So I know it's a touchy topic, but I just don't have the funds to replace my wheels and tires at this time. I just put new tires on my stock 16" wheels last year. Only put about 4,000 miles on it since. (Not primary vehicle)
I'd like to offset the wheels, not sure what spacers to go with. Some people say as long as they are quality made and hub centric, they're fine. Others say you need new longer studs for them not to be "widow makers". Well I have zero experience with spacers. I read a few threads on here that were buried pretty well. Would someone mind assisting me in the proper selection, if any?
Thanks.

There are two types of spacers to be aware of: spacers and adapters.

Spacers are just thin plates of metal, usually up to about 1/4" thick. These just slip over the wheel studs, between hub and wheel. You might need longer wheel studs to be on the safe side. Ideally, you'd want wheel studs to be as much longer as the spacers are thick. Specifically for the R50, you can buy rear wheel studs and install them up front. Keep in mind, though, that you may also want deeper lug nuts...not just for fitment, but instead if you ever have to run without a wheel spacer for any reason...the OE lug nuts might not be deep enough to properly seat the wheel to the hub.

I run the exact setup described above: 1/4" spacers (front only), rear wheel studs up front, taller lugs. I have a write up on other suitable wheel stud options for both front and rear using other Nissans studs on NPORA, but the forum has been down so I can't get the link. Replacing the front wheel studs requires completely removing the wheel hub from the truck. Replacing the rears can be done with a hammer while everything is still on the truck. I use cheap ball joint remover from Harbor Freight for both, and a thick washer and open-end nuts to seat them to the hub. The OE thread pitch is 12mm x 1.25.

This type of spacer isn't generally balanced, and will usually fit multiple bolt patterns. Expect some wobbles at higher speeds.

Adapters are thicker, usually CNC'd spacers. They are adapters because they adapt one bolt pattern to another...or adapt one bolt pattern to the same bolt pattern. In your case, you'd want a 6x5.5 (or 6x140mm or 6x139.7) to the same. They typically start around 1" thick, and do not require longer wheel studs. The adapter bolts to the hub using (generally included) open nuts, and has other studs already pressed on that the wheel bolts to. Be mindful of keeping the same thread pitch to avoid confusion.

OE Nissan wheels are both lug and hub centric. They use acorn-style lug nuts, which have a tapered tip to seat the wheel. However, the hubs and hub bores are the same (100mm). You can get away with staying lug centric, where only the lug nuts center things up. However, to reduce vibrations, it's recommended to get hub centric rings to fill the hub bore gaps.

Nissan, Chevy, and Toyota trucks share a 6x5.5 bolt pattern. The center bores on Toyota is usually 108mm, Chevy are smaller. Titan wheels also have a smaller bore. Chevy and Toyota use different thread pitches (not sure about Chevy, maybe 1/2"-20, but Toyota is usually 12mm x 1.5). If you're not careful on the purchase, you might buy spacers that can't fit the Nissan hub, or that require new lug nuts.

You won't find many options between 1/4" and 1". That's because it would either definitely require longer wheel studs (spacer), or will be too short to clear the internal lug nuts (adapter).

As for general safety...if torqued on correctly, having a spacer is no different than having a wheel with less backspacing. Both can introduce bump-steer, put additional stresses on the hub, and possibly introduce (or reduce) tire rubbing.

Anything I missed?

Wow thank you so much for that information! Perfect! Exactly what I was looking for.

Would you happen to recommend any one adapter over another? Links? I would like to space them out about 25-30mm or so all the way around. I understand this will introduce more stress to components, but I only drive her about 2,000 miles a year now. So it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Again thank you so much!!

No sweat.

No real recommendations...it's all about the stance you want. For the most part, all the spacers I see are pretty generic so I can't imagine one being significantly better over another, unless it's boils down to a poor milling job. These run maybe $100-$120 or so for 4 spacers, but that should include everything you need except the hub centric rings, which are optional (but a cheap way to minimize vibrations).

Here are basically the two items that seem to fit your needs:
Adapters: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251773967780
Hub-centric Rings: http://www.amazon.com/pieces-Hubcentric ... B00CFTZ7S4

The only unknown is how tall the wheel studs on that are, and if your current lug nuts are tall enough to not bottom out. But you can get a new set of lug nuts for pretty cheap on eBay or Amazon (I think I paid maybe $20 for a full set on eBay).

Well, this is the look I am going for. (Not my truck in the pics obviously, I borrowed from another member here...THANKS lemansz20 for the exact inspiration pics) Nothing crazy...she is still 2WD. But a good camping vehicle. Apparently these are 1.25" spacers/adapters w/ 2" lift.

I have the 2" lift "kit" on its way. Either using my stock 16" with my new ATs or maybe rev offset 16s, and reuse my tires. They only have like 4,000 miles on them and I really like them. Falken Wildpeak AT...nice tires...and affordable.

Yeah, that's a good look.

maybe rev offset 16s

Rev offset?

Reverse offset, also known as negative offset.

Sorry, never heard it as reverse, only pos/neg.

So another alternative (one that I'm actually pursuing myself) are Toyota Tacoma/FJ/4Runner wheels. They have less offset than ours. Aside from the wheel caps having Toyota logos (which can be replaced with Nissan logos), there are some decent looking ones, and they're pretty easy to find as take-offs on your local Craigslists. I'm particularly interested in a 17" to open up some 32"-33" tire options, but they also have about an inch less offset than my OE 16", negating the need for spacers (which I've also been contemplating). I should only need some mag-seat style lug nuts and new wheels locks to make it work and get the stance I want.

But you said the hubs are different diameter for Toyo or no?

Yep, I think they're 106mm. You'd need the hub centric rings for that because the wheels don't use acorn-style nuts to help center them, though not sure if Toyota has changed from that lug style in newer models.

On a related note, if going this route, don't buy any 05+ Nissan truck/SUV wheels...different bolt patterns (except maybe Titan/Armada?...but they usually have too small bore sizes anyway).

I'm trying to stay with stock wheels...hence the spacers.
I want 1.25" hub centric

Would these work? I already ordered the hub centric rings you linked me to above. I want 1.25", but these say 108mm CB

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... ID=EBAY-US

Yep, those should work fine for you. You shouldn't have to worry about the notes they have about trimming the wheel studs.

Found these - won't need those rings huh? They say 100mm CB

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321653315154

Even better, but a bit pricey.

It's ok. I budgeted $150-200 for them.
:-)
Thanks for your help!!

Got the spacers installed a few min ago. Looks so much better! Amazing what 1.25" can change.

bgruhn76 wrote:Got the spacers installed a few min ago. Looks so much better! Amazing what 1.25" can change.

post pics of it bgruhn!

bgruhn76 wrote:Got the spacers installed a few min ago. Looks so much better! Amazing what 1.25" can change.

post pics of it bgruhn!

Hey STARBAI, I got your PM, but it won't let me reply. I don't know if it would rub without 2" lift, as I did all of mine at the same time. I know even with 2" lift, mine rub in the front at full lock in reverse.

email me bgruhn76 at hotmail and I can shoot you some pics.