WHERE'S THE BIG KUHUNA ? --- DEVIOUS KA
WHERE'S THE BIG KUHUNA ? --- DEVIOUS KA
Say has anyone heard from Gabe lately? I know he has alot of "irons" in the fire, but it has been since last June from his last post here. I hope he's ok and all.
I believe life has just taken over his schedule. He is not even responding on hybridka (his store/forum) IIRC he got a dyno around the time of his last posts and had just moved or something. I'd like to see him get back online but for now we just wait for the return. Anything us members can assist you with? we will gladly help
Re: Where's Gabe ?
Thank you for your offer. Fully understand what you quote is saying.He and I were conferring on a build I am performing. A S.O.H.C. truck block, very high compression (nismo stuff) for my asphalt/dirt midget racer. Thanks again. RACE 66
Re: The numbers
13:1 comp. carrillo nismo rods, no final numbers yet. will be using a "massaged" factory fuel injection, nuff for now. Won't run until next spring though. Probably, looking around 2 and quarter hp or more. My rules dictate limited mods on the cylinder head, as well as other applicatons with the engine. as we are a "econo" class race group. Rpm's around 7. Remember this is a torque engine, and that's what I want for the type of use that I need. And yes, it " WILL RUN LIKE A SCALDED HOUND" reliably.
Modified by RACE 66 at 9:45 AM 10/3/2006
Modified by RACE 66 at 9:45 AM 10/3/2006
Modified by RACE 66 at 9:45 AM 10/3/2006
Modified by RACE 66 at 9:45 AM 10/3/2006
so I was right 13:1, keep me updated. AFPR ftw! You say no runs till next spring. How about testing the engine? I hope you get those numbers but many have failed the attempt of breaking 200 na ka hp, but with that said I dont know how many have went 13:1, most want a street motor though, not just track. How are you going to compensate for all that added heat? Might not be a problem where you stay. I know it is a torque engine but hp can and will raise esp. with that comp.
I'm glad to see this build. So good luck and keep it up.
I'm glad to see this build. So good luck and keep it up.
Re: Heat ? What Heat !
When I first built the original "L" series motor set up, I went to a custom radiator that I help design and fabricated by Saldana folks in the midwest.It is know as a "double by pass" series. They virtually guaranteed that it would keep things cool. Well they were right, in fact the "L" motor, with 10:1 compression has a hard time getting "UP" to temp, even after a 20 lap main. I have initially used cardboard in front of rad. for inital applicaton, and then finally reverted to a restrictor plate in the thermostat housing, which works great. Who know, if Devious has a dyno, he lives around a 4 to 5 hour drive from where I live, so he's "close" to play. We'll see if that comes about at all. You "gotta" remember talk is "CHEAP" and the proof of the pudding is by getting it in the vehicle of choice and working on all the little stuff, etc, etc. By the way, if you go to, http://www.crank-scrapers.com, my race car the # 66 midget is featured on their web site with some further info. Race 66
Modified by RACE 66 at 1:22 AM 10/4/2006
Modified by RACE 66 at 1:22 AM 10/4/2006
Re: Nope :(
Nope, is the answer. It's my hipocket !!!!!! Take note, I approached them originally about a scraper for a ka-24e truck block series. At that time, the"girdle" style was available. So being a smart company as they are, they jumped on the bandwagon with calipers in hand and built up a scraper for that series. I was fortunate to be able to secure the first production scraper for that block series. And YES they do nice work. Note I also got a main bearing cap/oil pan baffle in the mix also. They were very easy to work with. I would rate my expeirence Triple "A" in my book.
Re Oil scraper
To answer you question. It's hard to tell exact application as to rpm gains. Like I mentioned in the crankscapers web site, I 'am looking at approximately 100 to 200 rpms increase. They way the car runs, especially on a dirt track, you do have wheel slippage, with power coming on and off. So I feel comfortable saying that. Anything else, I would suggest using a dyno for "before" and "after" application to where the power application is more controlled. And to what type I got of scraper? I purchased the all metal type of scraper.
My original concern with the synthetic wiper was that, for when the inital fire up of a new engine, and the counter weights would be "bedding" in onto the wiper. In talking with the crankscraper folks, they releived my fears that so little of the material coming off the counterweights would not interfear with the bearing material in the rod and mains or clogging the oil filter up. If I had it to do over again, I probably would get the synthetic style. You need to be careful of going past the magic 7 number, I am not an engineer or nor a automotive guru, but you would need to make sure you have ALL your ducks in a row to press the engine that hard. As I understand (ie: volumetric efficency, stroke,timing,valve size, overlap, cylinder head design, "true" compression ratio, and many other applications) all have MINOR OR MAJOR concerns of this type of engine, or for any engine for that matter.Big thing though, don't get in a hurry when your assembling/or specing your engine, make SURE you have ALL the needed information/materials for your application.
My original concern with the synthetic wiper was that, for when the inital fire up of a new engine, and the counter weights would be "bedding" in onto the wiper. In talking with the crankscraper folks, they releived my fears that so little of the material coming off the counterweights would not interfear with the bearing material in the rod and mains or clogging the oil filter up. If I had it to do over again, I probably would get the synthetic style. You need to be careful of going past the magic 7 number, I am not an engineer or nor a automotive guru, but you would need to make sure you have ALL your ducks in a row to press the engine that hard. As I understand (ie: volumetric efficency, stroke,timing,valve size, overlap, cylinder head design, "true" compression ratio, and many other applications) all have MINOR OR MAJOR concerns of this type of engine, or for any engine for that matter.Big thing though, don't get in a hurry when your assembling/or specing your engine, make SURE you have ALL the needed information/materials for your application.
Please dont turn this into a a ka cant rev past 7. lol I hear it all the time but dont believe its a huge problem.(not for the head till about 7500, bottom about 7) Thats my opinion, and will be. I think the scraper will aid the bottom end in going a bit higher. I have gteched my car several times hp builds all the way to redline(set at 7000 rpm for now). As for a dyno to back anything up, agreed.
Re: (neverlift)
you run at skagit? I may have to make the way up there to check it out 
as far as him revving his motor, 7k will probably be fine with him. He's limited in head mods, don't know what limits, but power's gonna drop off up there no matter what he's done to compression.
as far as him revving his motor, 7k will probably be fine with him. He's limited in head mods, don't know what limits, but power's gonna drop off up there no matter what he's done to compression.
Re: (Xero)
I run a midget. Have ran Skagit in the past, mainly our schedule is in B.C.Langely, Merritt etc. Were an "econo" based racing class, and in order to keep the costs down, we limit head mods and other applications, to keep it "affordable" for the average joe.