Where'd All My Money Go? Z31 Build

A home for 1983–1989 300ZX owners!
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SoCal-S13
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Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:14 pm
Car: 1984 Z31 50th Anniversary Edition VG30ET
Location: Glendora CA

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So I no longer own an S chassis and i've converted to the dark side. I sold my S chassis for $5500 and I picked up a 1984 300zx Turbo 50th Anniversary Edition for $1500.

(last known photograph)
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Engine:
VG30ETw/ 80k mi.
3.0L V6 w. Garrett T3 Turbo

Mods:
2.5'' MSA Exhaust kit

Everything is pretty much stock. I initially bought the car to use as an intermediary between my S13 and what was supposed to be my S14. All I can really say is after driving the Z I feel that it is time to move on to bigger and better things. Or at least different things. Ive decided to throw a bunch of cash at this s*** so lets see what happens.


Day 1: Got the car like this

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After driving it for a week or two I purchased a factory remanufactured engine from the dealer, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, F1 Racing stage 3 clutch, 2.5'' straight pipe exhaust to Flowmaster muffler, new turbo lip, new battery, new engine harness, smoked headlight covers, and a set of 350z Anniversary wheels.

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So far all ive done is test fitted the wheel but they will be mounted in a day or so. So far it looks pretty legit...

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My plans after the new motor, exhaust, harness etc are installed will basically be coilovers, suspension bushing re-vamp, fmic install w/ bov, and a f*** paint job somewhere down the road. I want this thing stanced out draggin the frame rails :woot:
Last edited by SoCal-S13 on Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:20 am, edited 2 times in total.


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simmode1
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OMG... You're doing PRECISELY what I've been thinking about doing. What great timing! Subcribed!
z31-turbo-vs-240sx-your-opinion-t570937.html

I've even already got those exactly wheels on my s14! :dblthumb:

Can you give me a comparison of the Z31 turbo versus the S13? What are your impressions of that old heap in stock form? I'm seriously considering getting one too. I love the 50th anniversary aero + kouki front/hood. I hope you keep the original paint scheme...

And lemme see that sick digi-dash!

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SoCal-S13
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Car: 1984 Z31 50th Anniversary Edition VG30ET
Location: Glendora CA

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simmode1 wrote:OMG... You're doing PRECISELY what I've been thinking about doing. What great timing! Subcribed!
z31-turbo-vs-240sx-your-opinion-t570937.html

I've even already got those exactly wheels on my s14! :dblthumb:

Can you give me a comparison of the Z31 turbo versus the S13? What are your impressions of that old heap in stock form? I'm seriously considering getting one too. I love the 50th anniversary aero + kouki front/hood. I hope you keep the original paint scheme...

And lemme see that sick digi-dash!

Love these wheels. Im having my painter come by next weekend probably to fix the rash and re-spray them so they look brand new.

As for the comparison between Z31 & S13...I wouldnt say one is better than the other, but this Z is more fun. It has waaaaaaay more power, more leather, more speakers, more cylinders, more turbos, more T tops, and overall it just has a swag level that the S chassis doesnt. If you buy a Z id reccomend buying a car with all of the electronics working. There is about 10 times more electronic modules and there is so much damn wiring in this car diagnosing/fixing it looks like it would be a nightmare (compared to S13). From what I have found or actually havent found there are very limited parts available now because the car is so old, so keep that in mind. I plan on maintaining integrity of the 50th AE trim level and color code. If I did ever paint it a different color I still would do the same two tone it has now but in Skyline gun metal grey and the lower part in black and have the gold pinstripe and turbo letters re-done. Paint my wheels bronze and call it a f*** day. Lol the digi dash is pretty damn cool, you just want to see a picture of it?

The S chassis cant be awesome and street legal at the same time.

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SoCal-S13
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Car: 1984 Z31 50th Anniversary Edition VG30ET
Location: Glendora CA

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So today I got the wheels mounted and for further reference id like to put this information out there:

To make the 350z Anniversary wheels (with oem tire specs for 350z) fit the Z31 you must buy hubcentric wheel adapters, without they will not clear your struts and the center caps wont even fit. You also will need to buy open ended lug nuts.

I bought 1 1/2" 5x114.3 to 5x114.3 1 1/2" wheel adapters and a set of lug nuts then went to the dealer and picked up an oem radiator and oil filter. Then I went to get some more parts for the car.

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I got a dash cover, power antennae, stock air box, an oem steering wheel, a climate control with wood grain trim to match the rest of my interior, new rear speakers, speaker covers, and a larger cone air filter.

