Wheel width fitment

[Destrto]

Hey guys, I couldnt really find a post on here that gavve me the info I was looking for.

My question is, for those of you that are running larger and wider than stock wheels (rims) on your car. Are you still using the stock Front upper control arm spindle? Or what have you done or had to do to make them fit without rubbing?

Here's what I mean. Currently, I have stock 16" wheels all around on my N/A. 16"x 7.5". The wheels I'm looking at getting will be 18"x8.5" for the front. And as of right now, with how close the stock wheels are to the FUCA and spindle, it doesn't look like a wider wheel will fit without rubbing.

What have you guys done for this? Gotten wheel spacers? Gotten a set of wheels with an offset closer to 0, to push the rim itself further out from the car? Just looking for some insight here.

[NolimitZ32]

You need to know the offset to figure out the actual fitment.

[Destrto]

Well, the stock wheels are obviously +45 offset. And the wheels I'm currently looking at are +35 or +38.

I'm also asking these questions due to the fact that I've never put anything but stock wheels on any car I've had. So, I'm not very familiar with how things change from that.

[NolimitZ32]

http://www.tsw.com/explore/what-is-wheel-offset.php

First take a look at that site, then google other explanations if you are still confused, Tirerack has some very good resources as well. Basically a +35 or +38 8.5 wide on the front should be no problem as long as you select the correct size tire. I am currently running 255/35R18s on a 18x9.5 +45 with a 10mm spacer which make my effective offset +35. I have about 1/4" clearance between the tire and upper control arm mount of the spindle assy. Also I can't run factory fender liners because the tire hits them. I'm going to be modifying some fender liners to work with my setup. Also check out rimtuck.com and contact some of the folks there.

[Destrto]

http://www.tsw.com/explore/what-is-wheel-offset.php

First take a look at that site, then google other explanations if you are still confused, Tirerack has some very good resources as well. Basically a +35 or +38 8.5 wide on the front should be no problem as long as you select the correct size tire. I am currently running 255/35R18s on a 18x9.5 +45 with a 10mm spacer which make my effective offset +35. I have about 1/4" clearance between the tire and upper control arm mount of the spindle assy. Also I can't run factory fender liners because the tire hits them. I'm going to be modifying some fender liners to work with my setup. Also check out rimtuck.com and contact some of the folks there.

Ok, thanks. That's the type of info I'm looking for because I've never used aftermarket wheels on my car, so I don't have any visual reference in person.. Someone running aftermarket, what did they do to make it fit. My plan is to run the correct size tire for that wheel so that vehicle speed is as uneffected as possible.

I understand that fender clearance will change. I understand what offset is and how it works. My main concern was that the stock wheels currently look like they are so close to touching the FUCA spindle assembly, that putting anything wider on would rub.

[NolimitZ32]

If you go with a wider tire or wheel but want to maintain the same clearance on the inside you have to go with a lower offset which will push the centerline of the wheel/tire combo to the outside of the vehicle, thus making your clearance to the fender less. https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp play around on this site, it has a really good graphical representation of all this.

[Destrto]

If you go with a wider tire or wheel but want to maintain the same clearance on the inside you have to go with a lower offset which will push the centerline of the wheel/tire combo to the outside of the vehicle, thus making your clearance to the fender less. https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp play around on this site, it has a really good graphical representation of all this.

Thanks, I was actually trying to find that site again from the stickied post about wheel fitment.

It just helps me to see it visually, because in my head, if a 7.5 inch wheel at +45 offset sits this close to the FUCA, wouldn't an 8.5 inch wheel with only 35 offset hit?

[NolimitZ32]

It won't touch, the inside of the rim will be closer to your suspension by approximately 3mm ( an inch is 25.4 mm ) so as your wheel grows by 1 inch or 25.4 mm in overall width it is also moved 10mm further to the outside because the 35mm places the mounting pad 10mm closer to the centerline of the wheel, the 25.4 has to be split in 2 because the wheel grows overall 25.4 or 12.7mm at each face. Most factory wheels (and aftermarket wheels for that matter) have a positive offset, this is the distance between the centerline of the wheel and the mounting surface of the hub as it moves toward the outside of the wheel, the higher the number the farther away the mounting surface moves to the outside of the wheel/car, thus the wheel barrel moves closer to the inside of the wheel well. A 0 offset places the mounting pad at the centerline, a +10 offset places the mounting pad 10mm to the outside of the wheel thus moving the whole wheel in by 10mm when mounted to the hub. If you want to see this graphically play around with different offsets on the rimsntires site or search some of the tech videos on tirerack, this is all explained in a plethora of resources in every way possible on the web.

