Wheel Installation

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ADKSaad1387
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So i did some searching, didn't quite find what i was looking for.

I'm supposed to get my wheels+tires at my doorstep on friday...they will be balanced and mounted

Question is, how exactly do i install them1. Is it as easy as jacking the car up and just putting it right on?2. Is there a certain pattern i should do when i tighten the lugs? (i feel like ive seen it before but i cant find where)3. Do i need to not tighten them all the way until all five lugs are in, and then tighten them?

Those are a few questions off the top of my head. I may feel like an idiot later when i hear that its just like changing the tire when you have a flat..but i just wanna make sure im not missing anything.

Thanks!


generic808
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Cross-tighten the bolts. Tighten one side, then the opposite side, etc. I tighten mine to full tightness when jacked up, then after I lower the car I torque them to 80 ft/lbs.


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Mr. Music
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I tighten them when the car is still jacked up. I don't have a torque wrench, so I do it the ghetto way. After I lower it, I put my foot on the lug wrench, push down and tighten it until I think its OK. Then I hope it is OK and check it every once in a while.

generic808
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Mr. Music wrote:I tighten them when the car is still jacked up. I don't have a torque wrench, so I do it the ghetto way. After I lower it, I put my foot on the lug wrench, push down and tighten it until I think its OK. Then I hope it is OK and check it every once in a while.
You have to be careful when doing it up ghetto style. It's possible to strip your lug nuts, break studs or bolts, and even warp your brake rotors.

spike228
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Is there a reason why you torque it after you lower the car? I torque mine when its still jacked up (just in case the wheel hasn't exactly seated flush against the hub).

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Mr. Music
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generic808 wrote:
You have to be careful when doing it up ghetto style. It's possible to strip your lug nuts, break studs or bolts, and even warp your brake rotors.
Yeah, I know. But its not like I over do it, just a little turn of the end of the wrench and they are tight enough. Never had any problems with it, neither has my father who taught me how to do it, lol.
spike228 wrote:Is there a reason why you torque it after you lower the car? I torque mine when its still jacked up (just in case the wheel hasn't exactly seated flush against the hub).
Well, I do it because when you are torquing it down and the wheel is still up in the air, it may turn. Once its on the ground, its not going anywhere. Hand tighten it (as much as you can) when the car is still jacked up, and the back of the wheel should be flush with hub.

generic808
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spike228 wrote:Is there a reason why you torque it after you lower the car? I torque mine when its still jacked up (just in case the wheel hasn't exactly seated flush against the hub).
I tighten mine fully when jacked up, but if you've noticed, when the car is lowered, you still have a little room to play with. Next time you lower your car after your wheels were torqued, check them again and they'll still have room to reach 80 ft/lbs., or whatever you torque them to. That's just how I've done my wheels forever.

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adidas2go
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How in the world do you torque the lug nuts when the car is still in the air. The car should be in neutral, therefore your wheels would spin when you put pressure on them. You should only tighten your lug nuts until the wheel sits flush with the bearing, while the car is in the air. All your torqueing should be done with wheels on the ground

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johnny_d
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side notes, some people say don't go cheap on torque wrenches, how are Craftsman torque wrenches? they have the 70 bucks clicker type one or there's the one w/ the needle for 29 bucks then there's the digital ....and forget Snap-On cuz they're way too expensive. What are u guys using?

generic808
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Yup, that's why I tighten mine while in the air, but torque them when on the ground.

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adidas2go
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johnny_d wrote:side notes, some people say don't go cheap on torque wrenches, how are Craftsman torque wrenches? they have the 70 bucks clicker type one or there's the one w/ the needle for 29 bucks then there's the digital ....and forget Snap-On cuz they're way too expensive. What are u guys using?
The "clicker" type you refer to is much more user friendly than the needle gauge. "Clicker" types are the most comon torque wrenches and they are very reliable. Also be careful when using torque wrenchs and extenstions together. Extensions increase your torque level and will do damage to your stud, if overtightened

ADKSaad1387
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ah got it, so thats it right?cant wait to install the wheels (the right way) thanks for all your helpill post pics on Saturday hopefully

bluedragonxtl
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pic!

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johnny_d
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thanks, Blake

Cali 2 Balti G
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Whatever you do - obey the click?

I learned this the hard way - I have a Husky Torque Wrench - in the past I've used Torque wrenches that DO NOT exert pressure past the specified mark. The Husky and many other Torque wrenches only give you the audible click as your signal to stop - I kept going thinking it wasn't at the specified level yet. Ended up too tight.

Also NEVER Torque your wheel locks - I learned this the hard way too.

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dangeris
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Actually, torquing down the lug nut while the car is up on the stand is the right way to do it, according to my local wheel shop. Of course doing it this method requires one to have another person to step on the brake while doing torquing. If you torque the lugs on the ground, the chances of over torquing and breaking studs are greatly increased. Aside from that, the torque pressure is totally different if you torque the lugs while the car is jacked as opposed to the ground.You then re-torque it on the ground after you put about a 100 miles on it or so.

Cali 2 Balti G
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Are you saying that a Torque wrench exerts different levels of force depending on whether the car is on jack stands or not? That doesn't seem to make sense.

If you stop the wrench when you hear the click - you shouldn't be able to overtorque either way.

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Mr. Music
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I think he means that there is more stress on the parts with the car on the ground. Like, the weight can push out on the wheel, and the lugs don't end but being as tight as they should be? Which makes perfect sense to me, but I'm just not sure if thats what he means.

generic808
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Mr. Music wrote:I think he means that there is more stress on the parts with the car on the ground. Like, the weight can push out on the wheel, and the lugs don't end but being as tight as they should be? Which makes perfect sense to me, but I'm just not sure if thats what he means.
Yes, next time try to torque your wheels when jacked up. Then, lower the car and try to torque it at the same ft/lbs and you'll see that there still is room to tighten.

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dangeris
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generic808 wrote:
Yes, next time try to torque your wheels when jacked up. Then, lower the car and try to torque it at the same ft/lbs and you'll see that there still is room to tighten.
Exactly! I know, it didn't make sense to me at first but after he showed me the difference, it all made sense.

BTW...my wheels and lug nuts shipped yesterday so I should be getting them soon. I suppose I should order my tires next unless I'm gonna run my ac on train tracks

ADKSaad1387
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i got my wheels installed....thread is called "New 20" Kicks on the Altima"

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dangeris
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Sweet,..gonna check it out now!


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