When installing Wastegate Question

[72nismo]

So I am running an internal wastegate actuator and now I am changing to a external wastegate. So my question is after I hook up external wastegate do I just disconnect the rod on the internal wastegate??I say disconnect before I actually take it completely off just want to make sure it is going to work.

[Chezedik]

No, it will open on it's own without resistance. You need to weld it shut.

EDIT: or take it off and use a block-off flange.

[ZiG]

Why not just leave the internal wastegate alone? If you just leave it alone and dont hook it up to a boost/vac source, it will never open. If you disconnect the rod, the thing could swivel open and closed all the time because nothing will be there to hold it in place.

[Chezedik]

Just as well. Except that eventually you will end up with a sort of exhaust leak when the spring pressure is overcome. But of course, this will not happen until Pressure = Spring Pressure+Atmospheric Pressure, which you are not likely to be running, are you?

[RFcool]

i have installed a tial .38mm wastegate atmospherically dumped. however the problem i have right now before the car runs is where to run vaccum lines. there are twon the wastegate....one on bottom and one on top side. i have 2 bungs on my t3 .60 trim turbo, one of which is my oil return line, but do i attach the one on the turbo to the wastegate itself and leave the other open. im not running any boost controller yet, but will in the future. the bungs are the same size on the turbo and the wastegate, so any answers would be welcome. i have searched and everyone says to do something else. i have it hooked up on the bottom of the turbo to the bottom of the wastegate. The car still isnt 100 done yet but just tested it today to see if it ran and it does. so i just want to make sure it release properly like this guy. thanks

[WDRacing]

The external wastegate boost reference port that requires the vacuum signal in order to work is on the side. The top will be unused in your application. You don't use that except with certain electronic boost controllers. You don not have to cover or plug this bung.

The wastegate vacuum source can be anything on the intake manifold itself. Most people use the line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. You just have to add a T and then run a line to the wastegate. You can use the bung on the compressor housing for boost reference, but the intake manifold is a better option. Any vacuum line removed or unplugged from one end will need to be plugged with a screw or bolt and zip tied.

To keep the internal wastegate from opening you just disconnect the vacuum line from the actuator itself and plug it. If the actuator doesn't see no boost signal, it won't open.

Hope that helps