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Ive got the other working climate control if anyone was looking for one. Thats all for today so until next time Ill leave you with this


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simmode1
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SoCal-S13 wrote:The S chassis cant be awesome and street legal at the same time.
That is precisely why I am looking outside of the S-chassis now. Thanks for the comparison. Exactly what I was looking for. The Z31 is so cheap to buy, it's hard to resist. But you pay later because it takes more work than the 240. I'm just trying to get a sense of just what's involved to bring the Z31 to a point where its stance is dialed in and makes decent power reliably. You know, I just want it to know if its able to rival the typical SR20+GT2871r S-chassis on coils and wheels for about the same price while maintaining its streetlegal status.

Man, I'm loving how those wheels look on that paint scheme. I think it'll look amazing once it's all freshened up. Please don't paint the wheels bronze! lol... On my S14, I have two sets of the rear 18x8.5's all around and have been considering having them widened to 18x10's or more. Now I'm wondering just how much wheel/tire the Z31 can fit if you needed to come down to 18x8+15 up front to clear the stock suspension. I don't suppose that situation will get any better once you install coilovers, right? I'd imagine you'd need even lower offsets at that point...

I've been reading about the Stance coilovers+Serial 9 adapters... I don't yet understand fully all that is involved with switching over to S-chassis suspension, but I'm looking forward to finding out. I have zero welding knowledge, so I wanna know how far a basic setup will take one of these cars.

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SoCal-S13
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Car: 1984 Z31 50th Anniversary Edition VG30ET
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lol bronze wheels on this color scheme would look retarted. factory wheels color looks nice so im not going to change it. And honestly I have no idea if installing coilovers will fix the clearance, id guess it could go either way because it was contacting the strut perches and those are like 4" in diameter. No coilover is 4" in diameter so it is possible the smaller diameter would allow clearance. As for switching to S chassis suspension, if you have experience welding this is the way to go to keep costs down. If you dont you are way better off just buying the Stance Z31 coilovers and calling it a day. They arent that expensive and are very good quality.

(took this from another forum)
You can use S13 Coilovers, but you will need a serial9 adapter in the front, and a member on Z31performance makes top hats and sleeves for the lower mounts so that the rear bolts right in.

Stance offers and adapter with the S13 coilovers if you ask for it. you will need to cut your stock strut tube and weld on the adapter.

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simmode1
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SoCal-S13 wrote: if you have experience welding this is the way to go to keep costs down. If you don't you are way better off just buying the Stance Z31 coilovers and calling it a day. They arent that expensive and are very good quality.
I am confused by this. Stance makes coilovers specifically for the Z31 that are bolt-on & require no welding? The coils I've seen all kinda resemble S-chassis stuff and don't have the integrated knuckle included... Can you elaborate?

Also, I was searching google for 'Z31 complete bolt-on coilover" and came across this:
http://store.acadianasportscars.com/kdk-020

Could this eliminate the need to swap the rear suspension because now you can just use these adapters with S13 rear coils? Oh wait... Still can't adjust rear camber with this, huh?

And

http://z31performance.com/showthread.ph ... ers-Review

I really don't understand now! This Powertrix review sounds fantastic, claiming a complete bolt-on solution, but also mentioning welding? What is going on here?

EDIT: I think I figured it out... Both Stance and Powertrix setups are bolt-on ONCE you've welded the knuckle onto the bottom of the tube. Is that right? There's no way to escape that welding, huh? Why doesn't someone just make a coilover that INCLUDES the knuckle for a true bolt-on option? They could even modify the knuckle to increase steering angle while they're at it. I'd pay good money for that...

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evildky
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Welcome to owning a car that you can't just build from a catalog. You can send in your strut housings and have them cut and weld the adapters on. Whats the intended purpose fo the car? Budget? Building a car taht sits on the cround and looks cool at the mall is a different formula than an autocross car, which is diffeent from a drag car.

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AZ-ZBum
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SoCal-S13 wrote:lol bronze wheels on this color scheme would look retarted.
Matter of opinion....

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SoCal-S13
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AZ-ZBum wrote:
SoCal-S13 wrote:lol bronze wheels on this color scheme would look retarted.
Matter of opinion....

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Holy wheel gap batman!

But yeah it actually doesn't look too bad

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SoCal-S13
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simmode1 wrote: I think I figured it out... Both Stance and Powertrix setups are bolt-on ONCE you've welded the knuckle onto the bottom of the tube. Is that right? There's no way to escape that welding, huh? Why doesn't someone just make a coilover that INCLUDES the knuckle for a true bolt-on option? They could even modify the knuckle to increase steering angle while they're at it. I'd pay good money for that...

lol yeah i got confused and thought there was a direct bolt on kit. im going to have mine done up for free by a friend if you are interested im sure i could hook you up or at least give you better insight once i do the install myself.

