Whats wrong with this picture??

[ripracer]

I got this car a little over a month ago, it was falling on it's face around 4k, a slipping clutch, and a rough idle that was boucing up and down after warm up. I fixed the stutter (walbro pump & fpr) and installed a new clutch and JGY flywheel. Now its on to the idle problem a guy on these boards was trying to help me, but we decided to let everyone see.

Things I have tried:1. 2 Different MAFs cleaned2. Boost Leak Test3. 2 Different IACV/ACC solenoids cleaned (backside of manifold)4. Coolant Temp Sensor (thought what the heck 15 bucks)5. Clocking the TPS

During the clutch install my step-dad (mechanic) noticed some grounds not hooked up one was just the strap that connects to the manifold and the other was back by the igniter chip. The car has seemed to be trying to fix itself lately, by that I mean when I pull up to stop lights instead of the idle surging it goes up to 1800 and stays. Hope someone can help.Am I missing a wiring here? Others have 3, you can see I cut down in the harness I didn't find one, maybe I should go further, and I accidentally cut that wire and used a connector for now.Where does this vacuum line go? Can it just stay blocked off?To clarrify which sensor is this IACV or the AAC?

I have tons of pictures and multimeter and have been trying to read the FSM to see what wires I could check continuity, but the FSM is huge and I dont know where to start. Here are a couple videos of whats going on:StartUphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtB1m1mc7fYIdle ... pFZZH3PBi8

[Carl H]

idle switch isnt engaged, hence why it wont idle correctly and feels 'terrible'.

[ripracer]

Let me just first say that you are like a God among the rb20 community. Seems like you always have the answers.

So how do I go about fixing that?

[Carl H]

a god i am not...as for the tps, see where the 2 wires go on to the tps body, get a continuity tester and test across those 2 pins while tuning the tps, you should find a point of engagement and at that point lock it down and/or try to set it so that it breaks when you open the TB a little.

[ripracer]

I tried setting the tps but the best I can get is a smooth idle around 1900. Should the screw on the AAC be nearly all the way in?

[Carl H]

has the tach been converted for use with the rb?if not its going to read high...just a thought.

[Cpt_Impossible]

The sensor in your last pic, have you popped it apart and checked to see that the spring is connected properly. They are prone to slipping out of place causing a high idle.

[firstwizardshawn]

unplug the one on the second picture and it should smooth out. mine done the same thing we unplugged it and it worked fine! plus check and see if the mafs is wired correctly because mine was not that would also help your 4k problem. just a couple things to think about there! wow now that was not so hard to try and help someone hmmmmm!

[OKRB20DET]

did i just hear a COW in the background on that video?

[Cpt_Impossible]

Seriously, sounds just liek my car when the internal spring on that sensor in your last pick slipped off the peg inside. Takes like 5 mins once its out. Also probably could use some cleaning anyway.

[ripracer]

Fixed it today, it was that spring had slipped off that peg inside the IACV if thats what sensor is in the last picture. So yeah now my car pulls, idles normal, and doesn't have a slipping clutch. Next thing is clean up the messy wiring and in the past couple days I have noticed its not holding 10 psi like it use to, so time to do a leak test.

This is how a I feel right now -->