WHeel Cylinders. Snapped bleeder, replace both or one?

[CanuckQx4]

So today while flushing and bleeding my brakes, or atleast attempting to. My bleeder screw snapped off in the wheel cylinder on my back wheel. So I need to buy a new wheel cylinder thats no big deal nothing I can do about it.

But is this a type of part to change just the one cylinder or is it recommended to swap both??

Probably wont e OEM either since there not open sundays

[Towncivilian]

Eh, I'd swap both. They're fairly cheap and they definitely don't last forever.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Can you get it out with an EZ-out?

And if it's snapped off closed, your truck is driveable.


Chuck

[CanuckQx4]

$58 for the pair of them at the only store open today.

Atleast they came with new fittings, hope my brake flush goes smoothly now!!

thanks for the advice bud

[CanuckQx4]

I didnt see your post chuck. I didnt have the tools to fix the old wheel cylinder so I just replaced them. Tried a brake fluid flush and bleed since I openned all the lines. Did the bleed in the correct order but my pedal pressure didnt improve really, I can still push my pedal pretty close to the floor. Isnt a good brake pedal supposed to be very firm to push, almost stopping your foot if you lock on the brakes??

I took the truck for a test drive around town, it stops fine, abs works etc. But the pedal pressure just isnt there. feels to weak for me.

And then I bled the brakes again after driving it (fluid level was OK) only openned each bleeder for a moment with steady flow with no bubbles coming out so Im unsure if theres a way to tell if theres air.

[Towncivilian]

My pedal didn't feel different after a brake flush either. It does feel somewhat firmer (more "bite") after a front brake job. You can try adjusting the brake pedal freeplay to get rid of any slack in the pedal, but that probably won't do much. The steps can be found in the BR section of the FSM if I recall correctly.

[CanuckQx4]

Yeah I think Ive got ebay rotors and ceramic pads on the front right now, the thing that scares me about trying a front brake job again is the wheels bearings, greasing them properly to last. The truck stops good though,

I just wish the pedal was firmer.

[Towncivilian]

Greasing is your biggest worry with the wheel bearings? What's so difficult about that? Use a high quality synthetic grease and you should be fine. I had more trouble with getting the wheel bearing preload correct since the 2-prong wheel bearing socket is a unicorn that can't be found anywhere.

I also wish for a firmer pedal, but I suppose the drums in the back account for most of the soft pedal.

[CanuckQx4]

I wish you could buy a rotor with a wheel bearing pre packed and installed. Packing them is a guessing game to me if its done properly.

If you want to change front rotors on a 2wd do you just need to buy a wheel bearing and rotor? Is there a part number for the wheel bearing? This front wheel assembly is a myth to me. Dont really know what going on in there

[Towncivilian]

You don't need to replace the bearings when you replace rotors as long as they're in good condition. I reused both inner and outer bearings, replacing only the grease obviously (I used Amsoil Synthetic grease) and the inner bearing seal.

Spammer nuked.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Your soft pedal may be air in the master cylinder. And you pumped until the fluid ran clear and then some, right?

Chuck

[TiminTampa]

The research I've done on our Paqthfinders is if you still have a soft brake pedal and all the air is out of the lines it it due to the fact that we have rubber hose brake lines and can be fixed to switching to something like stainless steel brake lines I haven't swapped my brake lines so I'm not 100% sure this would fix the problem.

[CanuckQx4]

I do have stainless steel lines. I only put one small bottle of brake fluid through the system while bleeding it. Maybe I should flush it more, but each wheels stopped spitting bubbles, so I did the bleed process twice and everything seemed good

Only thing I can think of is that the MC did go dry, not while bleeding though, only because I had all the lines disconnected to install the new brake lines and wheel cylinders, so i just topped it up with new fluid before starting bleeding. Air wouldnt get in that way would it?

[Joe99qx4]

On my Q, I had to bleed this thing in the back of the car, near the rear axle..all the air was trapped there. it was some type of load sensing valve that connected to the brake lines.

[Towncivilian]

That would be the load sensing valve, yes. That is only present on certain years of 4WD Pathfinders; if CanuckQx4's 2001 is 4WD it will have an LSV.