetr reading up on porting. If you haven't had a chance to memorize it yet, I really like Smokey Yunick's "Power Secrets" on of those books evreyone should own.

With weld in adaptors you can fit a 429/460 in a fairmont.

I like the C6, but unless you meant a full manual valve body all C4 and C6 are autos. I went through 7 C4's in my first Mustang before building a C6 to put in it behind a 351W marine block.

It was hard finding parts for the Windsor, I seem to recall needing special headers and intakes.

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PoorManQ45
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psychic_mechanic wrote:If you haven't had a chance to memorize it yet, I really like Smokey Yunick's "Power Secrets" on of those books evreyone should own.
Where could I get this book?
psychic_mechanic wrote:Parts for a 351W are more expensive too, the good thing about 302's is you can find a lot more used (cheap!).
I've been looking at "performance" parts for both the 302 and the 351W. The stuff for the 351w is not that much more, maybe 5~10% more.
psychic_mechanic wrote:With weld in adaptors you can fit a 429/460 in a fairmont.
I have read on one of the Fairmont forums that a bunch have guys have put 429/460 in there cars. I remember someone mentioning a kit you could buy to mount it, but I don't remember who made it.
psychic_mechanic wrote:I like the C6, but unless you meant a full manual valve body all C4 and C6 are autos.
I didn't know that. What is the difference between a stnadard C4 or C6 and one with a full manual valve body?

What transmission(s) would you suggest?
psychic_mechanic wrote:It was hard finding parts for the Windsor, I seem to recall needing special headers and intakes.
I think you might be thinking about the 351C cleveland. It is/was hard to find parts for that engine. It seems that most aftermarket domestic companies sell parts for the 351W.

HeavyDuty
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If I may make a suggestion, you should go to Stangnet.com, MustangLife.com, or Corral.net & cruise the Windsor forums.



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