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SoCal-S13
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evildky wrote:Welcome to owning a car that you can't just build from a catalog. You can send in your strut housings and have them cut and weld the adapters on. Whats the intended purpose fo the car? Budget? Building a car taht sits on the cround and looks cool at the mall is a different formula than an autocross car, which is diffeent from a drag car.

thank you sir, and i look forward all these cutting and welding mods. My intended purpose for the car is a reliable daily driver with sexy stance. Ive got the reliability thing handled its just the suspension part. My gut says coilovers while my wallet is screaming lowering springs! lol but eventually the boost will be turned up to 10ish-psi and a fmic will be installed and some form of LSD havent decided. thats pretty much it.

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SoCal-S13
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nothing new to write about yet but this came.......


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SoCal-S13
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Had the day off work and decided to re paint the ugly a** green plenum cover that came with the car when i bought it. Masking it and painting took a little less than 2hrs to complete. Razor blading the masking tape over the lettering after it was painted took forever, but it turned out alright.



Masked everything but lettering:
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Masked off lettering:
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Razor bladed the excess tape off:
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Then blasted it with gloss black:
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End result....i still gotta touch it up a little but thats ballin on a buget


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evildky
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Looks good, much better than the green!

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SoCal-S13
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evildky wrote:Looks good, much better than the green!

Thanks man that green had to go I wasnt feelin it.



Ummmmmmm, my Walbro 255 came in the mail today and I pulled up the carpet and found out the car is already wired for aftermarket audio. All wires are run I literally just have to mount an amplifier and plug the wires into it. I got my old amp from my S chassis just layin around so this is good news.

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simmode1
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AZ-ZBum wrote:
SoCal-S13 wrote:lol bronze wheels on this color scheme would look retarted.
Matter of opinion....

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SoCal-S13 wrote:lol yeah i got confused and thought there was a direct bolt on kit. im going to have mine done up for free by a friend if you are interested im sure i could hook you up or at least give you better insight once i do the install myself.
Valve cover looks great, too! :bigthumb:

I'm just keeping an eye one a few different builds at the moment. Trying to figure out just how far you can get with off the shelf stuff. Dealing with welding the front coilovers & redrilling the rear subframe for adjustable rear camber isn't too bad. Now I'm curious how far a basic bolt-on holset or t3/04e with basic supporting mods will take me. If I can't reuse the stock manifolds, thats gonna be annoying.

Edit: Oooo, nevermind!
http://www.redz31.net/turbofaq/dyno.graphs.html
:yesnod

Soooo... I guess target a T3 equipped model, rebuild the T3 into a T3/T04s and bolt back on to your factory manifold for over 400rwhp on the stock bottom end... Nice.
Last edited by simmode1 on Fri Mar 29, 2013 8:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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SoCal-S13
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yeah the early model turbos were lower compression bigger turbo and the later models have higher compression and smaller turbos. If you had the exhaust side ported to accept a larger turbine wheel on the T3 that would be more than enough im sure. Also the stock bottom mounted setup is a pain in the a** as far as servicing it. You cannot really access s*** from the top, and when youre under the car it is still hard to get to. There is a place that makes a relocation pipe for the turbo that makes it a top mount and gives you a much easier access point. I believe it sits right about where the AC compressor is, so you will need to delete that.

Website: http://store.acadianasportscars.com/dzpreloc

It is pretty over priced, $250 for two flanges welded onto a pipe. If you have the ability this could be replicated for much cheaper, but if you dont it's really you're only option. You could also look at the guys with the NA2T setups if you cant find a stock turbo motor. I have a running 84 Turbo motor w/ harness if you happen to need one... :naughty:

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evildky
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WHen upgrading the turbo you have your exhaust housing milled to fit whatever center section you want. The reason for this is the steering shaft is right in the way, I made my owndownpipe to fit an off the shelf T3O4E in the stock location. If you plan to run an AFM and a larger turbo then relocating certainly helps simplyfy things, Satan also makes relocation pipes or complete manifolds that locate the turbo up front. An upgraded turbo is not much help unless you've already added an intercooler.

