1. I’m confused about what does “wheel stage” mean…like stage I, II, III.
2. I want to go with an HKS wastegate, but they only offer them at 40mm it that going to be to big? (9psi from a T3/T4)
3. a) This is a stupid question: how do I retard my timing manually? b) What should I use for ignition control (or will an ignition amplifier be enough Like the HKS Twin Power)
4. I’ll be going with Iridium spark plugs and I have a question about heat range, at the HKS website they list them from 6-11 what does that all mean?, and which heat range should I get?
Wheel Stages, Wastegate Sizes, & Ignition Control
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I can't answer all your questions because I don't know the answers, but the wastegate would be fine I think... bigger is usually better. And it will open or close as needed to control boost. At least you wont' have to worry about creep.You can retard your timing by turning the distributor and using a timing light.
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C-Kwik
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Wheel stage refers to the size. Essentially, within a turbo size(i.e. T04E or T04B) the outer or major diameter of the compressor wheel is the same. Different trim levels tend to correspond with different inner or minor diameters of the compressor wheels.
A 40 mm wastegate will likely be more than enough for your goals.
You can use some sort of ignition control device, or you can simply loosen the distributor bolts and turn the distributor. Use a timing gun. Keep in mind that doing it this way will retard timing across the board, so you would affect off boost timing as well. Boost dependent timing retard systems are a pretty good option.
The HKS twin power and MSD and the like are nothing more than amplifiers. Some have various other features though and may include a ignition retard system of some sort.
The heat range refers to how long the insulator nose is. This affects how quicklyt heat can be dissapated into the heads from the plug. A longer insulator nose will take longer to cool and run hotter. Too hot and your plug can become a source for detonation to start. Too cold and the self-cleaning natyure of the plugs will be lost and your plugs will foul. IIRC the stock KA plugs are in the 7 the range. With a turbo, a lower heat range is usually a little better to stave off detonation. With a street car, I'd go no more than one heat range lower.Race cars can maybe get away with more depending on how hot the motor and combustion temps are.
A 40 mm wastegate will likely be more than enough for your goals.
You can use some sort of ignition control device, or you can simply loosen the distributor bolts and turn the distributor. Use a timing gun. Keep in mind that doing it this way will retard timing across the board, so you would affect off boost timing as well. Boost dependent timing retard systems are a pretty good option.
The HKS twin power and MSD and the like are nothing more than amplifiers. Some have various other features though and may include a ignition retard system of some sort.
The heat range refers to how long the insulator nose is. This affects how quicklyt heat can be dissapated into the heads from the plug. A longer insulator nose will take longer to cool and run hotter. Too hot and your plug can become a source for detonation to start. Too cold and the self-cleaning natyure of the plugs will be lost and your plugs will foul. IIRC the stock KA plugs are in the 7 the range. With a turbo, a lower heat range is usually a little better to stave off detonation. With a street car, I'd go no more than one heat range lower.Race cars can maybe get away with more depending on how hot the motor and combustion temps are.