Md is exactly right, that's not a great job to attempt with any sort of hammer. Have a machine shop or a parts store with a press push them in straight.
I just noticed what appears to be a long, gouge-like dent in the sidewall of where the race gets pressed in. I can't tell for sure. I don't see it in the other picture. If that is a dent caused by the beating you gave it, that hub may need more repair work that just removing the small seat protrusions I saw at first glance.Alibireason wrote: ↑Sat Mar 27, 2021 6:09 pmFrom the pics, did I do irreversible damage to the hub by failing to install the race properly?
Spindles are rarely the same diameter in and out, the OD at the base (inner bearing) is almost always larger than the tip (outer bearing). You're quite right about nicks and gouges, if there are any and that's the problem, they should be filed flat. This looks like more than a deformation problem, since both bearings are stopping far short of where they should and not just the inner bearing. That implies a problem with the bearing ID's.DenisMcG wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 3:42 amI good be wrong, but the spindle should be the same diameter from front to back. If the bearing went on that far, it is likely that there is a burr or nick that is not allowing it to go any further. Pull the bearing and check the spindle for an deformations. If there are, file them down and try reinstalling the bearing.
Don't guess on any of this. The OD of the races and the seal fit well but the ID you need is critical also. The ID on the bearings appear to be too small. There is no telling if the taper angle is correct either. Since the taper bearings are matched to the races, there is no guarantee that a proper bearing replacement will fit the taper angle of the races you currently have installed. If the ID of the seal fits snugly over the step on the king pin then those seals may be correct but personally I wouldn't trust it if Timken provided part numbers that do not fit your Pathfinder in the first place. Sad to say, but as for the bearing sets, you should start over with new ones and remove the races you purchased. I bought OEM replacements for my '02 so I was absolutely assured of a proper fit and would never have to concern myself with the long term durability of the product.Alibireason wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 8:19 pmOk thank you. I'm guessing I have the correct seal because it fit well, and the races fit according to the machinist. But the bearings are the ones I need to get the correct size? I assume ID is internal diameter, right? The bearings fit the races well, but the internal diameter is not the correct size? So I need bearings that have a bigger ID?
Did you purchase straight from the dealership? And do you recall appx how much you spent?I bought OEM replacements for my '02 so I was absolutely assured of a proper fit and would never have to concern myself with the long term durability of the product.
I bought my grease seals from my local dealership for about $14.50 each. It just took me a bit to realize, I did not actually replace my bearings when I last repacked the bearings I have. I just replaced the seals. My bearings were new and/or freshly repacked when I bought my used '02 from Nissan 7 or 8 years ago. My bearings are still in good shape. When the time comes, purchasing from a lower than dealership cost reseller like NissanPartsDeal.com will save you some change. Nevertheless, these are high priced OEM bearings.Alibireason wrote: ↑Tue Mar 30, 2021 9:22 amWhew thank you. I looked up the bearings on Nissan Parts USA and found them for $70 and $80 each. I didn't see the races or seals but I'm going to head to my local NIssan dealership to see what they have.
Did you purchase straight from the dealership? And do you recall appx how much you spent?I bought OEM replacements for my '02 so I was absolutely assured of a proper fit and would never have to concern myself with the long term durability of the product.
I left the dealership today having ordered the bearings/races as sets and the seals for $300 + tax and they should be here by tomorrow morning which is great because my car has been on jack stands for the last few days. The quotes she had were list price/net price blah blah...she worked some magic for me and got me the bearings/races for $75/$65/and $12 times 2 for both sides. I compared to nissan parts deal and they were a little higher but worth it to have them here by tomorrow with zero shipping fees. They just better effin' fit!Nevertheless, these are high priced OEM bearings.
Yep, dings are a problem as McG pointed out earlier. Don't use sandpaper or emory, invisible grit will wind up everywhere. Use a fine-toothed file.Alibireason wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 2:58 pmThen I looked and saw right around that same spot there was an indent on the spindle of the steering knuckle (see pic). My thinking is that indent is catching the bearing unless it is in just the right spot.
Would this be a moment to sand down the edges or no?
Small thread imperfections can be ignored as long as the nut goes on smoothly. For major imperfections, again, don't use sandpaper or emory. Use a thread-chaser to restore the damaged sections and then clean with a wire brush.Alibireason wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 2:58 pmOk then I tried just screwing on the locking nut and it screwed on the entire length of the threads, which I believe tells me that the threads are not stripped, or it would have stopped at some point. Then I took a TINY flathead screwdriver and started running it inside the threads and noticed very small burrs (see bad pic, doesn't really show burrs, but I could see where it felt rough)...it would go from smooth to rough from feel, and only at the base of the threads. Would the threads be something to smooth down with sand paper, guessing that the uneven threads are what is stopping the bearing from sliding on? Or would that destroy the threads and render them unusable?
If the spindle is cross-pollenated, it's entirely possible that the 4WD uses the same inner bearing but a different outer from the 2WD. Check NissanPartsDeal without entering a VIN, if they show different parts for the different versions then chances are it's a mismatch.Alibireason wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 2:58 pmI found a ad ebay ad for a steering knuckle for a 1998 Pathfinder that is 2x4 (see pic) which the knuckle/spindle appears to NOT be tapered, just flat. My 4x4 98 has a tapered knuckle (see pic). The parts diagram NIssan printed for me shows the bearings I ordered are for 4x4. I just can't wrap my head around why the smaller (outer) bearing won't go any further past the threads to a point where I can get the locking nut to even start threading.
I checked NPD and it showed the outer one I bought...40215-50W00, but it also showed 40215-2S600, but it says they both fit my car when I tried "check vehicle fit." There was also the choice of CA or FED or both for fit. There were no diameter measurements available or I could have checked those numbers.if they show different parts for the different versions then chances are it's a mismatch.
Yah, Nissan rarely posts specifications for things like that. But if it showed 2 different p/n's available, chances are your spindle (whatever it may be) wants the other one.Alibireason wrote: ↑Wed Mar 31, 2021 5:04 pmI checked NPD and it showed the outer one I bought...40215-50W00, but it also showed 40215-2S600, but it says they both fit my car when I tried "check vehicle fit." There was also the choice of CA or FED or both for fit. There were no diameter measurements available or I could have checked those numbers.