When is HICAS not needed?

[Z Pedigree TT]

Okay so to start off, I have done reading about removing/not removing HICAS but I get too many mixed answers. I understand track go-ers deffinetly like to have the HICAS system removed because it can mess with the feel of the car and is semi-unpredictable. Others say if you dont take it to the track there is no point in removing it.

I drive a 91 300zx tt that is around 400hp and I do not go to the track often but I still like to push it on the mountain roads nearby. So could anyone give me their opinion on if I should remove it or if it would be a better idea to just hold onto it.

Also, with removing HICAS, obviously the z32 has a distribution of about 55/45 so to completely delete HICAS, what kind of effect would it have on the distribution and on what end.

So opinions please!

[CaleJDMZ32]

on a 2+0 you wont effect the weight distribution enough to cause a difference.
Personally I dont like the feeling of the HICAS, if you punch it on a slight curve the back end just kicks out sideways hard because it trys to correct itself.
I dont like my car correcting things I know how to correct manually. I mean if you dont have any issues with it then dont mess with it, if its a noticeable headache then remove it, really depending on how you drive will determine if you need it or not.

[Z Pedigree TT]

Thanks man. Did you remove your HICAS? If you did, did you completely remove it or just use a lock bar?

[CaleJDMZ32]

I havent gotten around to removing mine yet, but when I do I plan on doing the full removal with the SPL kit, also removing the TT pump/reservoir for the N/A model and I have heard rumors of the N/A steering rack having a tighter ratio in it because it doesnt have to run the HICAS, if I can verify this ill be swapping to the N/A rack as well, begone with the hole stock TT system haha

[Ace2cool]

My 2+2 was SO much easier to turn, yet still maintained a solid feel at higher speeds. I'm going to be deleting my HICAS at some point in the near future for sure. The N/A definitely has a better ratio.

[Z Pedigree TT]

I also hear apart taking the NA rear axle and putting that into the 2+0? Do either of you guys know something about that? Im not sure if that would really change any handling or gearing.

[Ace2cool]

The N/A has a 4.08 ratio, whereas the TT has a 3.69. You'll get a helluvalot more takeoff from the N/A differential, but you'll also run higher RPMs on the highway.

[NotSoFairladyZ]

When is HICAS needed?? I feel it's totally on your driving characteristics and style. Don't get me wrong now HICAS is cool technology, but not for me. On my TT car I did a complete NA power steering system (except for the steering rack and I haven't ever seen one or heard of any one talk of swapping to the NA rack) which involved installing the NA PS pump and reservoir, and removing all the other rear steer crap that is actually a good bit of weight taken off the front, middle, and rear of the car(pump is smaller lighter/pump bracket is aluminum/less fluid). Eliminate those damn leaky lines going under the frame (unless you have a '94 w/ elec. HICAS). And of course the Z1 eliminator bar, but the SPL eliminator is really the way to go if you are going to track the car. For me the selling point was easier to maintain, a vehicle that was more sure footed (subjective), and a little weight reduction. I guess the question lies in when does driving not need HICAS?

[red coupe89]

ive been debating the same thing on my 91. after driving 5 or 10 min my light comes on and i cant get the code out of it. i like the way it handles when its working properly though. going to look into the lock back and line removal as the winter continues. also getting rid of that damn light.

[Ace2cool]

If the light comes on while driving, usually your PS fluid is low. If the fluid is at proper level, then most likely the sender is bad. There's a HICAS test mode to make sure the HICAS is actually working.

[Z Pedigree TT]

so would overall, the NA axle would lower my top end as far as top speed? (not that i would be totally worried about that). Anyone have any experience with better or worse racing street or track with NA axle on twin turbo 2+0?

[zcar93na]

Yes, the 4.08 gears from an NA would drop your top speed. But, it will make you accelerate faster and it will pull harder under a load. But, if all you're planning to do with the car is drive it, then stick with the 3.70 TT rearend. The lower ratio will also affect your fuel mileage .

[Ace2cool]

The lower ratio will also affect your fuel mileage .

This. If you do a lot of highway driving like me, the TT gets way better mileage. 3 to 4 mpg better on average than the 2+2 used to get. At 70mph in the TT, I run about 2500 rpm, whereas in the 2+2 I would be sitting at 3k on the money. It adds up.

[Z Pedigree TT]

For short street pulls and a better launch/0-60 time you would all go with the NA axle and fully delete the HICAS system?

[zcar93na]

Yes, but if I remember correctly you have to put an NA subframe under the TT because the diffs bolt up differently. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, I've read so much here lately that everything is starting to run together on me

[Ace2cool]

For short street pulls

Wanna go fast? Take it to the track. At least respect the Z to not race it against some ricer on the street. But yes, for faster takeoff, the shorter ratio is better.

And yes, I believe the entire rear subframe is different. I can't be 100% on that though, because I had a 2+2. You can't just "swap the pumpkin" like on American cars.

[Ace2cool]

I also believe the N/A differential has a different bolt pattern. So you would have to get a different DS. Can someone verify that for me?

[zcar93na]

I also believe the N/A differential has a different bolt pattern. So you would have to get a different DS

http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/archive/i ... 83377.html

7th post down, you are correct, Aaron