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SoCal-S13
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Heres the video of the motor I am selling. Walk around and rev up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yG4vQxIiM8

jsturges18
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What ever happen to the mercedes you picked up awhile back? car looks good so far! I also left the s chassis(put on the back burner) for a z. but a newer one :)

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SoCal-S13
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jsturges18 wrote:What ever happen to the mercedes you picked up awhile back? car looks good so far! I also left the s chassis(put on the back burner) for a z. but a newer one :)

I still have the benz. Its in the same position it was in before. Blown ABC pump and blown front hydraulic shocks. I just cant afford $7k in parts + labor and i dont think trying to insure that s*** with 15 moving violations and a dui will be any cheaper. So its gonna sit. Like it has been.

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SoCal-S13
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Well ive been thinking that while the engine is out and I have room to work I might as well just do.....everything basically. I have always been against removing the fan clutch setup from all of my cars but ive run into a wall trying to design the intercooler piping layout. The location and arrangement of the radiator makes the fan shroud take up the entire space between your bumper and core support and there literally is no way that I can imagine it working unless i remove the shroud, if I do that I might as well remove the fan clutch and open that space up too. Poppin my electric fan cherry. If I wouldnt have bought the oem radiator I would eliminate the stock radiator and mount a 3" aluminum upright one to the core support. This opens up a massive space to work with. I mean massive. You could probably smuggle a mexican in your front bumper. Maybe ill do it when this one needs to be replaced but for now it will work.

Ran around all day trying to get everything and this is what I got

- Spearco 26x8x4 fmic
- s*** of 2.5" piping couplers and clamps
- Turbonetics Raptor BOV
- I got the Walbro 255 yesterday
- Fuel filter
- Altima or Taurus e fan I forget
- Hayden 3647 thermostatic fan speed control

The engine im putting in already has the 90amp Maxima alternator mod done so I have plenty of power to run all the new electronics. Im waiting on a set of 450SEL 420cc injectors. Hopefully I can get them soon but they arent really needed yet. Ive got no more money to play with so i guess its time to get to work. :dblthumb:

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SoCal-S13
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hey guys, I havent been on really at all lately but I completed the engine swap in about 4 days total. I had two buddies help and we moved at a pretty slow pace because I wanted to make sure we did everything properly. Now that ive done this Id say this would take about two full days to complete if you had all the parts before hand. I had to make a few trips in the middle of the job to get necessary fluids and hardware.

I didnt really run into any major issues during the swap at all which was really nice, but a few things popped up that required us to stop working and go buy the necessary parts. Here are some things I ran into and mistakes that I made.

- Dealer didnt include the radiator drain plug so I had to buy a large set screw and some washers.
- All my radiator hoses had this rust layer inside and one pipe had collapsed and was literally pinched in half so I had to go out and buy new ones.
- I pulled the engine and transmission together because the upper transmission bolts looked insanely hard to get to. I drained it and re-filled with gear oil and one quart of Lucas oil while it was on the tire and when the new engine/transmission was being lowered into the engine bay about $35 worth of fresh gear oil poured out onto the floor... :facepalm: lol
- I suspected my clutch slave was going bad before I did the swap but I wasnt sure. I installed the aluminum flywheel and stage 3 clutch and the pedal was firm and responsive at first, but shortly after I went on the first test drive the slave refused to hold any pressure and the pedal just stuck to the floor. When I removed the old slave the tension on the spring released and it just fell apart. Also had to go run and buy a clutch alignment tool to properly install the clutch.
- I forgot to put the intake pipe over the the compressor inlet before we dropped the new motor in and then spent an hour and probably half a can of WD40 trying to slide it on. So dont forget that s***. That driver side motor mount really makes it hard to access the turbo, I think i spent 15 minutes alone tightening the clamp a 1/4 turn at a time.


The only thing I found that needs attention ASAP is my transmission crossmember. There are 4 bolt holes that are used to mount the crossmember to the chassis, apparently the previous owner stripped out all of the threads on the chassis. I pulled two of the large chassis bolts out with just my fingers and the other two bolts came out with the chassis threads still attached. As far as I know my only options are to drill and tap with a larger bolt or to use helicoils. Does anyone have advice on what to do or know an easier route to fix this?


This swap went smoother than any I have ever done thats for sure, and the engine came out of the car so easy it was crazy. Ive done about 4 S chassis swaps and all 4 KA24DE's were more work to get out than the VG. Once we got the engine in and the new harness plugged in it kicked over on the very first try :woot: :mike :gapteeth: , It was such a good feeling hearing it crank over im pretty sure we woke up some neighbors screaming in celebration. Well, enough talk here are the pictures.