Factory wheel is 7.5" (190mm) +45mm
190/2=95, 95+45=140
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 140mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub.

MY setup: 9.5" (242mm) +45mm (with a 10mm spacer which reduces the offset of the wheel making effective offset +35mm) so we can calculate using +35 not +45
242/2=121, 121+35=156
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 156mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub

Your setup: 8.5" (216mm) +35mm
216/2=108, 108+35=143mm
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 143mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub which is only 3mm closer than stock.

The biggest problem that most people run into with fitting aftermarket wheels to the Z32 is the clearance for the brake caliper on the FRONT, the factory 4 pots are fat and require a lot more clearance than most cars.

[Destrto]

It won't touch, the inside of the rim will be closer to your suspension by approximately 3mm ( an inch is 25.4 mm ) so as your wheel grows by 1 inch or 25.4 mm in overall width it is also moved 10mm further to the outside because the 35mm places the mounting pad 10mm closer to the centerline of the wheel, the 25.4 has to be split in 2 because the wheel grows overall 25.4 or 12.7mm at each face. Most factory wheels (and aftermarket wheels for that matter) have a positive offset, this is the distance between the centerline of the wheel and the mounting surface of the hub as it moves toward the outside of the wheel, the higher the number the farther away the mounting surface moves to the outside of the wheel/car, thus the wheel barrel moves closer to the inside of the wheel well. A 0 offset places the mounting pad at the centerline, a +10 offset places the mounting pad 10mm to the outside of the wheel thus moving the whole wheel in by 10mm when mounted to the hub. If you want to see this graphically play around with different offsets on the rimsntires site or search some of the tech videos on tirerack, this is all explained in a plethora of resources in every way possible on the web.

Factory wheel is 7.5" (190mm) +45mm
190/2=95, 95+45=140
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 140mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub.

MY setup: 9.5" (242mm) +45mm (with a 10mm spacer which reduces the offset of the wheel making effective offset +35mm) so we can calculate using +35 not +45
242/2=121, 121+35=156
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 156mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub

Your setup: 8.5" (216mm) +35mm
216/2=108, 108+35=143mm
So the inside edge of the barrel is approximately 143mm to the inside of the wheel well from the face of the hub which is only 3mm closer than stock.

The biggest problem that most people run into with fitting aftermarket wheels to the Z32 is the clearance for the brake caliper on the FRONT, the factory 4 pots are fat and require a lot more clearance than most cars.

Right, going by the numbers, I should have plenty of clearance. But going by eyesight currently, it looks like it will cut it very close. I wish I knew how to attach a picture here to show best I can what I see when I look at the distance between the inside lip of my rim and the FUCA spindle. Haha. Because from all of your explaining it sounds like I'm just overthinking things. Which could very well be true. I just dont want to purchase a new set of wheels, thinking i have all the dimensions correct, only to find out something was off and they dont fit.

[brian300zx]

I’m runnin 18x9.5 +15 with no problems at all

[Destrto]

I’m runnin 18x9.5 +15 with no problems at all

This is in the front, right? And are you able to go from wheel lock left to right and they don't hit on anything?

[NolimitZ32]

Brian, give the tire and suspension specs.

[DCaff300ZX]

I run 18X8.5 that measure almost 9" total due to rear mount and beefy face, +15 offset all around. I do have Powertrix coilovers with adjustable arms and run a little extra camber but not too much. I run 255/18/40's up front and 275/18/35's rear. The rears just bulge a smidge past the wheel lip and overall come almost to the wheelwell edge, with just about 3 mm of internal room for HICAS and lower arm- no issues at all possible anywhere else. The fronts are sunken about 15mm due to the similar offset as rear and could easily come out the 10mm spacers/studs I have, but not installed yet. No rubbing on liners, period, but very close DS full lock right, maybe .5mm (can't even start wiggling a little finger in) but no rub noises ever and it will only be better with the spacers which will move the inner wheel/tire edge away from the car.
Mine just got a new set of Conti's last week in those sizes, tire rack ran an awesome sale.
I think you're fine, worst case scenario $100 for 10mm spacers plus stud kits and you're golden.

