When is a FMIC an overkill?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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SullivanRacing06
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Car: r32 gtst, 06 350z, r32 gtr, rs4 steaga, 04 350z, f350/6bt
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no such thing as to large


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Neejay
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mattleegee wrote:Neejay what did you end up getting?I finnally got you a picture of it all installed if you still wanted ithttp://i75.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg
Glad you mention that, here is a post I just made on a local forum:

#1: Are these brackets ok? The intercooler was rocking back and forth SLIGHTLY, but this was without the front bumper on and the piping connected:



#2: Hotpipe: Will a regular coupler + T-clamp be ok on it?



Preliminary fitting. I do realize that the driver's side is slightly lower...will be raised slightly.


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rbsileighty
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch w/ RB20 & 05 Audi S4 Avant 6MT

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Stock interheater isn't a good unit to hold on to unless you have to... especially if you load your car more than a few times per outing...

"There is no such thing as to big of an intercooler" is true more or less... but the key is the geometry of the air path... here's the best description I've read on this topic:

"Q: As we photographed the car, you mentioned choosing (among other things) gear ratio, intercooler size, and the backpressure-to-boost-ratio work to select turbine nozzles. How did you decide on these? Are any of them slightly overkill with some extra built in, or are they just right for the job and will need to be changed if something else changes?

A: Intercooler size is somewhat like fuel-line size or air conditioning condenser size—you almost can't make them too big. The entire goal for an intercooler is maximum cooling and minimum pressure drop. As you make them bigger the cooling always gets better, but just making an air-to-air intercooler taller eventually starts increasing pressure drop, which of course is bad. There's some juggling there where it actually gets worse. The water intercooler I selected is the biggest one I could squeeze under the fender without mods, and the beauty is that it's exactly twice the size of many 5.0L and 5.7 Chevy aftermarket water-air intercoolers, but they are just dying for more available room. At twice that size, it calculated out pretty well. Once you decide to intercool, it's a bad place to cut corners to try and save a buck."

It's from this article... it's an oldie but a good one http://www.hotrod.com/techarti....html

neonbomb
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Solution to all gay intercooler discussions

google.comsearch: thermodynamicsreadsearch: fluid dynamicsread

education is key to life gentlemen

Bluefire
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neonbomb wrote:Solution to all gay intercooler discussions

google.comsearch: thermodynamicsreadsearch: fluid dynamicsread

education is key to life gentlemen
Wow couldn't have said it any better... I actually had a couple paragraph reply but decided not to post it, since know would understand or give a s***. And interestingly enough I recently finished my thermodynamics and fluid mechanics series classes...

-Bluefire

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Carl H
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^ what they said.

i used this in the neo build i did, works wonderfully.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...76392

johnny butt
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Carl H wrote:^ what they said.

i used this in the neo build i did, works wonderfully.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...76392
i have this same intercooler.

Yellow4g63
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This is what I think of the stock sidemount.The car felt good all the time vs just when you 1st start it.

ST240
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Johnnt butt and Carl H i have the same one how did you fit that thing? I thinking of cutting a piece out of the the back of the bumper support... kinda defeats the purpose of half of the intercooler tho haha.

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Carl H
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i mounted the core under the bumper support, was very quick and easy.

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rbsileighty
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I cut the center section of my bumper support out for mine (sides are still rigid so the bumper doesn't flex to much)... just make sure you baffle off the air gaps between the cooler and the body to a degree (not sacrificing your radiator) and you should be all set... a good benchmark for the setup is how the factory sets up the radiator/air condenser which are much taller than the bumper opening...
Modified by rbsileighty at 2:02 PM 4/30/2009

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Neejay
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I got it installed and everything. Seems to pull harder and the cone filter and bpv are more audible.

The problem is that I now get to about 190F and it got up to almost 200F when I pushed it. I had to pull over into QT, pop the hood, keep e-fans on and the temp dropped fast and leveled out.

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Carl H
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welcome to the wonderful world of trying to keep an rb cool in an s chassis.

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240daveTX
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i used this one for a r32

28 x 12x 3 fmic for a r32, had to slightly modify a pipe to fit but it works amazingly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...04629


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Kansei240sx
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Ducting is everything when it comes to keeping an RB cool. Never EVER cut up the front bumper to make "more air" flow into it as actually hurts the flow of the front end. The factory opening is more than enough to keep your radiator and intercooler from getting hot. You need to duct the front end and if you cant weld up some aluminum ducting, try rivets and industrial caulking.

The front factory opening of the front bumper or basically a foot or so off the ground is the high pressure area of the front end, if you can channel air through it and consistantly with cowls after the radiator and divert the air out through the hood and bottom if will make drastic improvements on cooling.

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sleepersilvia92
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Car: 1993 240sx coupe s1 rb25det,1989 hatch sr20det

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i have the kit that is in the first picture on this post and i am running my rb25det at stock 5 psi and have no problems. the piping staying on the one side is supposedly better compared to the other kits that crossover near the radiator and go into a standard front mount with the two outlets on either side.i got mine from rbperformance and im very happy i just had to trim one on the pipe so it cleared my hood. my kit is identical to the one in the first picture

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Neejay
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Carl H wrote:welcome to the wonderful world of trying to keep an rb cool in an s chassis.
yes, and it sucks when your resources/workspace is limited to apartment parking lots. And it also sucks because I wasn't having this problem until the fmic install.

So far: half a bottle of water wetter, raised rear of hood, propped bottom of bumper opening back up on to where it bolts up to normally (radiator support), added foam on the sides of the radiator.

Temp stays around 180f just cruising, until I first boost through the gears, then it raises and stays around 190F...then when I boost again, it goes to 195 or so. Pop hood, leave fans running = almost INSTANT cool down.

I'll make another thread once I try a few more things. I can't get the engine coolant bolt out either.

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stevespeed
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I have a standard straight through style flowing intercooler, and an Isis intake manifold I figured that with how little room there is to cool this thing to begin with having a pipe going either right next back to my turbo or over the top of my engine wasnt the greatest idea ever thought up for my freshly cooled charged air.

I am getting everything setup this week and Ill post pictures along with some math of why a HUGE front mount is bad for a tinny tiny turbo.


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