Front..........
19x8.5 +30mm with 245/35/19
Rear............
19x9.5 +33mm with 275/30/19
Stock height. So the question is can I turn? I'm sure I'll have to roll the fenders, but that's fine..l thanks in advance
15mm spacer will make them stick out more. Just see about getting them redrilled and they will fit fine.Ziggy1621 wrote:Funny how peeps always have to try to be a comedian when they're helping others out![]()
Low rider look I can handle. Rubbing at full lock I can handle. I have heard that Adaptec can custom make a 15mm adapter which would save me 10mm. You guys think that would help them tuck?
Why does everyone have to be a smart A? I've done a ton of research and there are no bad reviews of redrilling from people who have actually done it.. only from people who have not.BigTDogg (MA) wrote:Redrilling is a terrible idea. Here's a good idea: get wheels that fit the Z.
how did you get that impression? i don't think anybody judges you based on your post count.Ziggy1621 wrote:
I'm guessing that people look at how many posts you have made to this site, and try to judge based upon that how 'smart' someone is when it comes to cars.
The best way to do it would be on a mill with a rotary table and a hub centering device. That would at least ensure the pattern is centered around the hub. Hopefully they know what they're doing.Ziggy1621 wrote:Yeah, I lost that battle with the calculator. But I have found a company in Orlando who drills and presses to change the bot pattern, so thats what I'm leaning toward. Thanks!
QFT.BigTDogg wrote:Redrilling is a terrible idea. Here's a good idea: get wheels that fit the Z.

TTkickedin wrote:
Redrilling IS a bad idea. Looks like crap. This doesn't even need a review.
Soo, what's this tin foil hat post-count conspiracy you speak of? Enlighten me, I'm a bit confused.


Uh.... Just because I'm getting free wheels, doesn't mean I'm an idiot.... And you obviously haven't checked prices on redrills. There is a reputable company in Orlando who does it for $50 per wheel. There are good reviews of them in this forumTTkickedin wrote:One would assume, since the op is trying to fit free wheels, that he wouldn't pay to get it done right.
Paying to get it done right would likely outweigh the cost of getting wheels that fit (after all other costs are factored in as one total)
But those do, definitely look like crap. The redrills I posted

My wheels cost $15 a wheel to redrill and insert. Hardly a bank breaker, lol. The redrills you posted aren't relevant since it is a completely different bolt pattern and a cover goes over that, so it isn't seen. The only way to do a redrill from 5x120 to 5x114.3 is the method I posted. And it's cheap. And safe.TTkickedin wrote:One would assume, since the op is trying to fit free wheels, that he wouldn't pay to get it done right.
Paying to get it done right would likely outweigh the cost of getting wheels that fit (after all other costs are factored in as one total)
But those do, definitely look like crap. The redrills I posted
It is a lot easier. Like I posted. He's comparing apples to oranges.BigTDogg (MA) wrote:You also posted a 5 to 4 redrill. I guess a 5 to 5 could be done easier.
Stretching out your argument there aren't you? I've gone from 18 lbs wheels, to 27 lbs wheels along with 25mm bolt on spacers, and tracked on each and every set up with stock NA brake set up. It honestly isn't much of a difference in braking braking ability. I speak from experience.TTkickedin wrote:Op,
"after all costs are considered" the wheels will probably cost more than wheels that fit. No matter how you swing it. 200 plus shipping if you don't live near them? If you do, then 200. Then, custom wheel spacers if u don't redrill? Flaring fenders and repainting your car? Proper tires...
Now, would you like a demonstration as far as the whole needing upgraded brakes with larger, heavier wheels goes?
Go 60 to 0 as fast as you can on your stock wheels. then 100 to 0. U can either measure distance or time, whichever you have the means to do but distance would be the most adequate test. U can measure these long distances with a certain tool you may find at home depot.
Then, install your 'free' wheels, then do the same test.. tell me how it works for you. I'm curious to see the results. All I'm saying is, you're making an argument saying you don't need upgraded brakes. The Tt brakes are okay for stock, not good. If you upgrade them, you will feel and notice the substantial difference. hence the word 'upgrade'.
Increasing brake distance isn't a good idea, even by a little. Don't sit here and say that's okay.