[brian300zx]

Sorry I’m a little late on this but I’m completely slammed on Tein coilovers tire specs in the front are 225/40/18 I honestly have plenty of room for a bigger tire but I like the look, in the rear I’m running 235/40/18 and if I raise the car I can of course run a bigger tire but I’m tucking tires all around I have full Godspeed suspension arms running -4.5 camber in the rear and -3 in the front. Yes everyone advised me to no do this but I like the look and about 3k miles on this set up without a problem @z32brian on insta if you wanna check out my build

[Destrto]

I run 18X8.5 that measure almost 9" total due to rear mount and beefy face, +15 offset all around. I do have Powertrix coilovers with adjustable arms and run a little extra camber but not too much. I run 255/18/40's up front and 275/18/35's rear. The rears just bulge a smidge past the wheel lip and overall come almost to the wheelwell edge, with just about 3 mm of internal room for HICAS and lower arm- no issues at all possible anywhere else. The fronts are sunken about 15mm due to the similar offset as rear and could easily come out the 10mm spacers/studs I have, but not installed yet. No rubbing on liners, period, but very close DS full lock right, maybe .5mm (can't even start wiggling a little finger in) but no rub noises ever and it will only be better with the spacers which will move the inner wheel/tire edge away from the car.
Mine just got a new set of Conti's last week in those sizes, tire rack ran an awesome sale.
I think you're fine, worst case scenario $100 for 10mm spacers plus stud kits and you're golden.

Ok, nice. Thanks for all that info. Hearing what other's run helps me get an idea of what to look for with mine.

My biggest concern has been clearance up front for the Upper control arm spindle. But from doing more research and searching, getting an offset closer to 0 should fix that for me since I want to go with a wider wheel than the stock size.

[Destrto]

Sorry I’m a little late on this but I’m completely slammed on Tein coilovers tire specs in the front are 225/40/18 I honestly have plenty of room for a bigger tire but I like the look, in the rear I’m running 235/40/18 and if I raise the car I can of course run a bigger tire but I’m tucking tires all around I have full Godspeed suspension arms running -4.5 camber in the rear and -3 in the front. Yes everyone advised me to no do this but I like the look and about 3k miles on this set up without a problem @z32brian on insta if you wanna check out my build

Hey man, I checked yours out on Insta. I like that look. Not sure why people told you not to go with that camber, cause to me it looks really good.

[NolimitZ32]

Its not about the look, its about the tire wear. And about the handling at the limit.

[brian300zx]

Camber wear is actually not that bad surprisingly tires still look new and I daily the car so I do canyon runs about once a month handling isn’t as bad as you would think either only downside is going up steep driveways lol

[NolimitZ32]

Brian, as before I'm not going to try to convince you of anything other than what physics will prove, by all means its your car so do what you will with it, the handling I'm referring to is at the limit, when you've fully loaded your time in a corner you want the grip to start giving way predictably, in the case of a cambered tire since your contact patch is smaller and you are near the sidewall the grip could disappear very quickly. Again this is a conversation about the limit and if you are DDing this thing and you don't drive like a complete a$$ you shold be fine. As for the wear, the tires will wear more on the inside guaranteed, that's the part of the tire you are driving on, not a huge deal but you do cut the potential full life of the tire in about half.

[Destrto]

Brian, as before I'm not going to try to convince you of anything other than what physics will prove, by all means its your car so do what you will with it, the handling I'm referring to is at the limit, when you've fully loaded your time in a corner you want the grip to start giving way predictably, in the case of a cambered tire since your contact patch is smaller and you are near the sidewall the grip could disappear very quickly. Again this is a conversation about the limit and if you are DDing this thing and you don't drive like a complete a$$ you shold be fine. As for the wear, the tires will wear more on the inside guaranteed, that's the part of the tire you are driving on, not a huge deal but you do cut the potential full life of the tire in about half.

I agree with you there. That's the biggest down side for me.Which is why I'm on the hunt for a good wide set of wheels for the rear, keeping camber at a minimum, so that all 4 tires sit flat on the road.

I appreciate you guys giving me different insights too, because I dont have a way to just swap different wheel setups on my car at will. Which makes it tough to actually see what certain setups will look like and/or fit correctly.

[brian300zx]

Of course man don’t see too many guys with stanced set ups on this forum so always willing to help!