Where is the AIVV valve located?

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

I heard cleaning this up can make a difference.. Where is it located exactly and what does it look like. Thanks if you can help me out in advance. Oh and should i clean teh egr also? If so where is that located and what does it look like. ty

Post by **santa109** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Get the service manual here (I'm not too good at explaining where stuff is)http://www.zeroyon.com/TheSite/techservice.htmland look in it. There's big images of everything. I'd look in the EC chapter (emissions control), it's probably in there.

Website · Post by **allthrottlenobottle** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

drivers side mounted to the strut tower. check in the faq section under aiv

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

There's really no point in cleaning it since it doesn't really do much. So little that later models didn't even come with them. In my opinion, just pull the whole thing out of there and plug the hole in the manifold, air filter box, two vacuum lines, and leave the electrical connector hang. No ECU trouble codes will result from this, and you'll be rid of all the trouble it causes or will cause later down the line.

Seems most people have problems finding a suitable plug for the exhaust manifold. I was just given the part number of the plug Nissan uses to plug the models without the AIV, it is 14052-21R00

You'll also need a 24mm socket or wrench to install that plug.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

lol man i ment the idle control system .. lol well will cleaning teh idel control system make it run better?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Well, since it's the "idle control" it will idle better but will not yield much in the aspect of power or speed performance. Are you more interested in making it a smoother running everyday car or trying to make it faster?

The AIV will, in fact, make the car idle badly, especially as old as our cars / AIVs are getting, so I would still say get rid of it. As far as the EGR, it's kind of a lengthy diagnostic precedure to do and can be found using the search function on this forum or even better is to get the manual.

If you haven't done it already, I'd say do all the usual stuff first for a smoother running car. Oil changes, air filter replacement, your know, basic tune up sstuff at the recommended intervals. Then go do all the diagnostics if you still got problems.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Before i make it faster i need to make it run right. So.. i did basic tune up spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, rotor, cap. But the idel is still screwed up. Where should i go to now?

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

By teh way i know my fuel injectors or injector is bad. How can i tell what one or ones? and where is the best place to get one? I want the best ones that go strait into teh stock rail.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

In a picture i just noticed a hose comming off the radiator where u fill it goign towards the passenger side where does that go? im just wondering cause i dont have that hose. overfill?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Yes, the hose just under the radiator cap goes to the coolant overflow recovery bottle. You can find some old hose from the local parts store to replace that. It will either sell by the foot, or a package of a few feet. Check to see if that bottle is leaky. It may be why the last owner got rid of it.

If any injectors are bad, it will affect the way the car runs, and definately the idle. All injectors "tick" as they operate. An old trick to see if they are ticking is to put a screwdriver on it and put the handle part on your ear to hear it tick. I've never been able to get that trick to work since my car is too loud, nor do I have an injector problem. You can get stock injectors at the local parts store too, that's where you will find the best price. Oversized/ performance injectors are usually found on the net for the best prices, but looks like you don't need those yet. If you got the money, you may as well replace them all.

I'd recommend getting that service manual downloaded that was in santa109's earlier post and get the trouble codes off the ECU first before throwing parts at it.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

the injextor or injectors tick loud i can hear them at idle. i thought it was rods or somethign ticking but after looking closer its the injectors ticking loud. are they suppose to be that loud? i know i got white smoke out the exaust i was told to much water was in my gas because it dosnt smell like gas or collant. But for sure i know its not teh head gasket(its been resently replaced) but i dunno about the injectors im getting bad fuel milage. so what do you think?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Yes, you should be able to hear them. I was saying to use that trick to see if individual injectors are working. Just because you hear some ticking doesn't mean they are all ticking.

Get some gas drier like Heet or an equivalent if it's water in the gas.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

oh ok so if they dont tick they arnt workign correctly? How can i tell if they are stuck oipen or close they wont tick?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Generally speaking, if they don't work, they are stuck closed. The fuel injector is a little electronic valve to put it in simple terms. Normally, the injector is closed, when a electrical charge is sent to the injector, it makes a tick as it opens and closes in a split second. I suppose anything is possible, but it being stuck open is rare.

To be sure, you can inspect your sparkplugs after a while of driving. A normal plug should have a light tan or gray color; but if a certain cylinder is running rich as in injector stuck open, it will have black soot on it. Either way, if it's not working, open or closed, you need to replace it. Again, I would say just do them all to make sure all 4 are working in the same condition.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

spark plugs all 4 indecate a clean burnin engine. I checked em today. But why am i using so much gas? Is there another reason?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

I ususally get around 300 mi. to a whole tank, The way I drive is not good for gas mileage and I am not one of those who really trip over the mileage. Are you getting about the same?

Poor mileage could be cause by many things, the first that comes to mind is a faulty sensor of some sort. Again, I must recommend downloading the manual, and pulling the codes (if any) from your ECU.

http://www.zeroyon.com/techfil...4.zip

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

I downloaded teh manual teh first time you gave me it... But where do i pick up a code reader? I got one for my ford at wal mart but they dont carry nissan and no parts store will do it.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Id say 300 to a tank also with regular unleaded. I go about 3k in every gear. 1-3 gear i can go under 2k but 4th and 5th gear i cant go under 2k or teh car starts to shack weird. Is that car geared like that?

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

You don't need a code reader. Read the manual, it tells you step by step how to retreive the codes. the ECU has built in lights on it that tells you any problems it sees by blinking the lights a certain way. The manual has a section on how to decipher the blinks.

Yes, my impression of the gears of the 240sx is that it's geared relatively high.

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Around 300+/tank is not bad mileage in my opinion. That's 22 to 25 mpg roughly.

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Oh wow thats a nice option that its just on teh ecu itsself. Well tomarrow mornign ill check that out and ill post you the codes Thanks alot for all this help and sorry for all teh questions im sure it gets annoying after awhile. And oh yeah i got 6 by 9s in teh back rear deck now heeh sony explodes

Post by **ScottnAshley** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Hey where in teh book is the ecu? i looked everywhere and i cantr find it lol.

Post by **gounc14** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Not trying to gank the thread, but Niznos, I've searched the sponsor sites for that Nissan plug, any idea where else to find it online?

Post by **BoyWonder** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

gounc, I'd try some local places for it. There is a store called Bap Geon (I believe that's how it's spelled). It's down on First Colonial Road between the intersection of Laskin and Virginia Beach Blvd. Anyways, they carry import car parts, and chances if they don't have the part they can order it, and for cheaper than the dealership.

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

ScottnAshley, ECU diagnostics can be found in the EC part of the manual, page 39, althought it will be beneficial to at least browse through all of the EC chapter. Yes, I know it's really long. You're very welcom for all the info, nothing wrong with honest questions, I am just trying to put back in what I take from here.

gounc14, BoyWonder: I've found the plug on the net before but don't remember where, then again, it wouldn't matter anyway because the dealer should charge under $10 ea. while I remember net vendors were wanting $12-15 ea. plus shipping. If you know the exact specs for that bolt/ plug you can go to a specialized fastener store and get it, if you've got them where you are. Those special fastener stores usually deal with heavy machinery like construction equipment, if that helps you find one.

Post by **niznos** » Sat May 15, 2004 7:10 am

Correction to last post: That EGR/ AIV plug for the manifold was $12.28 at my local dealer, but what the hey, no shipping charge.

Where is the AIVV valve located?

Where is the AIVV valve located?

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