My buddy getting started
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Pressure washed the engine bay
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New engine
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Under the car I layed down some black and white poly left over from my hydroponics gear to keep my friends driveway from getting stained with oil. When I pressure washed the car I raised up the sides of the poly to prevent the water from escaping and channelled all the dirty water under the car and off of the driveway. For a random solution it worked like a charm.
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simmode1
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Great pics, taught me alot about the VG30ET's lay out. I had been wondering if it would be worthwhile to have an exhaust manifold that didn't snake around the rear of the engine to improve the placement of the motor for better weight distribution, but now I see that the exhaust manifold is about flush with the intake manifold anyway. Probably not gonna get that motor any further backwards without a huge hassle. No biggie. Motor still look really compact, IMO.

Are you going to relocate your turbo?

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evildky
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The weight distribution is actually pretty dang good fromt he factory, the engien barely hangs past the centerline of the front axles. Would setting it back a bit be better, in a lightened race car probably, in a street car, there is no reason to do so. Setting the engine back in any car is a huge undertaking, fabbing new engine mounts, new transmission mount, relocating shifter, shortenign the driveshaft, lengthening or shortenign countless hoses and wires, not to mention fabbing new exhaust and in the case of a turbo, new oil supply and return lines in addition to the needed new manifolds ro relocation pipes and depending ont he injection system new air inlet's as well as repiping for the intercooelr. In the Z31 the engine is actually pretty close to the firewall, the lower portion of the firewall is clearanced for that crossover pipe.

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SoCal-S13
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I haven't posted any updates here in a while. Got a union job as an electrician and I've been hella busy. I took a weekend to just analyze all the wiring and s*** since the engine swap and was amazed at what I found. The car had been misfiring at idle, running hot, idling at about 1200 rpm and just overall running like crap. After drivong for about 30 min i could feel a lot of heat on my feet coming through the firewall. My temp gauge hadn't worked since the swap so I had no way to tell if I was overheating or not. I did some research on the cylinder head temp sensor and came to the conclusion that this was most likely my problem. Lol I unplugged it at the connector and traced the wire to the harness and sure as s*** one of the wires was not even connected. I re-wired the connector and BAM car runs like a dream. Idles at 800rpm, no more misfire, no more stumbling under boost and for some reason my gear changes feel like butter now. I wanted to kick myself cuz the fix was so simple. Next I went after my non working temp gauge. After inspecting the wire that was connected to it I found a section that had made contact with the exhaust manifold and was melted through almost completely. I cit the wire and spliced a new one to it, connected it to the temp sensor and once again.....BAM temp gauge works. Stupid.

So after about a week of having the car running like a dream I run to the liquor store right down the street, grab some beers and jump in and start the car. I put it in reverse and went about 5 feet and the car just cuts out. My security light isn't even blinking so I knew it was something serious. I lift the hood and see my positive battery cable melted to my exhaust manifold and its sparking like crazy and then the cable lights on fire and shoots sparks everywhere. I run to the driver side and pop the hatch to try and find something non conductive to knock the cable off the manifold. First thing I see is my carbon fiber hockey stick, I grabbed it and ran back to the hood and the s*** was still flaming so I pry the cable off the manifold and put the flames out. I heard the terminal cracking and popping at the battery post so I didn't even want to try and disconnect anything. Lol I just shut the hood, pushed it into the parking space and had it towed the next morning. This is what you get for not double checking all of your s*** after swapping out an engine or replacing all of the inexpensive parts the previous owner neglected. When I removed the cable I found three other spots that were burned badly from the previous owner. I replaced the cable and warrantied my battery just to be safe and now the car seems to start up much better than before.

One thing I don't understand is after I replaced the battery cable the compass on my dash just magically started working. It hasn't worked since I bought the car. Lol

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SoCal-S13
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Just some recent pics. Rockin stock wheels again until I find a replacement Z33 rim. Still haven't found one since the accident. Lol and my front lip fell off, I gotta zip tie that s*** back on



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3ohhhturb0
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Sweet looking Z, keep the pics flowing.

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SoCal-S13
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I guess I forgot to add the whole car accident part. I was on my way to orientation for my new job and some d!ck blew a red a blasted into me with his honda and proceeded to just leave as if nothing happened.


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My new wheel got cracked, brand new tire destroyed, strut housing destroyed, brake line severed, and obviously the fender is done.


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The strut housing actually snapped off inside the knuckle and the entire housing jumped out of the knuckle. f*** retarted. I found the entire assembly at the junk yard so mechanically everything is fixed, I just need to find a 50th AE fender. Car is back on stock wheels until I can find 1 front 350z Anniversary wheel.


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