where to attach hoist chains to sr20det

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Vedoman
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:35 am
Car: 90 240sx s13sr20det

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im about to do my first swap and i dont want to hurt anything, so where do i hook the chains to hoist my sr? pics would help thanks.


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Vedoman
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:35 am
Car: 90 240sx s13sr20det

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can i get some help

Ninjamasta
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Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:56 pm

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When I did mine, I use one bolt from transmission and the AC bracket. Don't even think about using intake or exhaust manifold, trust me, had bad experience with it.

codyace
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Car: S14 w/redtop
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Ninjamasta wrote:When I did mine, I use one bolt from transmission and the AC bracket. Don't even think about using intake or exhaust manifold, trust me, had bad experience with it.
I always use an intake stud or a bolt in rear of the head for the back passenger rear, and a bolt into the side of the front driver side (not the cas bolts, the one right above the exhaust manifold)

If you're really worried about using an intake stud, you can always wrap a seat belt around a intake runner and run the chain hook through both ends...works great.

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Justin35ll
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Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 6:57 pm
Car: s13 coupe sr20det

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I've used the intake and exhaust manifolds once, other times I've used misc. bolts on the sides of the engine

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Vedoman
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Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 10:35 am
Car: 90 240sx s13sr20det

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thanks for they help guys. if you guys have any tips or pointers for let me know.

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OM3GA
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Car: A Sexy Mobile, 1993 Nissan 240sx 180sx Hatcher

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I usually just man up, inject some roids, and have at it.

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positron1
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

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I ran mine through the 2nd and 4th intake and exhaust manifold runners both for pulling the KA and dropping the SR.

codyace
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The biggest thing you need to consider when pulling the motor (if trans is attached) ist o get PLENTY of angle (crank pully up, transmission tailshaft down) to pull it out nice and easy. I usually just hook the chain as close as to the front as possible and go from there.

HOWEVER, anymore (if possible) it is 100 percent easier taking these out the bottom.

-Remove exhaust out of way (downpipe too)

-Disconnect radiator hoses

-Remove ECU connector from ecu in footwell, and push harness out into engine bay through the hole...lay harness atop the motor (same as if yo upulled from the top)-Disconnect any wires going to gauges, or wires going to the chassis

-Loosen the 4 front crossmemeber bolts, dont' remove

-Remove driveshaft

-Remove trans mount, and shifter boot/knob from interior (you don't need to remove actual shifter tho)

-Remove wheels

-Put engine hoist and straps around lower rad support, and lower the car onto the ground (like you are actually laying it on the front crossmember gentle). If you have a low dolley (or a old creeper), that works even better as you can now roll push it easier, but it's not needed as you can sort manhandle the motor around

-While car is 'on ground', simple reach in through the wheel wheels, remove the 2 bolts (per side) of the cross member.

Now all you do is use the hoist to lift the car back up, and the motor will be there on the ground. No screwing around being careful not to tear up anyhing, no fighting old mounts to release...just simple as pie.

mrgreeneyes
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Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:15 pm
Car: ///M5
Parted Out Built S13 Coupe

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only one problem.... suspension alignment is all sorts of off afterwards.

the subbys have a lot of room to shift, believe it or not.


codyace
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Certianly, but 90% of those cars are off on alignment as it is. Whats another 65-70 bucks for an alignment when you're all said and done building a car? THat's how I see it.

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EnjoiNismo
Posts: 1127
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:18 pm
Car: 93 240sx
Location: AZ

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I used the intake side and the exhaust side.

Using HIGH grade bolts.If you use low grade, they have a chance of snapping, which happened to my friend.

LayNLow240
Posts: 1017
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:20 pm
Car: 92 240 coupe

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Go to the junkyard and pull off the engine hoist hooks off of some toyotas. Then bolt to your sr and be done with it.

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OM3GA
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Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:41 pm
Car: A Sexy Mobile, 1993 Nissan 240sx 180sx Hatcher

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LayNLow240 wrote:Go to the junkyard and pull off the engine hoist hooks off of some toyotas. Then bolt to your sr and be done with it.
I have always thought about doing that, that is probably what im going to do if i have to pull the motor.

LayNLow240
Posts: 1017
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:20 pm
Car: 92 240 coupe

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Yeah, my buddy does a lot of engine swaps and he has a whole lot of different kinds of hooks from toyotas. They come in handy!

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chicos240
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Joined: Mon Oct 11, 2004 11:18 am
Car: 1995 240 SX

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The way i have always done it;1. get 2 chains or ropes, but chains work better because you can tighten by the link2. attach one end of each chain to hoist.3. Your Motor Mounts have to be on the engine brackets, not on the chassis..fish the bottom end of the chains through the hole in the motor brackets that attach to the motor mounts.4. pull them up and use a carabine or some other strong bracket type to attach chain to itself and your done. 5. you are at a pretty good center to be able to titter totter the engine at a good attack angle to enter the bay.6 enter the bay HIGH and with transmission pointed down.7. put rolling jack under the transmission as it enters under the chassis and use it as support as you lower the engine.8. roll your hoist forward untill your transmission hits firewall9. get under car and raise the jack slightly to start leveling the engine out.repeat untill you are all the way in.10. at the end your chains should be directly above your engine mount studs

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OM3GA
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Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:41 pm
Car: A Sexy Mobile, 1993 Nissan 240sx 180sx Hatcher

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You could also do it the baller way.

1.) Buy a Takata Harness and an expensive set of good tow hooks2.) Bolt the hooks to the engine and put the Takata harness through3.)Hoist engine out with a Cherry picking device.


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