Wheel rotors loose in front!

[Amadauss1]

Went to change the brake pads on my daughters J30 1997 because she had heard a clunk on the right front passengers side and since I knew pads might be needed thought this could be the cause. Was I wrong!!!! After jacking up the car took note that after removing the calipers, I found the outside and inside rotor loose on the front passenger side of the car. Drivers side was snug and secure. I am kind of in shock the wheel did not fall off but I am thinking the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place must have been keeping the whole thing together. What would hold those things tight? I did take note the little hub inside the wheel mag was kind of off but did not think anything of it when taking off the tire. Going to do some searching on site but hoping someone might have experienced this and can give an answer. Thanks.

Ok, did some research and they do spin around like they should but in this case passenger side is all over the place and woobly.

[Gerardjg]

What do you mean by outside and inside rotor? is the rotor separated it should be one piece the rotor is one assembly. The wheel properly installed and torqued is what holds the rotor in place.

[Amadauss1]

Sorry if confusing, was in a state of panic over daughter driving car. In laymens terms, on the passengers side front the rotor which is two sided (I call it two sided because it looks like it is two pieces) for the caliper to engage the pads on either side seemed loose versus the drivers side front which seemed very snug and held its position after taking the caliper off of it. Both can spin but the passenger side was wobbly or looked like it could come off by just pulling it which I did not try. Thanks for your help.

[jdurrty]

From what I understand I think the drivers side rotor is more of the issue than the passenger side. Gerardjg is correct, it is the wheel being torqued down that should be holding the rotor tightly in place. If the rotor is snug even after the caliper and the wheel are both removed, than the rotor is most likely rusted on to the hub assembly. Once the caliper is removed the rotor should practically fall off, so from your explanation, the passenger side rotor seems normal. The "clunk" your daughter hear is more likely the control arm bushing. These liquid filled bushings are notorious for going out especially in warmer climates, I have already gone through two sets myself. Make sure these are not the culprits first.

[Gerardjg]

Download this and go to chapter BR for the brakes and Fa for the
rod bushing info

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30

[swimshark]

or ball joint could be bad. when i had the junkyard set on before i went back to the coilovers i had a clunking up front on drivers side and the ball joint was shot.

[Amadauss1]

I took it out for a drive after changing the pads and for the life of me cannot hear anything now and front seems ok. Does not mean something is not wrong and will check out the things you both suggest. On another note, while driving the car, I continue to hear a very faint clicking noise which seems to be coming out of the glove box. It clicks off and on like and I am having an issue right now with the door locks sticking and not sure if related to this. PS, avatar is my daughter when she was young.

[yodawill2000]

"I found the outside and inside rotor loose on the front passenger side of the car"

That spun my head around.

The rotor is a one piece unit with friction surfaces on either side and vented in the center.

If either side was not connected to the other that's a scary scenario.

[yodawill2000]

If the tension rod bushing is blown you will hear a clunk over bumps, or if you slam the brakes on rolling 3 or 4 MPH.

Daughter is cute as a button by the way.
Looks a lot like my grand daughter right now.

[Amadauss1]

Thank you for the nice words on the daughter and the help. That picture is when she was much younger. In college now and You should see her now. She is driving the car and that is why all the caution. I knew I was explaining the rotor thing wrong and your detail about it is right on the button. Ok, so when I take the caliper off to do brakes, can the rotor move around a little bit, and not spinning but seems to move away from the engine in direction, (I should have tried to take it off)? Or should it be in a very rigid position with the caliper similar to when the caliper is attached with the pads except for spinning in the wheel movement direction.

[Amadauss1]

Ok found the oil filter and got that changed. Took the car out and took it up to 35 and hit the brakes. No issues and stopped fairly well. No sounds. Just the ticking noise coming from the glove box which is a totally different issue either to do with the stereo I think or the power windows and door locks but not sure, just guessing. Going to take the tire off in the morning and have another look. What does scare me is I heard the clunking noise and it was just one clunk when making the noise before I changed the pads when hitting the brakes going about 5 miles an hour. Seemed to do it when turning a little bit now that I remember. But nothing now. Also have the issue of the ABS light staying on which has been doing this for about 6 months.

[yodawill2000]

The rotor is held tight by the wheel lug nuts.
Once the wheel is off and caliper unbolted the rotor should pull straight out with ease.
As far as the ABS light all I can think off is low brake fluid or the ABS relay is shot.
Its in a small black box at the rear of the engine bay on the passenger sides.
I occasionally have mine light up and the box is making a loud buzzing sound.
A light tap with a screw driver handle stops it.
Need to replace mine i suppose.

[Amadauss1]

Thank you so much for the info. I thought the rotor could pull straight off but was not sure which seems to be the case here. For some reason as a kid I watched my dad do the brakes and I seem to remember under that little hub cover in the center of the wheel a cotor pin in there to hold something in place. Am I dreaming? Also, I did take note they did show a little rust on the surface of the rotor. Have you ever taken yours off and just lightly sanded them to get them clean or what would you recommend? You hear about the rotors being grinded down when the pads become so bad they dig into them. In this case, because the car sits sometimes for extended periods as it did these last two months and then we had a bunch of rain, I would guess you could develop some rust on them. I was going to lightly use something to get that stuff off but wanted to make sure what I use is correct. Again thank you for your help.

[yodawill2000]

No worries on the rust.
If it sat for awhile that's normal.
A drive around the block with a few stops will clean it off the area where the pads contact.

[Amadauss1]

Thank you for the help.

[Nealoc187]

The rotor will be loose with the caliper removed unless it is rusted to the hub like they often are after a while of use. One of yours was fused to the hub with corrosion, the other was not. Completely normal, and nothing to worry about.

[Victor]

If after removing the caliper the rotor is hard to just pull off get two metric thread bolts of the same diameter and threads as the two threaded holes you see in the rotor. Screw them in and they will push against the metal underneath and push the frozen rotor off nice and easy. That's what the threaded holes are there for. The front and rear rotors use different size bolts.
BTW, if you turn the rotors you are supposed to put them back on in the same orientation as you took them off, assuming whoever did the last brake job had checked the runout and put them in the best orientation. The bolts will leave a little mark on the rusty metal underneath that you can use to remember where to put the disc back. Or else just use a grease pencil to mark one stud and stud hole.

[Amadauss1]

Wow, thank you very much for the help and explanation. Now I better understand what is going on. Really appreciate it.